How-To: Install Turbosmart Dual Port BOV on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Blow Off Valve directly from us HERE

 

TurboSmart valves are one if not the best out on the market. Pulling this dual port out of the box you can tell they take pride in their products. Very nice looking CNC’d aluminum. They include an instructional CD, block off plate to run fully recirculating, new gasket, allen wrench and a nice sticker.

I took a few pictures comparing the stock valve to the TurboSmart so everyone can see the differences.

The installation on this is very easy. All you need is a 10mm socket and ratchet and a couple pairs of pliers for the hose clamps.
If you don’t have an aftermarket intake on your car then this along with most of the other aftermarket valves will not fit.

Pull the two 10mm bolts out, use your pliers to remove the clamp and vacuum hose from the top of the factory valve along with the return hose.

Reinstall the new gasket, valve with the 2 10mm bolts being careful not to over torque them (71-88in/lbs), vacuum hose and return hose.

I really love this valve, sounds and performs amazing. We are going to work on getting a sound clip video made up for everyone to hear what it sounds like .

Thanks,
Tanner

How-To: Install Turbosmart Internal Wastegate Actuator on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this IWGA directly from us HERE

We recently installed the Turbosmart Internal Wastegate Actuator on our White Sheep Focus ST! We talked to Turbosmart a little bit while we were in California about the benefits of running this new wastegate actuator and they told us that the benefits are, faster spool time, more consistent boost delivery and more accurate boost control. So we thought it would be a great add-on for the ST! 

Here’s what Turbosmart has to say about it:

The ST Internal Wastegate Actuator (IWG) provides better turbo response and greater sensitivity when managing boost pressures. Designed as a direct bolt-on replacement for the factory part, the ST IWG is easy to install and requires no special tools or fabrication. It can’t get any easier!

Tuning may be required with this actuator.

So after receiving it, we decided it was time to get it installed and see what it was all about. We’re glad we did, it turns out that the first batch was mis-shipped and we received a batch that had the incorrect brackets. We had to slightly modify ours to get it to fit, we notified Turbosmart and they were on the ball and quickly shipped out the correct product for us! Thanks Turbosmart! The only difference between the one we installed and the new ones we received is the bracket holes were off by approximately 2mm. The new ones are fixed and ready to install.

So, this seems like it would be a tough install, something that would take a very long time to accomplish. When we approached the install we gave ourselves around 5 hours thinking that it might take that long. All in all, it was about 2 hours start to finish, and this includes drilling out our “incorrect” bracket which you won’t have to worry about. I would say the most difficult part was getting the bolts that hold the actuator to the turbo off and back on, only because we kept approaching them at the wrong angle and the socket wouldn’t go on straight.

So the tools we used on this install are:

1) Ratchets
2) Extensions, long and short
3) T30 torx bit (for under tray)
4) 10 mm, 8 mm sockets
5) 10 mm, 8 mm wrenches
6) Needle nose pliers, or standard pliers (to take the vacuum line off)
7) Flat tip screw driver

Ok, so now that we have gathered those up, let’s get started. We need to get the car in the air first, so we can access things. You can use a jack and jack stands, we used a lift.

Now that the car is in there air, we need to pull off the under tray. 11 t-30 torx bit screws takes care of that

Now that we have that out of the way, we need to pull the heat shield off the turbo so we can get to the wastegate actuator. Pretty simple, two bolts and its off!
This is the lower one

Then there is an upper one as well. You will want to use plenty of wd40 or pb blast to help get these out. They are a little tight caused by the many heat cycles of the turbo. This isn’t a very good image, but there is a bolt there.

Now that we have that out of the way, we have pretty good access to the wastegate actuator. There is little room between the firewall and the actuator, so some of these pics are bad, and I couldn’t get a very good picture of the nuts on the arm. Here’s the wastegate bolts from one angle.

Now that we have that out of the way, we have pretty good access to the wastegate actuator. There is little room between the firewall and the actuator, so some of these pics are bad, and I couldn’t get a very good picture of the nuts on the arm. Here’s the wastegate bolts from one angle.

We tried to get to the bolts from this angle and it wasn’t a very good approach, so we went up top, pulled the intake off and cover off the engine and gave us pretty decent access to it from up top. As you can see here

We pulled the retaining clip off of the actuator arm first, but we really couldn’t get a camera back there to get a decent picture of it, there is a little clip that retains the bolts from coming loose that comes off simply by prying it gently with a flat tip screw driver. Watch that you don’t fling it off and lose it because you will be using it on the new arm. Once you get that clip off, just loosen the outside nut and thread it off the arm completely so you can slide the arm out of the wastegate arm. Now we can take our socket and ratchet with a long extension to get back there and take the actuator off.

