How-To: Install Eibach Pro-Alignment Rear Camber Arms on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase these Camber Arms directly from us HERE


Last week I installed a set of the Eibach rear camber arms. Since installing coilovers and lowering Yurtle a decent mount I’ve been running close to -2.7* of camber in the rear. With winter coming up quick I need to switch to a winter / all-season tire and don’t want them wearing unevenly. The factory rear upper arms are nice units but they do not have any adjustment so to be able to correct the alignment these Eibach arms were exactly what I needed with their adjustment range of up to +5* to -1.5*.

First things first, we need some tools. Here’s a list of all the tools you will need to perform this installation:

1) Jack or Lift
2) Jack Stands
3) 1/2″ or 3/8″ Ratchet Wrench
4) 17mm Socket and Wrench
5) Torque Wrench
6) Crescent Wrench
7) Pry Bar

Lets take a look at what Eibach includes.

Let’s get to work! You’ll want to get your car either on a lift or on jack stands before you start on this project. Now that it’s in the air, we can pull both rear wheels off to reach all the necessary bolts. Starting on the drivers side the arrow in the picture below is pointing at the stock upper arm and the circled bolt is the first 17mm you will need to remove.

Once you have the outter bolt removed, remove the inner 17mm bolt.

With both of the 17mm bolts removed you can pull the factory arm right out.

In order to ensure my camber in the rear didn’t get too out of wack before I could make it to the alignment shop I stacked the Eibach arm on top of the factory arm and put one of the 17mm bolts through both.

Grab your crescent wrench and use the largest nut on the Eibach arm to rotate the end until the hole lines up exactly with the factory arm underneath.

To ensure you adjusted it the correct length both 17mm bolts should slide through the holes on both arms without any force.

With the drivers side Eibach arm adjusted to length go ahead and install it using the same procedure to remove the factory unit but in reverse.

Moving onto the passenger side arm the procedure will be nearly identical with the exception that the inner bolt is a litte tricky to remove, at least on our 2013 it was. I assume this will apply to all years.

In order to remove the inner bolt you’ll have to get it to clear this shield.

To solve this problem I used a long pry bar against the arm to angle the bolt up just enough to clear the shield.

Once the passenger side arm is out I used the same procedure of matching up the inner holes with a 17mm bolt and adjusting the outter end on the Eibach arm to match the hole up exactly to the factory one and reinstalled.

Now that both Eibach arms are installed you want to ensure that you torque the 17mm bolts and the 13mm bolts on the arms to the proper specification.
The factory service manual states to torque all 4 17mm bolts to 57-75ft/lbs.

Eibach wants the lock bolt/nut on the arms torqued to 20ft/lbs but you can’t exactly get a torque wrench in there so just don’t try to overtighten it. It is fairly easy to reach 20ft/lbs with a ratcheting wrench.

Reinstall your wheels and ensure you torque your lug nuts properly and you are DONE!

Ensure you take your car to get an alignment done as soon as possible.


How-To: Install cp-e Nviscid Turbo Inlet Hose on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Turbo Inlet Hose directly from us HERE



For those looking to upgrade their inadequate factory plastic turbo inlet pipe and want the most performance possible, look no further. The cp-e™ Nviscid™ Pipe is without a doubt the optimal solution for both stock and GT series turbos thanks to its versatility, low-restriction design, and thermal insulation properties.

Turbos work most effectively when they have no restriction on the inlet side. The Nviscid™ Pipe poses the lowest restriction to stock and GT turbos alike because it offers a tremendous 3-inch cross-sectional flow area throughout. This is accomplished thanks to the pipe’s non-uniform cross-sectional area, which is made possible by the silicone construction.

The silicone also doubles as an excellent thermal barrier. Cold air is denser than hot air, and will ultimately have more power producing potential. To illustrate just how good silicone is at reflecting heat, it’s about 1000-times better at insulating than aluminum.

The pipes also come with slick details like steel wire re-enforcement to prevent collapsing under vacuum, it features all stock brackets and mounting tabs, and also utilizes steel inserts for cold air intake and bypass valve recirculation attachments. Now you can have a true 3” turbo inlet without all the normally associated headaches.

Both the GT series and stock turbo inlets will fit without any modifications to the vehicle, and come with all necessary hardware for installation.

This turbo inlet is for cars with a 3″ aftermarket intake and the stock turbo.

