How-To: Install TOM’S LED Tail Lights on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your TOM’S Tail Lights directly from us HERE

First Step, make sure you have the LED relay and the 2 rear tails and that everything is in good condition. Yes? Then proceed 

I installed the LED flasher first, but you could do this at anytime.

Open the driver side door, pop off the side access panel, it pops off easily from the bottom.


We need to take off the lower dash panel, so we will need to remove the 2 screws holding it to the dash.

Now you can take off the lower dash panel, which should pop right out with light force

I did not remove any of the electrical connectors as changing out the relay/flasher is a quick job.

The relay is located just to the left of the steering column, but is a bit tricky to access due to the location.

I did not take a picture of this, but I had to insert a very small flat head screwdriver to release the relay from the white plastic clip holding it to the dash beam. Once the relay is free from the clip, you have a bit more room to change it out.

The new LED relay is a direct plug and play and will even attach to the dash beam just like stock.


Plug the new relay in, attach it back to the white clip, and reinstall the lower dash panel and access panel.

Moving on to the Tail Lights, we will need to first remove the trunk floor liner, and the center plastic section which is held on by 3 black plastic clips.

Pop all 3 clips out and remove the center plastic section.


Now we can remove the driver side trunk panel. There should be 5 clips total and the trunk popper switch.

 






The passenger side panel should also have 5 clips total to remove





With the trunk liners removed we now have access to the tail light harness and nuts.

I popped the white harness holders off the stud with my flat head, there will be 1 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. You could also use a pick to lift up the clip holding the zip-tie

Unplug the main harness from the tail lights

Now use your 8mm socket to remove the 4 nuts on each taillight

With all 4 nuts removed and the harness unplugged, carefully remove the tail lights.

 

Carefully put the new tail light back in, making sure everything is aligned correctly.

Install all 4 nuts on the new tail light and plug in the harness. Check to make sure the lights are functioning properly.

*PLEASE NOTE* We had to re-pin our factory harness connection due to the difference in JDM Vs. USDM cars, so here is a brief description of how to re-pin the harness in if your car requires it.

On the harness plug itself, there will be a plastic tab on the top, use a small flat head or dental pick to lift it up and away from the plug.

 

Always take a picture of the wires for reference

I was not able to take a non-blurry picture of the pins and the small plastic clips inside the plug that hold the pins in, but using your dental pick you will want to essentially push the metal pin down, slide the pick towards the back of the plug, and this should also lift the plastic clip up, freeing the pin to be slid out from the back.


The end result, here is the proper wire configuration for the driver side taillight.

And the passenger side tail light’s correct wiring

Once you confirm the tail lights are working to your liking, go ahead and secure the pins back into the plugs, and snap down the small plastic tab we removed earlier. Button everything back up and go enjoy your new tail lights!!!

Before:

Thanks,

Rick

How-To: Install cp-e XcelNANO Intake on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this intake directly from us HERE

 

 

Description:

“NANO” is a prefix for 10-9 (one-billionth) or something really, really small. They felt this name was fitting because their new intake is a miniaturized version of their popular Xcel™ cold air intake. They have basically trimmed all of the non-critical elements from the cold air intake. The beauty of this product is that it is so elegantly simple. It features their ultra-precise CNC machined aluminum mass air meter housing. The computer controlled machining process ensures that the housings have the same diameter for the most accurate fuel trimming. They of course also include an aluminum stock-style airflow straightener which greatly improves mass air sensor precision. To finish the package, you get a reusable oiled filter

Details:
Part #: CPE MMS3XNAISB
Brand: CP-E
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Filter Color: White
Filter Element Type: Wet
Filter Material: Cotton
Filter Reusable: Yes
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Aluminum
Tuning Required: Yes

Another great product from CP-E, top quality packaging and manufacturing/.





The install on this is pretty easy. You are going to remove the factory airbox and MAF housing and replace with the CP-E parts. You’ll need a basic set of tools for the install, the majority of what you need consists of the following:

Start off with removing the cover over the factory intercooler.

Remove the MAF plug.

Disconnect the factory breather hose by pinching the blue clip on both sides and pulling the hose up.

Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the factory airbox down with your 10mm socket and wrench.

Using your phillips head screwdriver loosen up the post maf hose clamp.


Remove the factory airbox and maf housing.

Using your 10mm remove both of these gold nuts on the battery tray bracket.

Install the intake support bracket.







Loosen the clamp holding the post maf hose to the turbo inlet and remove.


Grab your new post maf hose from the CP-E kit and it install it with the provided clamp.


Remove the blue clip from the factory hose and install it onto your CP-E MAF housing. Install one of the included clamp and install the MAF housing into the post maf hose while also plugging the MAF sensor back in.






Using a supplied clamp install that onto your CP-E filter and install onto the MAF housing.
If you purchased the Synoil kit don’t forget you need to oil the filter because it does not come pre-oiled from CP-E.



Now download the appropriate map from Cobbs website to your Accessport and reflash the cars ECU prior to driving and you are done .

Thanks,
Tanner

How-To: Install COBB Tuning Shift Weight on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Shift Weight directly from us HERE

 

Description:

For those seeking improved shift response and to ensure the transmission stays in gear during aggressive driving, they have enhanced the shifting mechanism with COBB’s CAD designed Shift Weight. Reducing the weight of the shifting system by over 0.66 lbs has improved shift speeds and the overall feel of shifting the Mazdaspeed2/6.

The specific size and shape of the CNC machined Shifter Weight make it extremely easy to install and also adds clearance for front-mounted intercoolers and cold-air intakes that pass through that area of the engine bay 

Details:
Part #: COB 271300
Brand: COBB Tuning
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Material: Steel

This is how you will receive your package, nicely packaged from Cobb.


The install on this is pretty simple. You are going to remove the factory airbox and MAF housing and this will give you direct access to the factory shift weight.




Be careful removing this clip holding the MAF sensor wiring, it is fairly fragile.

Once the MAF housing and airbox are removed you can see there are 2 12mm bolts holding the factory weight in place. You are going to remove these and reuse them with the Cobb.