Now that you have it loose, you’ll want to pull the vacuum line off the barb on the top of the actuator. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze the clamp to open it and slide it back, and then gently pull the hose off. Now the actuator is free and should pull right out. Slide it straight back out of the wastegate arm and pull it out. Now that we have it out, I can clearly show you the nuts on the arm. Here is the stock actuator next to the Turbosmart unit. The quality of the Turbosmart unit is amazing!

Now that we have them side by side, let’s adjust the nut on the Turbosmart unit to match the factory one. Be careful here, when we first adjusted it, we had it a little too tight and when we took it for a test drive it was holding too much boost so we had to back the nut off slightly to get it within factory specs.

Now simply place the new Turbosmart actuator back in the factory location and bolt it down and replace the vacuum line. Don’t forget to put that retainer clip over the 2 nuts on the actuator arm.
Here’s a shot of it in it new home. Ready to hold some boost!

All that’s left is to put everything back together and you’re ready to go. Take your car for a test drive and make sure you’re within boost targets for your respective tune, and you’re ready to go. Now enjoy your new found boost stability and quicker spool time!

Thank You,

Corby

How-To: Install Transmission Magnetic Drain Plug and Fluid change on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Click on the photos below to purchase the drain plug and fluids

There have been alot of questions about the drain plug size for the MS3 but I’ve never found an answer so I figured now would be a good time to get some high performance fluid and toss in a Dimple Magnetic drain plug.

I tossed in Motul Gear 300 oil since Motul is known for making some of the best oils on the market and we’ve had awesome results especially with this gear fluid.

Here is the drain plug once you get the under panel removed from your car. You’ll need a 24mm sock and wrench to get this out. You’ll also need the 24mm to remove the fill plug.

Drain plug:

Fill Plug:

Here is the Dimple M18x1.5×12 on the left and the stock fill and drain plugs on the right and middle.

I opted to reuse the factory drain plug washer in place of the one that Dimple includes since it is much beefier.

Once the fluid is drained install the Dimple drain plug ensure you torque it down properly.

Dimple Drain Plug Socket Size is 17mm
Tightening torque
28-S0 N·m {2.9-S.1 kgf·m, 21-37 ft·lbf}

Fill the new fluid while the car is level and only fill it to the bottom of the fill hole. Torque the fill plug down reinstall your under tray and you are done.
What is really cool is you don’t need any special funnel or hoses to fill the transmission with Motul. Their bottles actually have a built in next that extends once you open the bottle and I was able to feed it to the fill hole and squeeze the fluid in very easily.

Manual transaxle oil capacity (approx.
quantity)
2.4-2.6 L {2.6-2.7 US qt, 2.12-2.28 Imp qt}

Thanks,
Tanner

How-To: Install cp-e Triton Dual Cat-Back Exhaust on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this exhaust directly from us HERE

 

 

Description:

Looking for a little more out of your 2010+ MazdaSPEED3 exhaust?

Introducing the cp-e™ Triton™ 3″ cat back exhaust for the 2nd Generation MazdaSPEED3’s.

Featuring a full 3″ Stainless Steel mid pipe, two cp-e™ designed resonators, and dual 4″ polished exhaust tips; this cat back exhaust will not only improve the breathing of your 2nd gen MazdaSPEED3, it will also give you that aggressive exhaust note you’ve been looking for!

The cp-e™ Triton cat back exhaust for the 2nd gen MazdaSPEED3 has a very controlled exhaust note. No drone at cruising speeds, yet pronounced and aggressive at wide open throttle.

For those of you who have replaced the extremely restrictive factory downpipe, this 3″ cat back will remove the last bottleneck in the exhaust stream; increasing the engines breathing capacity and smoothing out the turbo spool.

All cp-e™ exhausts are made from Super Polished Stainless Steel. The 18g heavy duty stainless piping is mandrel bent and cut on their in-house CNC Bender and CNC Mills. The systems feature custom cast Stainless Flanges, reliable hangers, custom made Stainless Mufflers and polished stainless tips. Everything is TIG welded by hand to get beautiful color and durability in the welds. Designed fully in a CAD environment to guarantee a factory-like fit every-time with great performance gains.