Part #: CPE MZR23NIPS3.0
Brand: CP-E
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Reinforced Silicone
Layers: 5

Another great product from CP-E, top quality packaging and manufacturing/.

The install on this is moderate to easy, there isn’t much more you have to do after removing the intake to get the turbo inlet off.
With everything you do in the engine bay on this car you’ll need to start off removing the intercooler shroud with a 10mm socket.

You can see here I’ve already removed the intake, battery and battery box. These parts are very easy to remove and are covered in the Autotech internals installation write-up I did if you need to reference it.

Remove everything connected to the factory turbo inlet.

This part is a little tricky because there is little space to work in. Go ahead and remove your factory intercooler by removing the 3 12mm nuts holding it down as well as loosening the 2 hose clamps, one on the inlet side and one on the outlet. This will give you more room to work with when removing the factory inlet and installing the new one.

This part is a little tricky because there is little space to work in. You are going to remove the vacuum line from the turbo inlet to the solenoid as well as unscrew the worm clamp holding the turbo inlet hose to the turbo inlet. I used a pair of needle nose pliers on the small clamps and stubby phillips to loose the hose clamp.

Factory turbo inlet hose removed exposing this tiny turbo.

Everything has been removed that needs to be in order to install the new inlet.

This shows how pinner the factory inlet is compared to CP-E’s.

You will need to remove the rubber bushing from the factory inlet for use on your new one. Remove the metal sleeve from the middle of the bushing and install onto your CP-E inlet. Install the metal tab on your inlet onto the factory stud and install the washer and nut.

Take the vacuum hose CP-E includes with the inlet and trim it down to the length you want because it is a bit too long out of the box. Reinstall with your factory clamps.
CP-E includes a new clamp for the inlet to the turbo but I opted to reuse the factory one which worked well.

Position the clamps on the inlet appropriately so that you can access the screw on them and also keeping everything away from the engine harness so no damage occurs over time.

Reinstall your battery box.

Go ahead and start putting everything back in the way you removed it and you are almost done. 
(Don’t mind the filter in these pictures it was a temporary unit until I was able to obtain the oil kit for the CP-E intake).

Now download the appropriate map from Cobbs website to your Accessport and reflash the cars ECU prior to driving and you are done .

Yurtle heads to the dyno
Stage 1 CP-E Nano + CP-E Inlet + CP-E Catback

Event: Dyno Tune/ Product Testing
Location: ZipTie Dynoworks, Salt Lake City Utah.
Ambient Temp: 80
Elevation: 4600ft
Effective Altitude: 4410ft
Weather: Sunny
Car: 2013 MazdaSpeed 3
Tuner: Cobb Tuning AccessPort
Dyno Info: Mustang
Transmission: 6spd
Gear: 4th
Peak HP Stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 239WHP Corrected
Peak Torque Stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 271WTQ Corrected
Fuel: 91

Engine/Power Modifications:

Cobb Tuning AccessPort Stage 1 + CP-E Nano Intake + CP-E Inlet + CP-E Catback



Unfortunately we didn’t see the gains we were expecting. I believe in part due to the temperature being very hot compared to the dyno prior and the facility did not have the proper amount of ventilation. This inlet is still a very highly recommended upgrade and I suggest everyone to put this on their mod list.

Here is a video of the dyno with the Stage 1 + CP-E Nano Intake + CP-E Inlet Flash





How-To: Install Turbosmart Dual Port BOV on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Blow Off Valve directly from us HERE


TurboSmart valves are one if not the best out on the market. Pulling this dual port out of the box you can tell they take pride in their products. Very nice looking CNC’d aluminum. They include an instructional CD, block off plate to run fully recirculating, new gasket, allen wrench and a nice sticker.

I took a few pictures comparing the stock valve to the TurboSmart so everyone can see the differences.

The installation on this is very easy. All you need is a 10mm socket and ratchet and a couple pairs of pliers for the hose clamps.
If you don’t have an aftermarket intake on your car then this along with most of the other aftermarket valves will not fit.

Pull the two 10mm bolts out, use your pliers to remove the clamp and vacuum hose from the top of the factory valve along with the return hose.

Reinstall the new gasket, valve with the 2 10mm bolts being careful not to over torque them (71-88in/lbs), vacuum hose and return hose.

I really love this valve, sounds and performs amazing. We are going to work on getting a sound clip video made up for everyone to hear what it sounds like .