Tighten the 2 12mm bolts down to 15ft/lbs with your torque wrench, reinstall everything and you are done!

Thanks,
Tanner

How-To: Install Vortech Supercharger on 2013+ Scion FRS/Subaru BRZ

Purchase this Supercharger directly from us HERE

 

First and foremost, always inspect your kit to make sure you will have everything you need and that everything is in good condition. Vortech’s instructions will give you a complete breakdown of every part, however the instructions were fairly vague, so we hope this install writeup will help anyone who wants to install their own Vortech Supercharger kit on their BRZ or FR-S.

We did not do everything by the book step-by-step, so please keep that in mind if our instructions differ slightly from the Vortech install manual. Also these instructions will be specific for the BRZ, as the FR-S will differ slightly.

Vortech wants you to flash the ECU as the very first step, that way if your ECU is not compatible, you can get it taken care of before you jump into the install.

First we wanted to get the car ready to be worked on, so that means removing the under tray, and front bumper, please note we did not remove the passenger side headlight until later in the install, but you could also do that along with the front bumper.
Remove the front clips holding the fender liner to the bumper, remove the corner lights, and unplug the corner lights as well as the DRL’s

Next remove the clips and bolts on the upper portion of the bumper.


Make sure you get all of the underpanel clips and bolts out, including those on the fender liner.

The bumper will be ready for removal. It helps to have someone helping you remove the bumper to avoid any scratches.

Remove the factory air box and snorkel. These should come out easily with a 10mm wrench and flat head screwdriver for the clamps.


Make sure to unplug your MAF sensor.

Also remove the PCV valve from the intake

Remove the Sound chamber/tube bracket

Now we will remove the tube itself down on the passenger side frame rail

Use the supplied rubber cap to cap off the sound tube

Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner on the passenger side of the engine bay
Remove the alternator as we will need to grind down the OEM bracket and install the supplied spacer/bracket

Make sure to remove the clip holding the wiring harness down

File down the top side of the bracket. This is soft aluminum, so even a bastard file will make quick work of it.

Install the supplied alternator spacer/bracket in the orientation shown.

Make sure to tighten the supplied long bolt/nut running through the bracket

Remove the lower bolts on the A/C compressor

We will be using a new bracket which will be in 2 pieces. Pre-assemble as shown and tighten down the bolt that holds the extension tube to the bracket

This is where the bracket will be going.

Install the assembled bracket to the lower portion of the A/C compressor

Remove the splined idler pulley just below the alternator. Set off to the side as we will re-install this

Remove the smooth idler below the A/C compressor. Set off to the side as we will re-install this.

Remove the smooth idler between the A/C compressor and the alternator, we will be replacing this with a supplied idler.

Install the smooth idler with supplied hardware

Reinstall the splined idler and smooth idler. Fit the extension tubes with the longer supplied bolts. Do not tighten the bolts yet as they will have to come back out anyway.

Use the Vortech manual’s directions to loosely route the new serpentine belt .

It will look something like this.

Using a friend, support the Supercharge assembly and thread the extended bolts into the extension tubes, through the idlers and into the block. This is quite tricky as you need everything to be supported and lined up correctly. *note we found it easiest to do the passenger side first, and then the driver side.

Once you get the threads started, tighten down the bolts. *note, we recommend keeping these finger tight as you may have to loosen them a bit to get clearance when routing the belt.

Use the supplied hardware to secure the Supercharger to the A/C compressor bracket we installed previously. Again, we recommend keeping this finger tight for now.

Find the supplied upper alternator bracket, first secure it to the super charger assembly.

Then attach it to the new alternator bracket/riser using the supplied hardware.

The belt is a bit of a tight fit between the supercharger pulley and the A/C compressor. Keeping all the bolts finger tight on the super charger assembly will allow you to get a bit more clearance when routing the belt. * note, have a friend operate the tensioner while you route the belt.

I tried to snap some decent pictures of the belt routing, but it was difficult to do with the Supercharger assembly in the way.


Now we can more onto the smaller supercharger support brackets. We will need to remove the bolts on the passenger side head, located next to the cam/avcs covers.

New supplied bracket/hardware all laid out

When installing, make sure the thicker washer is behind the support bracket.

Now install the Air/box support bracket on the driver side in this orientation.

Since we have the Prova hood dampers, we did not install the supplied hood prop support bracket.

The Alternator cover can go back on without modification

If you want to re-use your factory A/C compressor cover, you will need to modify it. Go slow with this to make sure you do not remove too much material. Remember measure twice cut once saying? Well ours was measure 8-10 times, and cut about 5 times 

Vortech offers the washer reservoir as your stock one will not work with the intercooler piping. You will need to remove the factory reservoir. First I disconnected the harness clips from the reservoir.



Next unplug the main connector to the washer motor.

Now free the filler neck from the car.

Now you can unbolt the reservoir from the car.


We drained our washer fluid into a clean bucket so we could re-use it.

Now we can get the supplied reservoir setup. First insert the rubber grommet into the top opening of the reservoir.

Insert the metal filler tube into the new reservoir.

Cut the OEM filler neck down to size, I used the OEM markings to make it easy.

Install the rubber hose onto the cut filler neck.

Install the OEM pump which will be surrounded by the supplied screw on cap. Note* make sure the rubber gasket is centered, and test the reservoir before install it onto the car.

Now install the supplied brackets on both sides of the reservoir. *Note, I would have the bolt/nut end of the hardware facing towards the front of the car for better fender liner fitment.

Mount the reservoir onto the car. *note I would wait to install the filler neck until you get the charge pipes installed.

At any point in time you can modify the OEM under tray, you will drill or file about 1/8 inch. We used a round file as it the plastic is pretty soft. You will have to do this for proper fitment once everything goes back together.

Now we wanted to modify our 2 small plastic air ducts that are on the sides of the radiator, so first we need to pop off the clips.

Vortech supplies templates, which we cut out to make for a good fit inside the ducts.

We used a hole saw as a start, thinking that the cleaner we could make these, the better.