Details
Part #: CPE MMS32DCBEM2
Brand: cpe
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited LIfetime Warranty
Installation Hardware Included: Yes
Piping Coating: No
Piping Flex Joint: No
Piping ID: 3in
Piping Material: 304 Stainless Steel
Piping Taper: No
Tip Material: Stainless Steel
Tip QTY: 2
Tip Size: 4in

As always great packaging and presentation by CP-E.

You can either do this installation on a lift or with jack stands. Luckily we have a lift here at work which always makes working on cars easier so I opted to take advantage of it for this install.

To remove the factory catback you’ll basically only need a 12mm and 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Start off by removing the mid chassis brace by removing the 8 12mm bolts. The brace has some hooks on it so you’ll have to slide it back before it will drop down and off the car.

Use your 14mm to remove the nuts from both axleback and midpipe.

Next you’ll disconnect the exhaust hangers and drop the factory system out of the way.

Here is the car with the factory catback uninstalled.

Mount up the pretty CP-E axle-back section.

To install the midpipe, when connecting it to a factory downpipe or factory style you’ll need to remove the stock studs and connect using the supplied bolts and washers and reuse the factory springs.

To connect the axle-back and midpipe you’ll need to install the 3rd pipe in the kit that are slip fit connections with clamps.

After you’ve connected all the pipes reinstall the chassis brace while ensuring you don’t overtorque these bolts.

Install the tips as the last part. There is a fair amount of adjustment on the tips so that you can either install them flush with the bumper, out further or have them sit tucked under the bumper, really whatever you feel you like best.

Here is the finished product.

Don’t forget to watch the video we made of the exhaust.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Tanner

How-To: Install Ohlins Coilovers on a 2008+ Mitsubishi EVO X

You can purchase these Coilovers directly from us HERE


Installation Difficulty 2.5 out of 5

Installation Time (about 1 -1.5 hours)

Tools Needed:
-Flat Head Screwdriver
-6mm and 5mm Allen Wrench
-12mm Wrench or Socket
-14mm Wrench and Socket
-17mm Wrench and Socket
-19mm Wrench and Socket

Ohlins Packaging

Everything you will receive in your packages

Got to Love that Gold on the Ohlins 

Before we installed the the coilovers they needed to be assembled.

Assembly was pretty straight forward just make sure you install your 10k front springs on the Front Struts and 7k Rear Springs on the Rear 

Front 10k Springs Part #47010-31/100C 022

Rear 7k Springs Part # 47010-19/70C 022

Installation:

-Remove your wheels and tires to give you all the room you need to remove your stock suspension and install your newcoilovers.

If you have a lift before raising the car up you will want to loosen the 3 – 14mm nuts on top of your front Struts on each side.

From Down below on the back side of the front struts there will be a 12mm nut holding the brake line and sensor wire bracket.

Removing this nut will allow you to remove the bracket with lines from the original struts.

Using a 19mm Open end wrench and 19mm Socket remove the 2 nut and bolts on the bottom of the Front Strut Assemblies.

Once these have been removed you can loosen the top 3 -14mm nuts to remove the old strut. Re-installing will be in the reverse order 

60k miles with winter driving has started to show its use on the stock suspension.

Front Suspension Torque specs are as follows:

For the 3 -14mm nuts on top of the strut assembly 33 +- 3 Ft-Lb.

For the 2 -19mm Nuts and bolts on the Bottom of the struts assembly 81 +/- 8 ft-lb .

To start on the Rear Assembly you will need a Flat Head screwdriver to to remove the interior plastic.

Start by removing the trunk carpet.

Your will next step will be to remove the clips that hold the plastic cover over the Battery and Washer resistor.

2 Clips on top

And two Clips on each side

Once all 4 clips have been removed pull the plastic cover down and out

Next Step will be to remove both side carpets.

There are two clips on both sides that hold the carpet in now.

These are threaded clips so simply twist to the left to loosen and pull off.

You will now have access to the top 2 -14mm nuts that hold the top strut assembly to the chassis.

With your 14mm Socket loosen both nuts on top of the strut.

The one on the back side is a little tricky to get to and undo as you do not have that much room but its not too bad 

A view of both nuts from inside.

Once both of these have been loosened you can now work on the lower side.

Using a 17mm socket and wrench you can loosen and remove the lower bolt that holds the Strut and Lower control arm in place.

With the lower bolt removed you can now remove the top 2 -14mm nuts and remove the rear strut assembly to install your New Ohlins 

Install in the reverse order.

Rear Suspension Torque Specs are as follows:

For the 2 -14mm nuts on the top of the strut assembly 33 +- 3 Ft-Lbs.