How-To: Install Transmission Magnetic Drain Plug and Fluid change on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Click on the photos below to purchase the drain plug and fluids

There have been alot of questions about the drain plug size for the MS3 but I’ve never found an answer so I figured now would be a good time to get some high performance fluid and toss in a Dimple Magnetic drain plug.

I tossed in Motul Gear 300 oil since Motul is known for making some of the best oils on the market and we’ve had awesome results especially with this gear fluid.

Here is the drain plug once you get the under panel removed from your car. You’ll need a 24mm sock and wrench to get this out. You’ll also need the 24mm to remove the fill plug.

Drain plug:

Fill Plug:

Here is the Dimple M18x1.5×12 on the left and the stock fill and drain plugs on the right and middle.

I opted to reuse the factory drain plug washer in place of the one that Dimple includes since it is much beefier.

Once the fluid is drained install the Dimple drain plug ensure you torque it down properly.

Dimple Drain Plug Socket Size is 17mm
Tightening torque
28-S0 N·m {2.9-S.1 kgf·m, 21-37 ft·lbf}

Fill the new fluid while the car is level and only fill it to the bottom of the fill hole. Torque the fill plug down reinstall your under tray and you are done.
What is really cool is you don’t need any special funnel or hoses to fill the transmission with Motul. Their bottles actually have a built in next that extends once you open the bottle and I was able to feed it to the fill hole and squeeze the fluid in very easily.

Manual transaxle oil capacity (approx.
2.4-2.6 L {2.6-2.7 US qt, 2.12-2.28 Imp qt}


How-To: Install cp-e Triton Dual Cat-Back Exhaust on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this exhaust directly from us HERE




Looking for a little more out of your 2010+ MazdaSPEED3 exhaust?

Introducing the cp-e™ Triton™ 3″ cat back exhaust for the 2nd Generation MazdaSPEED3’s.

Featuring a full 3″ Stainless Steel mid pipe, two cp-e™ designed resonators, and dual 4″ polished exhaust tips; this cat back exhaust will not only improve the breathing of your 2nd gen MazdaSPEED3, it will also give you that aggressive exhaust note you’ve been looking for!

The cp-e™ Triton cat back exhaust for the 2nd gen MazdaSPEED3 has a very controlled exhaust note. No drone at cruising speeds, yet pronounced and aggressive at wide open throttle.

For those of you who have replaced the extremely restrictive factory downpipe, this 3″ cat back will remove the last bottleneck in the exhaust stream; increasing the engines breathing capacity and smoothing out the turbo spool.

All cp-e™ exhausts are made from Super Polished Stainless Steel. The 18g heavy duty stainless piping is mandrel bent and cut on their in-house CNC Bender and CNC Mills. The systems feature custom cast Stainless Flanges, reliable hangers, custom made Stainless Mufflers and polished stainless tips. Everything is TIG welded by hand to get beautiful color and durability in the welds. Designed fully in a CAD environment to guarantee a factory-like fit every-time with great performance gains.

Brand: cpe
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited LIfetime Warranty
Installation Hardware Included: Yes
Piping Coating: No
Piping Flex Joint: No
Piping ID: 3in
Piping Material: 304 Stainless Steel
Piping Taper: No
Tip Material: Stainless Steel
Tip QTY: 2
Tip Size: 4in

As always great packaging and presentation by CP-E.

You can either do this installation on a lift or with jack stands. Luckily we have a lift here at work which always makes working on cars easier so I opted to take advantage of it for this install.

To remove the factory catback you’ll basically only need a 12mm and 14mm socket and ratcheting wrench.

Start off by removing the mid chassis brace by removing the 8 12mm bolts. The brace has some hooks on it so you’ll have to slide it back before it will drop down and off the car.

Use your 14mm to remove the nuts from both axleback and midpipe.

Next you’ll disconnect the exhaust hangers and drop the factory system out of the way.

Here is the car with the factory catback uninstalled.

Mount up the pretty CP-E axle-back section.

To install the midpipe, when connecting it to a factory downpipe or factory style you’ll need to remove the stock studs and connect using the supplied bolts and washers and reuse the factory springs.

To connect the axle-back and midpipe you’ll need to install the 3rd pipe in the kit that are slip fit connections with clamps.

After you’ve connected all the pipes reinstall the chassis brace while ensuring you don’t overtorque these bolts.