We ended up having to trim more off to clear the piping, so here is a picture of them modified and back on the car with the intercooler piping.


We are almost ready to install the intercooler and charge pipes, but first we must re-locate the factory horn.

Once removed, you will want to flatten out the tabs for re-location.

The Vortech instructions were un-clear where to re-mount the horn, so we found this to be a suitable location.

Now we can prepare the Intercooler for install. First install the supplied brackets, but do not tighten all the way as you will want to move them around to get the intercooler to sit where you would like it.

Now test fit the intercooler and make sure to mark where you want to drill into the bumper beam.

Now Drill baby drill! The bumper beam is pretty soft so it is not too bad to drill.

Note* From here on out the pictures were a bit hit and miss as we had a few people jump in to help out, but I will do my best to explain.

With the Intercooler mounted and secure, we will want to move onto the piping. With any piping, I always make sure that they are free from any debris.

Next we will want to remove the factory MAF from the intake and install it on the passenger side charge pipe. *note, our kit included the plug and play extension harness, which was ran and hidden well before I was able to snap a picture of it.


Install the charge pipe that goes directly to the throttle body. *note there is a supplied bracket you will install just right of the dip stick. You can see the bracket and the rubber isolater in this picture just right of the dip-stick.

To install the passenger side charge pipe on our BRZ we had to remove the passenger side headlight. This is held on by a few bolts and clips and was really easy to remove. *note, for all of the charge pipes, we found it easiest to slide the coupler completely on the charge pipe, and then once the pipes are in place, slide the couple down onto the other charge pipe and secure with clamps.

Once the charge pipe is in place, we can re-install the headlight.

Now move on to the Driver side. Use the short elbow coming right off the intercooler.

Next will be the compressor discharge hose coming off of the supercharger. This will have the port for the blow off valve on it.


Make sure to oil your Blow Off Valve filter, install the hose and clamps and secure it to the intercooler pipe. *note, with the supplied oil/packet, it was difficult not to over-oil the filter, so do your best to use a minimal amount of oil. Expect some dripping from the filter on initial startup.

We can now install the filler neck on the washer reservoir. Use the supplied spacer and mount it just behind the driver side headlight. Make sure to secure the clamps.


Next we removed the factory MAP sensor and install the included Omni sensor in its place.


Next is the air box. Use the supplied bracket on the passenger side as shown here.


The coupler was a bit tricky due to the spacer limitations, but it should go on with a bit of patience. Make sure to hook back up the PCV lines using the supplied hoses and fittings.


The factory snorkel will hook up to the Vortech Air box just like the stock air box.

Next we installed the brass T-fitting in the brake booster line after the factory check valve. *Note it was very late, we were tired and we regret putting it here as you can clearly see the fitting when the hood is open. It would be much cleaner mounted closer to the engine.

Run the vacuum line to the blow off valve. We used a T fitting and ran a line to our boost gauge as well.

Place the factory side air ducts back into place and measure if you need to cut any more for clearance on the pipes. We had to trim quite a bit of plastic off, but just go slow to get it as clean as possible.


There are a few support brackets which attach to the charge pipe. 2 on the lower air ducts(not pictured) and 1 on the air box bracket on the driver side. You can secure the charge pipes to the brackets using the supplied clamps.

Check the oil in the Super charger to make sure it is full, and add any oil if needed. Also make sure to switch out the shipping plug to the vented plug before you start the car.

Go through and double check all of your bolts, clamps, connections and fitment before you start the car.

I would recommend starting the car before you install the bumper to make sure you do not have any leaks, or anything else that would require work to the car.

Once you confirm everything looks good and is secure, re-install the front bumper and undertray. *note, our coolant reservoir was a tight fit between the bumper and the fender liner, do your best to make sure it fits correctly.

Start up the car, check for any leaks, let the blow off valve filter drain any excess oil, and then go for a drive!

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

Rick

How-To: Install Rally Armor Mudflaps on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase these mud flaps directly from us HERE

This install was done on the floor with very minimal tools needed, so here’s a list of what we used:

1) Lug wrench (to pull the rear wheels off, the fronts stay on)
2) Flat tip screw driver
3) Phillips screw driver
4) T30 torx bit
5) Jack with jack stands.

Ok, so on to the install!

First things first, let’s take a look at just what comes in the package. Looks like some really nice mudflaps, install directions, and associated installation hardware.

Looks like there’s a LOT of hardware, but it’s not all that bad.

Ok, so the first step is to take the front fender liner retainer clips out, we’ll be removing the rear lower three retainer clips, just get a flat tip screw driver to pry the middle out and the whole clip will pull out of the fender

Now that those are out, pull the fender liner back and throw three of the round edge clips on these so the screws can thread into them:

Take the metal bracket and place it on the logo side of the mudflap and place it on the fender, you can see here that you will need one of the round edge clips on the lower inside hole of the metal bracket and use the washer and short screw to run through this location to help support the flap.

Now we can put the mudflap in place loosely for adjustment. Now you’ll want the mudflap parallel with the ground when installed so do your best to get it lined up before tightening down. Don’t forget the washers behind the screws used here

We can tighten them up once everything is all lined up and ready to go.

So, that’s it for the front, they look pretty good. Decent match to the wheels and seem to fit perfectly!

Now on to the back. These were just a bit more difficult than the front. I would say they took around twice as long to install than the fronts did. First thing you’ll want to do is get the back of the car in the air and put proper jack stands under to support it. Behind the wheel you will want to take the two t30 torx fasteners out. There is another hole that we have to make shown by the arrow in the image below. I just used a drill to open up a hole, make sure you make the hole big enough you have room to run the screw through and properly line up with the threads.

Take the two factory screw seats off shown here in the second picture you can see the hole where you need to place one of the three round edge clips that will be hidden behind the cover prior to drilling it out. After pulling the stock clips off, place three of the round edge clips in place

We can now mock up the mudflaps. You’ll want to run the long screw through with the metal support bracket on the label side, don’t forget the washers. Then you’ll need to place one of the long spacers and one of the shorter spacers between the mudflap and the mounting hole.