For the 1 – 17mm Nut and Bolt on the bottom of the assembly 52 +/- 7 ft-lb.

A nice part that Ohlins has included with these coilovers is the remote adjusters for Damping/ Rebound for the rear.

There is one for each side in the rear.

This will allow you to easily adjust your damping and rebound with the turn of a knob with out having to remove the trunk interior.

This hole in the rear of the chassis I found to be a great location spot to have adjuster knob sitting that will not be covered once all the trunk interior parts are back in.

I fished the end that goes into the top of the strut assembly like shown in the picture below.

This will connect into the top of the strut like shown below.

Using the provided Allen tool you can tighten the little Allen screw to hold the remote adjuster in place.

Installed remote adjuster 

Reinstall your trunk interior and you will now be able to easily access the adjustment knobs 

When you are all done reinstall your wheels and Make sure to torque your lug nuts before trying out your new suspension 

To adjust your Damping/ Rebound on the front struts locate the little knob on the bottom of the Ohlins strut assembly.

Left to soften Right to stiffen.

Same with the rears, but you will have easy access with the provided adjuster knobs.

Before Ohlins installed 

After Ohlins installed 

Some cool Professional installed pictures of the Ohlins to show off 

Last is a pretty cool cut away shot our company photographer did 

If you have any questions or concerns on how to install please feel free to let us know.

Thank you,

Dallin

How-To: Install Hella Supertone Horns on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

You can purchase these horns directly from us HERE

We have been planning to install these horns on the White Sheep for a while now; things kept getting in the way. We finally got some time to get them installed and wanted to share the install with you guys! We know that the factory horns are fairly loud so we were unsure exactly how much of an advantage we would see by installing these horns. I’ve got to say though, WOW these things are LOUD! We did a little dB meter testing with an android phone so it was in no way scientific at all, but we found an 11db difference from 20 ft. away. While this might not seem like a whole lot, being that it’s 20 feet away, it is a VERY noticeable difference. Here’s a picture of the location of the phone, how we kept it in place, and the readings we found.

Well, let’s see what tools are necessary to install these. This all depends on how you want to install them; you could very well do it with leaving the front bumper on by pulling the lower covers off the car and reaching up into the passenger front section where the horns are located, shown here:

We pulled the front bumper off with plans to install them in another location, but once we started messing around with different placement, we found that the factory location is the best place for them. So, while the front bumper is pulled off in the pictures, just think of the install with the bumper installed. It would have been a LOT less time consuming if we wouldn’t have pulled it off.  Tools needed when installing with the bumper in place will be:

1) T30 Torx
2) 10mm
3) Wire strippers/crimpers
4) Wire
5) Bolt/nut to couple the brackets together
6) Electrical tape
7) 4 female blade connectors
8) 2 spade connectors
9) Heat wrap (for wires)

Now that we have everything gathered up, let’s get started. Get the car in the air and secured either on jack stands, or on a lift. Pull the lower front lip off (3 T30 torx screws) then the belly pan (8 T30 torx screws) and finally, the front lower cover (7 T30 Torx screws and 4 push clips) Now that we have everything apart, let work on pulling the factory horns out. This will be very easy, just a single 10mm bolt and a wiring clip (just squeeze the clip and it pulls right off) Here’s our resident ratchet man, pulling the bolt out. You can see the clip hanging down, there is also a Christmas tree clip holding the wiring harness to the bracket, it should push right out.

Now that we have the bracket out, let’s take it to the vice, and drill the holes out to fit the larger bolts on the back of the Hella horns. We used a 21/64 bit, but a 3/8 would work just as well.

Here we are drilling out one of the holes and test fitting it, perfect fit!

Now drill out the other side, and there you have it, a bracket, ready to accept the Hellas!

So we wanted the horns to have a nice, square, symmetrical look to them when they were installed, if you just use the bracket by itself, it’s impossible to do, it places the horns to close together and you would need to bend the bracket to get them to fit. So, we took on of the brackets that came with the horns and did some test fitting.

We found the best location for it and found a bolt to couple them together (the kit does not come with bolts; it only comes with the nut on the back of the horn on the stud.

This seems to be the best way to install the bracket and keep everything nice and even and symmetrical.

Here we are test fitting to make sure they will look properly, both horns are loose at this point. But you can see, they are just about perfectly placed.

Now, for the wiring. This is pretty easy, all we did was take some female blade connectors and put them on the horn’s connectors. Now we found that there are no markings for the positive and negative on these horns, so we made sure we used the same side connector and spliced them together. So, we took some spade connectors, cut one side off and this seemed to work great to reuse the factory connector without having to cut the end off. In case we decided to put the stock horns back on.