Install the tips as the last part. There is a fair amount of adjustment on the tips so that you can either install them flush with the bumper, out further or have them sit tucked under the bumper, really whatever you feel you like best.

Here is the finished product.

Don’t forget to watch the video we made of the exhaust.






How-To: Install Whiteline Rear Sway Bar on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this sway bar directly from us HERE



Whiteline’s 2 hole 27mm adjustable sway bar allows trimming of oversteer/understeer through varying the sway bars ability to resist weight transfer via increasing or decreasing the effective arm length of the sway bars mounting position. If desired you can even set one side at the “hardest” position and set the other side at the “softest” position to achieve your desired effects.

A bigger front sway bar will give the car more understeer where a bigger rear bar will give the car more oversteer.

Part #: WHI BMR88Z
Brand: Whiteline
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Adjustable : Yes
Bushings Included : Yes
Mounts Included : No
Sway Bar Diameter : 27mm
Sway Bar Type : Solid

There are a total of 4 bolts and 2 nuts that need to be removed in order to uninstall the factory sway bar. You can see them circled in the picture below.

Start by removing the 4 14mm bolts holding the sway bar brackets to the car.

Remove the 17mm nut securing the endlinks to the sway bar on both sides.
**This car has low miles on it so I was able to simply remove these nuts with a socket and wrench. On older vehicles you will need to use a box end wrench and allen key to keep the endlink from rotating with the nut**

Remove the stock sway bar by pushing the endlinks away from the bar.

Go ahead and pull the Whiteline bar and components out of the bag.
(Make note that this kit comes with 2 different sets of bushings from Whiteline. The larger bushings will not be used on the MS3 application.)

Toss the new bar on the car by loosely fitting the swaybar brackets and hardware on and inserting the endlinks into the hole you want to use. The hole closer to the center of the bar is going to be stiffer than the outside hole.

Go ahead and torque the bracket bolts down to the proper specification: 31-39ft/lbs

Torque the endlink nuts down to the proper specification: 33-44ft/lbs
You will also use a 3mm allen to tighten the lateral lock collars down on the bar. With the bar centered as best possibly visually you will install the lateral locks down with a 3-4mm gap from the bushing per Whitelines instructions while being careful not to over tighten and strip them out.

After everything is put back together you’ll have a nice huge 27mm bar on the rear.

Thank you,

How-To: Install Whiteline Front Sway Bar on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this sway bar directly from us HERE


Whiteline’s 2 hole 27mm adjustable sway bar allows trimming of oversteer/understeer through varying the sway bars ability to resist weight transfer via increasing or decreasing the effective arm length of the sway bars mounting position. If desired you can even set one side at the “hardest” position and set the other side at the “softest” position to achieve your desired effects.

A bigger front sway bar will give the car more understeer where a bigger rear bar will give the car more oversteer.

Part #: WHI BMF57Z
Brand: Whiteline
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Adjustable : Yes
Bushings Included : Yes
Mounts Included : No
Sway Bar Diameter : 27mm
Sway Bar Type : Solid

Definitely a little bit of a time intensive installation for anyone looking to tackle this one make sure you have the better part of the afternoon as well as a transmission jack to support the subframe since this will need to be lowered.

To get this project started it is best to have access to a lift to get the car up in the air and give you plenty of room to work with.
You will want to remove the longer support brace in front of the catalytic converter by removing all nuts and bolts circled below.

Set the hardware and brace aside in a safe spot.

Remove both rear subframe bolts and the bolts holding the bracket to the chassis.

Move up to the front of the car more and remove bolt of the 14mm endlink nuts.
**This car has low miles on it so I was able to simply remove these nuts with a socket and wrench. On older vehicles you will need to use a box end wrench and allen key to keep the endlink from rotating with the nut**

Remove both of the 17mm bolts which will release the sway bar on the top side of the subframe.

At this point you will want to toss the jack up to support the subframe before pulling the remaining support bolts out. You can go ahead and remove the exhaust hangers from the downpipe as well.

The next thing we need to do is remove the 2 front sub frame bolts. Here you will need a really long extension to get to the 2 bolts, they are quite a ways up and there is an access hole on both sides of the car through the lower control arm. These are going to be 17mm bolts.