Now we can loosely place the mudflap to line it up before screwing it down

Now that we have it lined up, let’s screw it down! The push clips can go in now as well, the thin clip goes to the outside and clips into the support bracket, then the thick clip goes on the inside, shown here.

Ok, so that’s the rear, the rear flaps are a little bit wider than the fronts (which is preferred) and they look pretty good. What do you think?

The main reason we installed these flaps is to find out of they will help reduce the amount of debris and dust we get on the rear of the car. As you guys all know these little hatchbacks have a tendency to get a LOT of debris on the rear bumper and all over the back of the car. We will take some time and drive the car around, get some miles on it (we have a show in Nevada this weekend) and report back with our findings.

On another note, these things look a lot better than expected. They fit very well and the grey color accents the rest of the car nicely. Thanks for reading, hopefully this will help you out if you are going to install them on your car.

Thanks
Corby
RallySportDirect.com

How-To: Install cp-e Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this Rear Motor Mount directly from us HERE

 

First, let’s give you the rundown about the mount itself.

Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Color: Black
Durometer: 75A
Material: Aluminum

It is well known that the stock rear motor mount on the MS3 is a weak link and cp-e™ has chosen to think outside the box on this and come up with a completely new design. To do this cp-e™ carefully studied the layout of the stock MS3 Engine Mounts. While designing the side engine mounts it was determined that a better design could be achieved on the rear mount as well.

The way the Mazda engine mount system works is that the two side mounts provide a rotational mounting point, if just these two mounts are installed without a lower engine mount the bottom of the engine is free to swing like a pendulum. Now if you take the stock engine mount and put it in place with its horizontally mounted bushing and you apply some power, it will stop the engine from swinging but you are now stressing the bushing in two directions. These types of bushing are not really meant for this.

So cp-e™ came up with a way to stress the bushing in only one direction, by remaking both sides of the engine mount cp-e™ was able to mount the bushing vertically so now the pendulum affect of the engine is stretching or pushing in only one direction. This also increases the durability of the engine mount substantially.

To accomplish this two blocks of aluminum, starting at 15.81 lbs are slowly whittled down over the course of a couple of hours in our CNC machine to a final weight of 3.53 lbs. This process takes a lot of time but was necessary to give our customers what they want.

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 19mm, 17mm

Wrenches: 19mm

Torque Wrench

Jack, Jack stands, or lift


This is how your mount will come packaged. I am really impressed with CP-E and their attention to detail. Their product packaging is an obvious example of this. You know when a company takes time to package their products this well they really care about what’s inside.



When you pull everything out of the box you will be in awe at how badass this mount is. Everyone here was thoroughly impressed when I was opening ours up for the install. CP-E includes awesome color instructions, hardware, a sticker, thank you card and they even have an employee check off each part that goes in the box and initials. I am very impressed with their attention to detail. No one likes being in the middle of a project to find out not everything was included in the package. You won’t have to worry about that with CP-E.


This install is very easy and anyone can do it in less than an hour if you include time to get the wheel ramps or jack stands out and the car up on those.
Pull out your sockets, ratchet wrench and box end wrench.

Here is a shot of the stock mount before being uninstalled. Very easy to access all the bolts and no need to worry about supporting the engine when removing this.
Go ahead and pull out the 3 19mm bolts holding the mount to the transmission and the 2 17mm bolts that are left. Set your stock mount in a dark corner of your garage because you will never want to install it after the new ones in.

Prep the new mount by taking the long bolt and putting a washer on it before inserting it through the CP-E mounts.

This part is pretty self explanatory but slide the rear portion of the mount into the crossmember.

Go ahead and toss 1 of the 17mm bolts you just pulled out of the stock unit back in and set the left over one with your factory mount. Install all 3 19mm bolts back into the front portion attaching the mount to the transmission.
The tolerances are very tight and didn’t see starting with one bolt versus the other to really matter but you might have to put a little pressure up on the engine to line up a few of the holes before the bolts will go in.

Ensure you take the 2nd washer CP-E includes and put it over the end of the bolt before installing the lock washer and bolt.

Snug up all the bolts.

Grab your torque wrench and set it to 85ft/lbs and torque all 5 bolts down. You will need to grab your 19mm wrench and hold the head side of the bolt while you have the torque wrench on the nut side to get it to 85ft/lbs.

Here is the finished product. This mount looks amazing on the car!

I was a little worried about how much noise and vibration I would get inside the car with this mount but I am very impressed. There is very little at all. Getting in the car and starting it up for the first time with the new mount you can feel the engine starting which I love and then it purrs like a kitten. You will get a little vibration in your rear view mirror but nothing to compared to when I have the stereo turned up.
Pulling out of our shop I could immediately feel a difference. I had urethane inserts in the stock rear motor mount previously which were nice but this CP-E Stage 2 setup is completely different. Steering and gear shift feedback is awesome, much more precise and no jerky 1st gear starts because the engine is rocking with this thing. Previously shifting into 2nd or 4th was a little notchy with the stock mount and inserts but every shift now is super smooth and exact.
This is definitely one if not the first upgrade I would recommend on these cars without a doubt. Very easy installation and for the price you won’t regret how much better your car drives.

Enjoy this comparison video:

 

Thanks,

Tanner

How-To: Install Tein EDFC Active on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase the EDFC Active Kit directly from us HERE

Parts we used to install these on our Street Flex Coilovers:

EDK04-P8021 – Tein EDFC Active Controller Kit
EDK05-12140 – Tein EDFC Motor Kit M12-M14

*Optional*

EDK07-P8022 – Tein EDFC Active GPS Kit
EDK06-K4474 – Tein EDFC Strut Kit

 

Before I get started I want everyone to know that there will be many different ways you can wire this in. I found this method worked really well for me, but you may install it in a different way.

First let’s make sure we have everything we need in the package. Does it all look complete and in good condition? Yep! Let’s get cracking!


I decided to start with the EDFC motors as they are a breeze to install, and will be the same process on all 4 corners.

First we remove the rubber boot on top of the click wheel.