Now that they are all wired up, we just need to hook them up to the factory connector, these spade connectors work great for sliding into the factory receptacle. They just push in, nice and snug, we used electrical tape to tape them up to the connector to help keep them in place and to reduce the possibility of a ground out.

Here are some placement shots along with some clearance shots so you can get an idea of how they fit.

Now that we have them installed, blast those things! Man, they are really loud. When we were testing the wiring, we hit the horn while standing right in front of them, boy that was a mistake. It about made us deaf. If you were having issues with the volume of your existing horns, these are a great way to increase the volume without breaking you wallet. There is a video of these in another person’s thread so we didn’t post a video, if you would like us to post a different video, let us know and we’ll get one up. Thanks for reading, and enjoy your new, loud horns!

Corby

How-To: Install Whiteline Rear Sway Bar on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this sway bar directly from us HERE

 

Description:

Whiteline’s 2 hole 27mm adjustable sway bar allows trimming of oversteer/understeer through varying the sway bars ability to resist weight transfer via increasing or decreasing the effective arm length of the sway bars mounting position. If desired you can even set one side at the “hardest” position and set the other side at the “softest” position to achieve your desired effects.

A bigger front sway bar will give the car more understeer where a bigger rear bar will give the car more oversteer.

Details
Part #: WHI BMR88Z
Brand: Whiteline
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Adjustable : Yes
Bushings Included : Yes
Mounts Included : No
Sway Bar Diameter : 27mm
Sway Bar Type : Solid

There are a total of 4 bolts and 2 nuts that need to be removed in order to uninstall the factory sway bar. You can see them circled in the picture below.

Start by removing the 4 14mm bolts holding the sway bar brackets to the car.

Remove the 17mm nut securing the endlinks to the sway bar on both sides.
**This car has low miles on it so I was able to simply remove these nuts with a socket and wrench. On older vehicles you will need to use a box end wrench and allen key to keep the endlink from rotating with the nut**

Remove the stock sway bar by pushing the endlinks away from the bar.

Go ahead and pull the Whiteline bar and components out of the bag.
(Make note that this kit comes with 2 different sets of bushings from Whiteline. The larger bushings will not be used on the MS3 application.)


Toss the new bar on the car by loosely fitting the swaybar brackets and hardware on and inserting the endlinks into the hole you want to use. The hole closer to the center of the bar is going to be stiffer than the outside hole.

Go ahead and torque the bracket bolts down to the proper specification: 31-39ft/lbs

Torque the endlink nuts down to the proper specification: 33-44ft/lbs
You will also use a 3mm allen to tighten the lateral lock collars down on the bar. With the bar centered as best possibly visually you will install the lateral locks down with a 3-4mm gap from the bushing per Whitelines instructions while being careful not to over tighten and strip them out.

After everything is put back together you’ll have a nice huge 27mm bar on the rear.

Thank you,
Tanner

How-To: Install Whiteline Front Sway Bar on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this sway bar directly from us HERE

Description:

Whiteline’s 2 hole 27mm adjustable sway bar allows trimming of oversteer/understeer through varying the sway bars ability to resist weight transfer via increasing or decreasing the effective arm length of the sway bars mounting position. If desired you can even set one side at the “hardest” position and set the other side at the “softest” position to achieve your desired effects.

A bigger front sway bar will give the car more understeer where a bigger rear bar will give the car more oversteer.

Details
Part #: WHI BMF57Z
Brand: Whiteline
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Adjustable : Yes
Bushings Included : Yes
Mounts Included : No
Sway Bar Diameter : 27mm
Sway Bar Type : Solid

Definitely a little bit of a time intensive installation for anyone looking to tackle this one make sure you have the better part of the afternoon as well as a transmission jack to support the subframe since this will need to be lowered.

To get this project started it is best to have access to a lift to get the car up in the air and give you plenty of room to work with.
You will want to remove the longer support brace in front of the catalytic converter by removing all nuts and bolts circled below.



Set the hardware and brace aside in a safe spot.


Remove both rear subframe bolts and the bolts holding the bracket to the chassis.

Move up to the front of the car more and remove bolt of the 14mm endlink nuts.
**This car has low miles on it so I was able to simply remove these nuts with a socket and wrench. On older vehicles you will need to use a box end wrench and allen key to keep the endlink from rotating with the nut**



Remove both of the 17mm bolts which will release the sway bar on the top side of the subframe.