The steering rack bolts will need to be removed so that you can pull the subframe down far enough that you can remove the sway bar. There are a total of 3 17mm bolts and you’ll need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the lines to the rack.
One picture that is missing is you will also need to remove the rear motor mount during this phase so that the subframe is not connected to the transmission.

At this point you can pull the subframe down while lowering the jack in order to get enough access to remove the front swaybar.
Same thing as with the rear, Whiteline includes 2 different sets of bushings. The larger of the 2 sets you will not sure.

Toss the lateral locks on the front bar loosely along with the new bushings and factory brackets and go ahead and toss it up on top of the subframe.

Line up the swaybar brackets and toss in the bolts to secure the bar to the subframe torquing them down to 89-120ft/lbs.

At this time you will want to tighten the lateral locks while you can still get to them. Center the bar as best as possible and install them 3-4mm from the bushing.

Crank the jack while lining the subframe holes up with the chassis.

Insert and torque down the front subframe bolts to 65-85ft/lbs

Reinstall the steering rack hardware.

Reinstall the remaining bracing and subframe bolts and torque to the correct specification.

Last but not least reinstall the factory endlinks and torque to 32-44ft/lbs.

How-To: Install cp-e XcelNANO Intake on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this intake directly from us HERE




“NANO” is a prefix for 10-9 (one-billionth) or something really, really small. They felt this name was fitting because their new intake is a miniaturized version of their popular Xcel™ cold air intake. They have basically trimmed all of the non-critical elements from the cold air intake. The beauty of this product is that it is so elegantly simple. It features their ultra-precise CNC machined aluminum mass air meter housing. The computer controlled machining process ensures that the housings have the same diameter for the most accurate fuel trimming. They of course also include an aluminum stock-style airflow straightener which greatly improves mass air sensor precision. To finish the package, you get a reusable oiled filter

Brand: CP-E
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Filter Color: White
Filter Element Type: Wet
Filter Material: Cotton
Filter Reusable: Yes
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Aluminum
Tuning Required: Yes

Another great product from CP-E, top quality packaging and manufacturing/.

The install on this is pretty easy. You are going to remove the factory airbox and MAF housing and replace with the CP-E parts. You’ll need a basic set of tools for the install, the majority of what you need consists of the following:

Start off with removing the cover over the factory intercooler.

Remove the MAF plug.

Disconnect the factory breather hose by pinching the blue clip on both sides and pulling the hose up.

Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the factory airbox down with your 10mm socket and wrench.

Using your phillips head screwdriver loosen up the post maf hose clamp.

Remove the factory airbox and maf housing.

Using your 10mm remove both of these gold nuts on the battery tray bracket.

Install the intake support bracket.

Loosen the clamp holding the post maf hose to the turbo inlet and remove.

Grab your new post maf hose from the CP-E kit and it install it with the provided clamp.

Remove the blue clip from the factory hose and install it onto your CP-E MAF housing. Install one of the included clamp and install the MAF housing into the post maf hose while also plugging the MAF sensor back in.

Using a supplied clamp install that onto your CP-E filter and install onto the MAF housing.
If you purchased the Synoil kit don’t forget you need to oil the filter because it does not come pre-oiled from CP-E.

Now download the appropriate map from Cobbs website to your Accessport and reflash the cars ECU prior to driving and you are done .


How-To: Install COBB Tuning Shift Weight on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Shift Weight directly from us HERE



For those seeking improved shift response and to ensure the transmission stays in gear during aggressive driving, they have enhanced the shifting mechanism with COBB’s CAD designed Shift Weight. Reducing the weight of the shifting system by over 0.66 lbs has improved shift speeds and the overall feel of shifting the Mazdaspeed2/6.

The specific size and shape of the CNC machined Shifter Weight make it extremely easy to install and also adds clearance for front-mounted intercoolers and cold-air intakes that pass through that area of the engine bay 

Part #: COB 271300
Brand: COBB Tuning
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Material: Steel

This is how you will receive your package, nicely packaged from Cobb.

The install on this is pretty simple. You are going to remove the factory airbox and MAF housing and this will give you direct access to the factory shift weight.

Be careful removing this clip holding the MAF sensor wiring, it is fairly fragile.

Once the MAF housing and airbox are removed you can see there are 2 12mm bolts holding the factory weight in place. You are going to remove these and reuse them with the Cobb.

Tighten the 2 12mm bolts down to 15ft/lbs with your torque wrench, reinstall everything and you are done!