Now use the supplied wrench to remove the click wheel itself to expose the inner screw.


You can either use the click wheel itself or an allen key to remove the inner screw from the damper.

Take the new supplied inner screw and give it a dab of grease and insert it into the top of the damper and spin it down until it is flush with the top of the damper.



Use a small amount of the supplied thread locker around the male damper rod.

Insert the EDFC motor down into the new small screw(without threading the motor onto the shaft) and make 3 full rotations of the motor using a flat head screwdriver, this will allow for the proper clearance of the EDFC motor and the small screw to prevent binding when the motor is maxed out in either direction.

Once you confirm a full 3 rotations, you can thread the motor down onto the damper. Remember the front and rear motors will be a different size, so make sure you check before proceeding.
You will want to spin the motor down onto the damper until it stops, then make sure it is nice and snug.

Test the motor by spinning it using a flat head screwdriver. You want to make sure there is no binding and that the motor spins freely. If you do experience resistance, remove the motor, check for any damage, and repeat the steps above.
The process will be identical for all 4 corners, but it should go much quicker now that you have some experience under your belt.

With the wiring and placement of the Controller, Drivers, and wiring looms, you may install it different than I have, but I found this to be fairly simple and clean. *Note, make sure you write down the Serial Number on the Drivers in the note section in the instruction manual, as you will need to reference this when programming the control unit.
With the Tein EDFC Active kit, you will receive the 2 Wireless Drivers, and the Control Unit which all need a power (12V accessory) and a Ground. After searching in the trunk and the engine bay, I deiced to hook all 3 up to the 12V Accessory Plug in the center console.

Tein provides plenty of wire to run it up to the engine bay and to the back of the car, so I decided to mount the rear driver in the Styrofoam just behind the rear passenger seat. I did have to trim some of the foam out, but the end result looked fantastic and 100% hidden with the interior in the car.


I was able to run the power wire under the rear seat, to the power source at the center console. I grounded it using the control unit located in the driver side of the trunk.


For the front Driver, I located it on the driver side firewall just behind the fender and ran a single extension harness up along the plastic cowl and to the passenger side damper. I was able to run the power wire through the firewall grommet, under the foot well carpet and to the power source in the center console. I used the factory grounding point on the driver side front frame rail.



Now for the control unit itself, I decided to mount it just above the HVAC knobs on the passenger side. I did have to drill a small hole to run the wires into the dash.
I did not want to make the hole too large, so I de-pinned the harness plug, ran the wires through the dash, and re-pinned it.
*Note Make sure you take good pictures of the wire orientation before you remove the pins, so you can reference this when plugging the pins back in.




Use the supplied double sided sticky tape to secure the controller to the dash. Make sure you use alcohol swabs to clean off any dirt or grease.


Now let’s mount the optional GPS sensor. We needed to make sure there was not anything significant blocking the signal to the satellites, but I also did not want to have a sensor stuck to our dash, or the rear deck lid. I decided to see if there was any room under the speaker grill on the dash, and sure enough, there is just enough room to squeeze it in there.



This is also a great location for the GPS sensor as you can easily hide the wire by running it out of the side of the speaker grill, and down the side of the dash, eventually tucking the wire in between the dash and the door frame. Then run it up under the dash and to the control units wiring harness.

Speaker with GPS installed, looks OEM!

Now plug in the drivers, control unit and GPS and turn the key to “Accessory” to make sure the unit powers up and you can hear all 4 motors self-calibrating. Once you confirm everything is working, you can either use the pre-programmed settings, or you can dial in your own. We had to set ours up so that each driver was responding appropriately to the inputs on the control unit. It is very simple, but I would recommend following the instruction manual for a step by step walkthrough. 

End result is very clean, and you can only see the wires if you really look hard.


We did have to trim the rear carpet for the EDFC motors to fit.


I hope this was a helpful guide to get you started on installing your own EDFC Active Kit. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!

Thanks,
Rick

How-To: Install Coilovers on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase Mazdaspeed3 Coilovers from us HERE

Most of you have probably never heard the name Pedders Suspension here in North America. Pedders is an Australian based company that manufactures top end OE struts, upgraded replacement struts, high performing coilovers and many other suspension parts. They are very well known with V8 super cars and produce top performing parts. I can’t say I’ve seen anyone here state side using their coilovers so I really wanted to get a set on Yurtle and see how they did.

These are going to be 30-way adjustable damping and come with pillow-ball hats in the front that offer more camber adjustment than you will probably ever need. With independent ride height adjustability you will be able to adjust spring pre-load and ride height without compromising performance and ride quality.

The awesome part is Pedders offers a 2 year / 36,000 mile warranty!

For the Gen2 Speed3 they come with the following spring rates:
Front 7KG/MM
Rear 6KG/MM

Everything basically comes preassembled from Pedders out of the box which takes the guess work out of torque specs.

Very high quality and attractive front upper mounts.

I would suggest unpacking the entire contents of the box to ensure that all parts are accounted for.

If you have access to a lift this will make things much easier for you. Go ahead and zip the wheels off.

To start the removal process of the stock strut assembly you will need to pull the abs harness out of the 2 brackets – one on the strut and one on the vehicle, remove the clip holding the brake line and remove the endlink nut.

Carefully unclip the harness from the abs sensor and move it aside to a spot out of the way of your work area. To remove the front struts you will need to remove the 19mm on the back side of the spindle. Once removed the service manual says to tap the spindle with a hammer so that the strut comes out the top of it. They must use some magical hammer because it didn’t work for me. If you have one handy grab an air hammer and go to town until the 2 are separated.

Next you will grab a 14mm and pull the 3 bolts on the top of the strut housing which are holding the strut assembly in place. *Ensure you have someone holding the strut from below otherwise once all 3 bolts are removed the strut will fall and potentially cause damage to surrounding parts.

Here is a nice side by side comoparison of the front factory strut/spring assembly and the Pedders coilover.

After removing both sides you are almost ready to install the Pedders. Before you do that you will want to set them next to each other to ensure the ride height is adjusted equally, this will make it much easier to adjust the ride height after they are installed on your car.
Also note the unit on the right side and the bottom silver collar position. To adjust ride height you loosen this collar and spin the housing itself. You will not adjust the spring seat and spring lock unless you plan on changing spring pre-load.

Installation of the Pedders coilovers will be the same process for removing the stock assembly but in reverse. You will want to properly torque the Pedders unit to the vehicle with the 3 washers and 3 nuts they supply for each side

Once the Pedders are properly mounted into the hub you will want to torque the bolt on the backside to 54ft/lbs.

Reinstall the factory endlink and don’t forget to reinstall the ABS line bracket and reattach the abs sensor harness back into their original spots. Ensure you reinstall the brake line and clip.

Now that the fronts are done you can move onto the rear.

To remove the rear struts you need to remove the bolt on the lower part of the strut.

Remove the swaybar endlinks and swing it down out of the way.

Remove both nuts holding the upper strut mount and remove the factory strut from the vehicle.

To remove the factory spring loosen the inner nut and remove the outter bolt so that the lower control arm can swing down. Be somewhat careful since the spring is somewhat loaded and can pop out.

As with the front ensure that you have the length of the left and right rear struts are the same and go ahead and install and secure with the 2 nuts.

Next you’ll assemble the spring, spacer, spring seat, spring lock and the rubber isolator. The lower red circle is where the end of the bottom coil on the spring will seat in the lower control arm. Ensure you have the length of these units adjusted the same from left to right and reattach the lower control arm to the hub.

Once you’ve gotten the lower control arm reattached to the hub install the lower strut mount to the hub. This part is a bit tricky and requires some force to line up the holes properly. *Be very careful and ensure the bolt threads up by hand easily*.

Once you’ve tossed the wheels back on and lowered the vehicle you will want to roll the vehicle back 2 car lengths back forward back 2 car lengths and back forward before assessing your drop height. The adjustments pictured above will basically put you at stock ride height. After getting the car to the height you are happy with make sure you get an alignment done immediately and ensure that the locks on the springs and struts are all tight.

And here are the results for Yurtle who is currently on 18×9 +45 TE37SL’s and 245/40/18 Falken Azenis:

Thank You,

Tanner

How-To: Install COBB Tuning Downpipe + Catback Exhaust on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this turbo back exhaust directly from us HERE

We decided that the White Sheep project ST was in need of some growl to go along with all of its bite. This car from the factory, as most of you know, has a very quiet stock exhaust tone because the engineers wanted all of us to hear their “symposer” as the sound of the engine. If you’re anything like most car enthusiasts, you would prefer to hear the engine itself over some engineer’s idea of preferred engine noise.

We thought for quite a while which exhaust was going to go on the ST. We listened to all of the available options out there and did our research and we opted for the COBB Tuning catted downpipe with the accompanying COBB Tuning cat-back exhaust. Once we got the exhaust in, we were pleasantly surprised with the overall build quality, and appearance of the product itself and were excited to get it installed and hear what it was all about. So we got to work tearing the old exhaust out and placing this nice looking exhaust in its place.

To start off, we’ll give you a list of tools you will need to perform this task:

1) 3/8 ratchet
2) Sockets: 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 15mm
3) Extensions of various lengths
4) T-30 torx bit
5) O2 sensor socket
6) Wrenches 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 15mm
7) Sawzall
8) PB Blast (or other lubricant to help with the exhaust hangers)

Ok, now that we have the tools gathered up, let’s get started! Here’s a quick look at what comes in the box. It really is a beautiful exhaust, too bad it spends its whole life under the car You can see in the image that it comes with several gaskets, there are gasket for aftermarket 3 inch downpipes (which we are using) and gaskets for the factory downpipe as well. There are also gaskets for using the stock exhaust with the COBB Tuning downpipe

So, here’s what we are dealing with and what so desperately needs to be upgraded, that factory exhaust.

Here’s a shot of the stock downpipe as well.

First thing we need to do is take the mid-chassis brace which has 2 10mm bolts holding it in place.

Now we need to break out the sawzall and cut the rear section of the exhaust where it bends up to clear the rear axle. You can see an approximate spot that we cut ours here

Here it is after the cut. This cut was really quick and easy.

Now that we got the stock exhaust cut, the rear section needs to come out first; there are three hangers that hold the rear section in place. One right up above the cut we just made, and two that are on each side of the muffler.

You can see the location of the three hangers here

Now that we have the exhaust all loosened up and free, you’ll need to pull it out from the rear of the car, it’s a little tricky, you might have to bend up a little of the heat shielding to get it out, once you have it out, set it aside and we’ll start working on the mid-section

To get the mid-section out, all we have to do is loosen the front two 15mm nuts from the studs at the bottom of the downpipe and there is one hanger in the middle of the mid-section and that’s it, it will fall out.

Now that we have the mid-section out and taking for granted that you plan on installing the downpipe at the same time as the exhaust, we’ll need to remove the Downpipe now. First thing we did, was remove the 6 15mm bolts/nuts holding the rear sub-frame cross brace.

Now we can loosen the v-band clamp holding the downpipe to the turbo, this was a little tricky to get loose and take the clamp off, but after just a little bit of persistence it will come loose.

Next, remove the 5 13mm nuts holding the support bracket on the downpipe and transmission (this will not be reused) don’t forget the one that’s somewhat hidden on the left of this image. We pointed it out so you know which one we’re talking about.

Now it’s time to remove the bolts holding the exhaust hanger on the subframe, it’s just two 10mm bolts shown here

We are finished underneath for the time being, let’s move up top and get some things done up there, first thing you want to do is remove your upper intake pipe, we have the COBB Tuning intake so this might not be the same as everyone here, but it will definitely give you a good idea of what’s next. Just loosen the brackets and clamps holding your intake pipe in place and remove it and set it aside.

Now, the tricky part, getting the O2 sensors unplugged, we didn’t remove the cowl so we just reached behind and followed the wires to the plugs and unplugged both O2 sensors. We couldn’t get a very good image of this but they are both located towards the driver’s side of the engine. Now that they are unplugged, let’s get that downpipe out! It should just pull right out, watch the wire for the O2 sensors, they have a tendency to catch on things as you pull the pipe out.

Well, the first steps are done, here’s a shot of the whole system, out of the car.

While swapping the O2 sensors over to the new COBB Tuning Downpipe, make sure you put them in the correct place.

Be sure you put the hanger on the new downpipe on correctly; it should slide easily off then back on.

There is a little round steel gasket that was on the stock downpipe, be sure you place this on your new downpipe to ensure a tight seal to the turbo

When we were sliding the new downpipe up in place, we placed the v-band clamp on the flange so we didn’t have to try to fight it after it was up there.

Now we can fish it up in there and put it in place. Get the v-band clamp snug and bolt the hanger to the subframe, don’t forget to plug in your 2 O2 sensors!

Now, let’s move on to the exhaust! You’ll want to start off by installing the mid-pipe that has the mufflers and S-bend. Loosely bolt it in place using the appropriate gaskets and supplied 14mm bolts/nuts. You’ll only want to finger tighten these while you work the rear of the mid-pipe into the exhaust hanger. We used a little bit of PB blast here to promote ease of install in the hangers.

Next will be the over axle section of exhaust, here you might have to bend a little bit of the heat shielding out of the way to get it to squeeze in there. It’s a tight fit, but it will go. Be patient. Install the supplied 14mm hardware loosely as getting the tips straight and centered relies greatly on the repositioning of all the hangers and couplers prior to final tightening.

We can install the tip section of the exhaust now! Slide it into the two hangers and use the supplied hardware to connect it to the over axle section, don’t forget the gasket! This is when you will want to start at the front of the exhaust and work your way to the tips tightening everything and making sure your tips are centered as you go

This is where it’s very nice to have someone helping you; they can tighten and adjust the hangers and bolts while you adjust the tips into place. When we first got it all in place the tips were hanging way down, after just a little bit of adjustment, they were perfect!

Man, those dual 4 inch tips sure are amazing! Sorry for the dirty car I detailed the car shortly after installing the exhaust.

Man, this exhaust really is good looking. The fit and finish is very impressive.

Now that we have all of that installed and ready to go, let’s take it out for a drive. The sound, I have to say I was expecting it to be tinny, harsh and perhaps a little louder than I wanted honestly, as I myself, have never ran a COBB Tuning exhaust on any of my cars. After we got this installed, we fired it up and I was pleasantly surprised with the initial tone and volume of the sound. It was loud enough that you knew there was a performance exhaust on there, but it wasn’t so loud that it bothered me. So, of course the next step would be to rev it up, right? So revving it up in neutral gives you even more reason to really like this exhaust! The sound I would say gives you visions of perhaps a European sports car; it’s throaty, not cheap, tinny sounding. I know COBB put a lot of time and effort into this exhaust and you can definitely tell by the sound, build quality, and overall functionality of it. After installing the turbo back exhaust we applied the appropriate tune and took it for a drive. I don’t know if it was the exhaust tone, or if there is that big of a difference, but it seems to be quite a bit happier. Cruising down the highway at 70 mph, there is zero drone, when you drop the throttle there is an aggressive increase in volume and power comes on hard. It seems like the throttle response has improved as well. Again, I don’t know if it is just a mental thing, but it honestly feels like this made a pretty big difference. We are taking it to the dyno soon to get some more numbers and we will post up the results as soon as we get them. We made a little video so you guys could get an idea of what it sounds like, I think the video gives you a pretty good idea of the sound of the exhaust, but it doesn’t give you the full experience. This exhaust truly is impressive. Thanks for reading, and watching!

Thank You,

Corby

How-To: Install Turboback Exhaust on 2008+ Mitsubishi Evolution X

You can purchase this Turboback exhaust directly form us HERE

Tools Needed

PB Blast (for those old rusty bolts)
Ratchet
Extension
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
14mm wrench
17mm wrench
O2 Socket
Pliers
And something to trim plastic with

Lets start with Tomei Expreme Downpipe Big Mouth 

What is included

Two Part Down Pipe
Exhaust Clamp
New Turbo to Downpipe Gasket
Extra O2 Bung Plug with Copper Washer
2 New Nuts (For the Cat to Downpipe bolts)
New Stud
Tomei’s Bolt-Smooth-Paste

Great quality welds that look good. You know you are getting a quality piece with this 

The First Step we did before getting under the car was to remove the Heat shield  that is bolted onto the Manifold and Down Pipe

Start by removing the plastic cover the covers your engine.

To remove simply pull up on it gently with one hand on the back and front.

It is held on by 4 rubber mounts that are on the engine

Remove your Strut Tower Brace as well to give you more room to work with.

You will need a 14mm socket or wrench for the 6 nuts and 2 bolts that hold this on.

3- 14mm nuts Located at the top of each strut

2-14mm bolts in the center mounted to the cowl/ firewall

You will now have much better access to the heat shield located on the back of the motor.

Locate the 5- 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield to the manifold and down pipe.

3- 10mm bolts located on top of the heat shield mounted to the manifold

2- 10mm bolts located on the lower back and side to the down pipe.

Once you have removed the heat shield you will now be able to see the down pipe.

There are 5 bolts and 1 Nut all being 14mm size.

(I recommend PB Blasting these bolts to help break them loose with out breaking)

(Our down pipe bracket bolt was already broken off and is still in the down pipe.)

Next We lifted our car up to work on the underside while the Turbo to Down Pope bolts soak in PB Blast 

Using a O2 censor socket we removed the the O2 Sensor and Wide band sensor in the exhaust.

We removed the Cat section next

There are 2- 17mm bolts on each end of the cat section 4 total.

Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the exhaust to the hanger.

This is much easier than removing the hanger with the exhaust on it.

Removal of the lower part of the down pipe will require a 17mm socket or wrench.

An extension will be needed if using a socket or some maneuvering of your arm to get a wrench onto the two 17mm spring bolts that are holding the lower portion of the down pipe up.

Once you have removed the lower half of the down pipe you will now have more access to the turbo for getting the mouth of the down pipe off.

Using a 14mm socket and ratchet carefully remove the 4 bolts holding the down pipe to the turbo.
(Use PB Blast while backing out the bolts to help them come out while you back them out)
Do not forget the 1 14mm nut on the bottom back side of the housing. Its hard to see from up top, but its on the lower back side and can get to it from the bottom.

Once you undo all of the bolts you will need to pull this portion of the down pipe out through the top of the motor.

A comparison of the Stock Down Pipe vs. the Tomei

Tomei’s bigger diameter and smother design

Big Mouth Opening

I like that they surface the flange face smooth for a nice even flat surface for the gasket

Using the provided Tomei Bolt-Smooth-Paste apply this to new stud provided with the new Tomei Down Pipe.

A little bit on the threads is all that is needed.

Spread this evenly over the threads and do this for all the studs and bolts. This will make life easier down the road if needed to remove in the future.

Install the lower stud into the down pipe. This will help guide the down pipe onto the turbo and hold the new provided gasket in place.

Use two nuts installed on the stud like show below to tighten the stud into the down pipe.

Always consult the installation instructions provide for questions 

Slide the the two parts of the down pipe together with the provided clamp on.

(Note you will want to snug up the clamp, but do not fully tighten yet. You will want to still be able to rotate it as need to line up with the rest of the exhaust.)

Tomei has thought ahead for you and made their down pipe with a 2nd O2 bung for those running a AFR sensor on their cars.

If your car is not running a AFR sensor no worries. Tomei has provided you with a extra bung plug.

This would be the time to install this plug before putting the down pipe in the car.

Install your new gasket that has been provided and be ready to install your new Tomei Down Pipe.

See how this is the incorrect way to try and install your down pipe as it is simply much to big to fit.

Install the new Tomei down pipe from the top of the engine bay.

Set it gently into place to rest safely while you lift the car to gain access to the bottom of the car to align the down pipe with your turbo.

From below you can now align the down pipe properly.

Reaching in from the wheel well can help you align and hold the down pipe in place while the bolts are all installed.

(Placing a little Tomei Bolt-Smooth-Paste on all bolts before installing as well)

From down here you can install the nut that goes on the stud that is not easy to get to from the wheel well.

You can now align the lower portion of the down pipe and instal your O2 and ARF Sensor.

Tighten all of your bolts once everything is aligned.

With your Cat removed and down pipe installed removal of your cat back exhaust will be simple.

This exhaust system has seen better days.

You will need a 17mm socket and ratchet and some PB Blast to remove the spring bolts and slide the hangers off the exhaust.

The Cat Back is made up of 2 parts. The Mid Pipe and the Muffler section.

Having an extra hand to lower the exhaust after removing the hangers will help. (Use a little PB Blast on the metal hangers will help to slip the rubber exhaust hangers off)

Now that the stock exhaust has been removed you will be ready for your Tomei Test pipe and cat back install.
(Recommend wearing gloves when installing the Titanium exhaust to not leave finger prints on the exhaust)

Lets start with the Test pipe section.

Included will be the test pipe with a place for your factory O2 sensor
4 new nuts
4 new bolts
2 new gaskets
Bolt-Smooth Paste
and a zip tie for your O2 sensor wiring to be tied back up

Save over 12 lbs!!! from the stock Cat! 

Stock Cat 14.7 lbs. vs. Tomei’s Test Pipe 2.4 lbs!

Take your new hardware and apply some Bolt-Smooth-Paste to them.

Slide them onto your down pipe and install new gasket that is provided.

Install the test pipe and mount the bolts that are provided.

What it looks like once installed 

It is now time for the main event!

Tomei Titanium cat back install. This extremely light weight and a work of art!

Included will be the 3 part cat back system
A Silencer for those that would like it quieter
1 New Gasket
2 Exhaust Clamps
4 Retainer Springs
2 New Bolts
1 Light Weight Muffler Hanger
1 Rubber Gard for the Muffler to Muffler Hanger
1 Nut and Bolt (Used for clamping the Muffler Hanger to the Muffler)
1 Bolt-Smooth-Paste

This system really is extremely light weight!

You will save over 34 lbs form your stock cat back with the Tomei Titanium Exhaust.

Stock 44.2 lbs vs. Tomei 9.7 lbs!!!

Bolt your first straight pipe of your cat back up to your test pipe

Slide your middle section onto the end of the straight pipe lining up the spring retainer hooks.
(Note have your exhaust clamp on before connecting these two sections together) 

Once the two pre-muffler pipes are connected we hook the exhaust on the first hanger under the rear diff section.

Once the two pre-muffler pipes are connected we hook the exhaust on the first hanger under the rear diff section.

Your two pipes should look like so once installed.

We snugged up our exhaust clamps and had the bolt on the top of the exhaust as to not hang down low.
They could get caught or rub if your car is low.
(Do not tighten up as some adjustment will be needed later)

Install your retainer springs once your clamp is snug.

You may use pliers for pulling this enough to hook.
(This can be a little tricky be careful)

Once your retainer springs are installed it should look like so.

For the Muffler section we installed the muffler hanger and hanger before the muffler.
(Make sure to use the protective rubber strip between the muffler and the muffler hanger when installing)

Slide the muffler through the hanger and line up the muffler to the middle section of the cat back system.

(Having an extra hand when sliding the muffler into place will help out at this point and make sure you have your exhaust clamp already on)

Once you have the muffler in place and aligned up snug up your exhaust clamp and attach your retainer springs.

It is now time to tighten up all your clamps.

With the exhaust being installed you may notice that the exhaust tip has a slight angle that makes it come close to thebumper plastic.
(As seen in this picture of the plastic touching the muffler)

Using something to cut the plastic with carefully trim away what is needed to provide more clearance of the bumper to muffler.
(We used some wire cutters to take care of this although anything can be used that will cut the plastic)

Bumper now has now been trimmed to fit with the muffler with plenty of clearance.

And now the final result!

Thank You,

Dallin