At this point you will want to toss the jack up to support the subframe before pulling the remaining support bolts out. You can go ahead and remove the exhaust hangers from the downpipe as well.


The next thing we need to do is remove the 2 front sub frame bolts. Here you will need a really long extension to get to the 2 bolts, they are quite a ways up and there is an access hole on both sides of the car through the lower control arm. These are going to be 17mm bolts.


The steering rack bolts will need to be removed so that you can pull the subframe down far enough that you can remove the sway bar. There are a total of 3 17mm bolts and you’ll need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the lines to the rack.
One picture that is missing is you will also need to remove the rear motor mount during this phase so that the subframe is not connected to the transmission.


At this point you can pull the subframe down while lowering the jack in order to get enough access to remove the front swaybar.
Same thing as with the rear, Whiteline includes 2 different sets of bushings. The larger of the 2 sets you will not sure.


Toss the lateral locks on the front bar loosely along with the new bushings and factory brackets and go ahead and toss it up on top of the subframe.

Line up the swaybar brackets and toss in the bolts to secure the bar to the subframe torquing them down to 89-120ft/lbs.


At this time you will want to tighten the lateral locks while you can still get to them. Center the bar as best as possible and install them 3-4mm from the bushing.


Crank the jack while lining the subframe holes up with the chassis.


Insert and torque down the front subframe bolts to 65-85ft/lbs

Reinstall the steering rack hardware.

Reinstall the remaining bracing and subframe bolts and torque to the correct specification.


Last but not least reinstall the factory endlinks and torque to 32-44ft/lbs.

How-To: Install Eibach Sway Bar Kit on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

You can purchase this Sway Bar Kit directly from us HERE

Today we went ahead and installed the Eibach sway bars on our White Sheep Focus ST! The factory sway bars are pretty robust from the factory, but there is always room for improvement.

Here’s what Eibach has to say about them:

Enhance your suspension upgrade with an Eibach Sway Bar Kit. The Eibach Sway Bar Kit allows critical fine-tuning of your car’s handling characteristics.

The Eibach Sway Bar Kit reduces body roll through increased design stiffness over the stock Sway Bar. The result: increased handling and cornering grip in any performance-driving situation.

Manufactured from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel for precision performance, and finished with a long-lasting red powder coat finish, the Sway Bar Kit comes complete with greased urethane bushings for improved responsiveness and all mounting hardware and instructions for easy installation.

With these being adjustable we can take full advantage of the cars suspension upgrades, we wanted to be able to tune it down for daily driving and stiffen it up for when we head out for a day at the track. Without further delay, let’s get on with the install, shall we?

First things first, we need some tools. Here’s a list of all the tools you will need to perform this installation:

1) Jack or Lift
2) Jack Stands
3) 13mm Socket and/or Wrench
4) 15mm Socket and/or Wrench
5) 18mm Socket and/or Wrench
6) 21mm Socket and/or Wrench
7) T-30 Torx Bit
8) Ratchet (3/8 and ½)
9) Long Extension
10) Torque Wrench
11) 5mm allen wrench

One thing I think we should mention here is we have to drop the sub frame to get the front sway bar out of the car. If you don’t feel confident in your ability to do this, we recommend having a mechanic perform the installation of the front sway bar.

Here’s a look at the box the goodies come in.

Here’s what’s inside, just begging to be installed!! Front and rear sway bars, sway bar bushings, and installation hardware including lube.

Now that we have the majority of the tools gathered up (some aren’t pictured here, we used some ratcheting wrenches in the process)

Let’s get to work! You’ll want to get your car either on a lift or on jack stands before you start on this project. Now that it’s in the air, we can get to that under tray. We have taken it off several times in the past, there are 8 t30 torx bit screws holding it on plus three holding the front rubber lip on.

Now that we have that out of the way we can pull rear sub frame cross brace off, there are 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding it, and they are all 15mm.

We used a ratchet and socket; you can use a wrench if you like.

Once that’s out of the way, we can make our way to the downpipe damper bracket there are 2 10mm bolts holding it on, shown here

Now we’ll have to remove the rear motor mount (this would be a good time to upgrade it if you haven’t already, (here’s a link to the one we have installed) it has instructions on how to get the factory hardware out of the way. Your car’s setup might be slightly different than ours.

Now we can take the factory end links off, first slide your 15mm wrench on the nut and slip the 5mm allen wrench in the bolt to hold it while you take it off.

We had a little issue with our factory end link while trying to pop it out of the sway bar, the ball joint popped out of the end link. No problem for us, as we are installing Whiteline adjustable end links anyway, but if you have difficulty popping yours off, be extra careful this doesn’t happen to you.

Here’s the adjustable end links from Whiteline, for more information on these end links, click here, or any image that shows the end links being installed.

These are VERY robust when compared to the factory end links, and with them being adjustable, they are almost a must have on your car if you plan to take it to the track to tune your suspension. They are a nice piece and the build quality is phenomenal!

So we just have to adjust these to whatever length you want to run, we adjusted ours to factory length so we could give you some real world feedback on the sway bars. Then we just have to bolt in the tops of them to the factory holes, and leave them hanging for a little bit while we continue pulling the sway bar out.

Now we can get back to removing the sway bar. Here you will want to support the engine with a jack, or something that will hold it up while dropping the sub frame. You’ll also want to put a jack under the sub frame itself to control the drop.

The next thing we need to do is remove the 2 front sub frame bolts. Here you will need a really long extension to get to the 2 bolts, they are quite a ways up and there is an access hole on both sides of the car through the lower control arm. These are 15mm Sorry for the lack of pictures here. I didn’t get any shots of these bolts. Now we can get the rear sub frame mounting bolts off. There are 6 bolts total, 4 13mm bolts and 2 21mm bolts.

Next on the list is three 15mm bolts holding the steering rack in place. The one closest to the driver’s side is a little tricky to get to, but using a ratcheting wrench here will save you some time.

There we go, got them out!

We can finally get to the sway bar bushing bolts! These take a 21mm on top, and an 18mm on the bottom. You will likely have to hold the 18mm head while ratcheting the 21mm nut off.

Now the sway bar will slide out. You might have to wiggle it around slightly and lower the sub frame a bit more to get it out, but it should slide out fairly easily. Here’s a comparison shot of the factory sway bar (in black) vs the Eibach sway bar (red) Pretty noticeable difference!

You will have to get the bushing mounts off of the factory sway bar because we will be re-using these with the bushings provided with the sway bar kit. Don’t confuse the rear with the front bushings, they are in two separate bags and are clearly marked if you have any question. We took out old trusty and tapped the mounts right off of the stock sway bar.

Here it is off, slide the factory bushing out, and lube up the Eibach bushings prior to installing them, there is a tube of lube in each package for the front and the rear sway bar, use approximately half of the tube for every bushing. There are grooves in the bushing that hold grease.

Here’s the new Eibach sway bar with the factory mounts and Eibach bushings installed on our new sway bar!

Now we can just throw the new sway bar back in place of the old factory sway bar, slide it up in there and bolt it all back down in reverse of the removal process! So we can call the front done!

Here’s a shot of the sway bar and the Whiteline adjustable end link from the wheel well.

Now that the front is done, let’s move on to the rear! The rear is a walk in the park compared to the front. There is just 6 bolts holding it in place. We’ll start by pulling the end links off. They take a 15mm like the fronts did.

Now the sway bar mounts, they are just 2 13mm bolts on each side, and the sway bar slides right out.

Here’s a shot of the factory rear sway bar and the Eibach unit

Lube up your replacement bushings and slide them on.

Now throw your replacement mounts on and you’re ready to re-install this bad boy!

Slide it in place and bolt it back down making sure that the “Eibach” writing is right-side-up and you’re ready to bolt it back in place. And that’s it! You’re ready to take your car out and have a feel.

As with ANY suspension work, you will want to take it to have an alignment done. We experienced a slight steering wheel offset when we first installed these sways; one trip to the alignment shop takes care of that!

While we were installing the Eibach sway bars, we wanted to throw a little comparison/install video together for you, in the video we did a little slalom run with the stock sway bars and one in the exact place, with the exact positioning of the cones, with the Eibach sways.

On to first impressions, I there is certainly a noticeable difference in cornering body roll. It has been reduced enough that I feel a bit more confident in the car’s ability to enter a turn with a bit more speed and not worry that I won’t be able to hit the next apex. The lift off over steer is still there, although I would say that it has reduced in its willingness to do so. The car seems a bit more planted if you will. I feel more in control, and ready for whatever the track or the street has to offer!

Hopefully this helps you guys/gals make a decision on your next suspension upgrade! Thanks for reading!

Corby

How-To: Install Cobb Tuning Short Shift Plate on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this shift plate directly from us HERE

We have always noticed that the throws on the factory shifting linkage was a little long on the Focus ST (it’s a lot like rowing a boat  ) So we decided to do something about this. We found out that COBB was designing a short shift plate a little while ago and we were anxiously awaiting its arrival to our facility so we could give it a try. Once we received one of the shift plates, we went ahead and installed it on our shop car White Sheep.

We gathered up the tools needed for the install:

1) Needle nosed pliers
2) 10mm open ended wrench
3) 3/8 ratchet
4) 3/8 Extension
5) Large flat tip screw driver (we show a smaller one here, but it isn’t what we used)
6) 10mm socket
7) 8mm socket
8) Permanent marker
9) The rest of the tools are supplied with the shift plate. Including Loctite!

A shot of everything that comes with the kit and what we gathered up

Now, let’s get to work! First thing we did was unplug the MAP harness and move it out of the way

Now undo the four 8mm screws holding the top of the air box on shown here circled in red.

Once those are loose, the top should pull right off. (keep in mind the screws are attached to the lid, don’t pull them out all the way)

Next, loosen the hose clamp that goes onto your intake piping (varies depending on what intake you have) Also, take the 10mm bolt out of the support holding the intake tubing to the head of the engine.

Now we can set the intake aside for now and move on

We need to mark the shifter weight in several places so we know exactly how it came off so we don’t install it incorrectly when we are ready to put it back on. So take your sharpie or other permanent marker and mark it properly.

Gently pry the shifter linkage off the shifter weight (it should pop off with a little bit of force)

Now there is a retainer pin that is in the side of the shifter weight that we must tap out with the supplied hex head bolt shown here

Now we can take our bolt and tap the pin out, you can use needle nose pliers here to hold the bolt, or, if you feel comfortable enough, you can hold the bolt like I did, just tap it out the back side slowly, try your best not to tap it out the back side and lose it in the engine bay, I held my hand on the back while tapping the front, it seemed to work out ok.

Here’s what the pin looks like

Slide the shifter weight off the shaft (it should be loose and easy to take off)

Here’s the marks on the shaft after pulling the weight off.

Slide the COBB Tuning short shift plate on the weight; it should only go on one way, like this

Turn the weight over, place the bottom plate on so the holes line up, they should only line up one way, shown here. Throw a dab of Loctite on the bolts before threading them in

Now we can take the supplied 3mm allen wrench and tighten down the bolts. Don’t go too crazy tightening them down, they should be tight, but not too tight. You should be able to feel when they snug down.

There’s the plate installed and ready for the next step

Put a dab of Loctite on the ball stud and thread it into the plate. Again, don’t go too tight, you will feel it bite into the nylon washer as you tighten it down. You have 2 positions you can place the ball stud, the one closest to the existing ball stud is 30% reduction while the one further away is 40%, we opted for the 30% reduction and it seems to work fine. You can try either one. (Keep in mind the more reduction you choose, the more effort it will take to shift)

Another dab of Loctite on the set screw and it is ready to thread into the side of the plate. Take the supplied allen wrench and tighten it down

It’s already ready to go back in the car! That was fast! Ok, place it back on the shaft making sure you line up the marks your marks you made prior to uninstallation. It should slip right back on.

Let’s tap the pin back in to hold it in place, we held it with the needle nosed pliers first to get it started, then we just tapped it the rest of the way in, once we couldn’t tap it in with just the hammer anymore, we grabbed the supplied hex head bolt and tapped it in about where it was when we started this uninstallation.

Pop the shift linkage on the ball stud.

INSTALLED!

Now we can start re-assembly, take the intake box and place it back in position

Tighten down the clamp on the take and replace the bolt anchoring the intake piping to the valve cover

Plug in your MAP sensor

Replace your rubber strap in front of the box that secures the fresh air inlet.

Now we just have to replace the four 8mm screws that hold the lid on the intake box and we’re all done!

So this was a very easy installation. All the people that have installed it will attest that it took a lot less time than expected. The change in shift length even at 30% is definitely noticeable. They is literally 30% less throw. Getting the transmission into the gears isn’t much different. I was expecting it to be a lot more difficult to get into gear, but that is just not the case. I ran it through all the gear quite aggressively and I can still bang every gear confidently without worrying about missing gears. This was a good upgrade; I think it’s almost a must if you like to grab gears quickly while accelerating. We are taking the sheep to the drag strip this Friday, we’ll see if we can improve some et’s and mph, We’ll report back when we have some data! Hopefully this tutorial will help you when you’re ready to install this plate on your car!

Thanks
Corby
RallySportDirect.com