How-To: Install cp-e Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this Rear Motor Mount directly from us HERE


First, let’s give you the rundown about the mount itself.

Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Color: Black
Durometer: 75A
Material: Aluminum

It is well known that the stock rear motor mount on the MS3 is a weak link and cp-e™ has chosen to think outside the box on this and come up with a completely new design. To do this cp-e™ carefully studied the layout of the stock MS3 Engine Mounts. While designing the side engine mounts it was determined that a better design could be achieved on the rear mount as well.

The way the Mazda engine mount system works is that the two side mounts provide a rotational mounting point, if just these two mounts are installed without a lower engine mount the bottom of the engine is free to swing like a pendulum. Now if you take the stock engine mount and put it in place with its horizontally mounted bushing and you apply some power, it will stop the engine from swinging but you are now stressing the bushing in two directions. These types of bushing are not really meant for this.

So cp-e™ came up with a way to stress the bushing in only one direction, by remaking both sides of the engine mount cp-e™ was able to mount the bushing vertically so now the pendulum affect of the engine is stretching or pushing in only one direction. This also increases the durability of the engine mount substantially.

To accomplish this two blocks of aluminum, starting at 15.81 lbs are slowly whittled down over the course of a couple of hours in our CNC machine to a final weight of 3.53 lbs. This process takes a lot of time but was necessary to give our customers what they want.

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 19mm, 17mm

Wrenches: 19mm

Torque Wrench

Jack, Jack stands, or lift

This is how your mount will come packaged. I am really impressed with CP-E and their attention to detail. Their product packaging is an obvious example of this. You know when a company takes time to package their products this well they really care about what’s inside.

When you pull everything out of the box you will be in awe at how badass this mount is. Everyone here was thoroughly impressed when I was opening ours up for the install. CP-E includes awesome color instructions, hardware, a sticker, thank you card and they even have an employee check off each part that goes in the box and initials. I am very impressed with their attention to detail. No one likes being in the middle of a project to find out not everything was included in the package. You won’t have to worry about that with CP-E.

This install is very easy and anyone can do it in less than an hour if you include time to get the wheel ramps or jack stands out and the car up on those.
Pull out your sockets, ratchet wrench and box end wrench.

Here is a shot of the stock mount before being uninstalled. Very easy to access all the bolts and no need to worry about supporting the engine when removing this.
Go ahead and pull out the 3 19mm bolts holding the mount to the transmission and the 2 17mm bolts that are left. Set your stock mount in a dark corner of your garage because you will never want to install it after the new ones in.

Prep the new mount by taking the long bolt and putting a washer on it before inserting it through the CP-E mounts.

This part is pretty self explanatory but slide the rear portion of the mount into the crossmember.

Go ahead and toss 1 of the 17mm bolts you just pulled out of the stock unit back in and set the left over one with your factory mount. Install all 3 19mm bolts back into the front portion attaching the mount to the transmission.
The tolerances are very tight and didn’t see starting with one bolt versus the other to really matter but you might have to put a little pressure up on the engine to line up a few of the holes before the bolts will go in.

Ensure you take the 2nd washer CP-E includes and put it over the end of the bolt before installing the lock washer and bolt.

Snug up all the bolts.

Grab your torque wrench and set it to 85ft/lbs and torque all 5 bolts down. You will need to grab your 19mm wrench and hold the head side of the bolt while you have the torque wrench on the nut side to get it to 85ft/lbs.

Here is the finished product. This mount looks amazing on the car!

I was a little worried about how much noise and vibration I would get inside the car with this mount but I am very impressed. There is very little at all. Getting in the car and starting it up for the first time with the new mount you can feel the engine starting which I love and then it purrs like a kitten. You will get a little vibration in your rear view mirror but nothing to compared to when I have the stereo turned up.
Pulling out of our shop I could immediately feel a difference. I had urethane inserts in the stock rear motor mount previously which were nice but this CP-E Stage 2 setup is completely different. Steering and gear shift feedback is awesome, much more precise and no jerky 1st gear starts because the engine is rocking with this thing. Previously shifting into 2nd or 4th was a little notchy with the stock mount and inserts but every shift now is super smooth and exact.
This is definitely one if not the first upgrade I would recommend on these cars without a doubt. Very easy installation and for the price you won’t regret how much better your car drives.

Enjoy this comparison video: