How-To: Install Turbosmart Internal Wastegate Actuator on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this IWGA directly from us HERE

We recently installed the Turbosmart Internal Wastegate Actuator on our White Sheep Focus ST! We talked to Turbosmart a little bit while we were in California about the benefits of running this new wastegate actuator and they told us that the benefits are, faster spool time, more consistent boost delivery and more accurate boost control. So we thought it would be a great add-on for the ST! 

Here’s what Turbosmart has to say about it:

The ST Internal Wastegate Actuator (IWG) provides better turbo response and greater sensitivity when managing boost pressures. Designed as a direct bolt-on replacement for the factory part, the ST IWG is easy to install and requires no special tools or fabrication. It can’t get any easier!

Tuning may be required with this actuator.

So after receiving it, we decided it was time to get it installed and see what it was all about. We’re glad we did, it turns out that the first batch was mis-shipped and we received a batch that had the incorrect brackets. We had to slightly modify ours to get it to fit, we notified Turbosmart and they were on the ball and quickly shipped out the correct product for us! Thanks Turbosmart! The only difference between the one we installed and the new ones we received is the bracket holes were off by approximately 2mm. The new ones are fixed and ready to install.

So, this seems like it would be a tough install, something that would take a very long time to accomplish. When we approached the install we gave ourselves around 5 hours thinking that it might take that long. All in all, it was about 2 hours start to finish, and this includes drilling out our “incorrect” bracket which you won’t have to worry about. I would say the most difficult part was getting the bolts that hold the actuator to the turbo off and back on, only because we kept approaching them at the wrong angle and the socket wouldn’t go on straight.

So the tools we used on this install are:

1) Ratchets
2) Extensions, long and short
3) T30 torx bit (for under tray)
4) 10 mm, 8 mm sockets
5) 10 mm, 8 mm wrenches
6) Needle nose pliers, or standard pliers (to take the vacuum line off)
7) Flat tip screw driver

Ok, so now that we have gathered those up, let’s get started. We need to get the car in the air first, so we can access things. You can use a jack and jack stands, we used a lift.

Now that the car is in there air, we need to pull off the under tray. 11 t-30 torx bit screws takes care of that

Now that we have that out of the way, we need to pull the heat shield off the turbo so we can get to the wastegate actuator. Pretty simple, two bolts and its off!
This is the lower one

Then there is an upper one as well. You will want to use plenty of wd40 or pb blast to help get these out. They are a little tight caused by the many heat cycles of the turbo. This isn’t a very good image, but there is a bolt there.

Now that we have that out of the way, we have pretty good access to the wastegate actuator. There is little room between the firewall and the actuator, so some of these pics are bad, and I couldn’t get a very good picture of the nuts on the arm. Here’s the wastegate bolts from one angle.

Now that we have that out of the way, we have pretty good access to the wastegate actuator. There is little room between the firewall and the actuator, so some of these pics are bad, and I couldn’t get a very good picture of the nuts on the arm. Here’s the wastegate bolts from one angle.

We tried to get to the bolts from this angle and it wasn’t a very good approach, so we went up top, pulled the intake off and cover off the engine and gave us pretty decent access to it from up top. As you can see here

We pulled the retaining clip off of the actuator arm first, but we really couldn’t get a camera back there to get a decent picture of it, there is a little clip that retains the bolts from coming loose that comes off simply by prying it gently with a flat tip screw driver. Watch that you don’t fling it off and lose it because you will be using it on the new arm. Once you get that clip off, just loosen the outside nut and thread it off the arm completely so you can slide the arm out of the wastegate arm. Now we can take our socket and ratchet with a long extension to get back there and take the actuator off.

Now that you have it loose, you’ll want to pull the vacuum line off the barb on the top of the actuator. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze the clamp to open it and slide it back, and then gently pull the hose off. Now the actuator is free and should pull right out. Slide it straight back out of the wastegate arm and pull it out. Now that we have it out, I can clearly show you the nuts on the arm. Here is the stock actuator next to the Turbosmart unit. The quality of the Turbosmart unit is amazing!

Now that we have them side by side, let’s adjust the nut on the Turbosmart unit to match the factory one. Be careful here, when we first adjusted it, we had it a little too tight and when we took it for a test drive it was holding too much boost so we had to back the nut off slightly to get it within factory specs.

Now simply place the new Turbosmart actuator back in the factory location and bolt it down and replace the vacuum line. Don’t forget to put that retainer clip over the 2 nuts on the actuator arm.
Here’s a shot of it in it new home. Ready to hold some boost!

All that’s left is to put everything back together and you’re ready to go. Take your car for a test drive and make sure you’re within boost targets for your respective tune, and you’re ready to go. Now enjoy your new found boost stability and quicker spool time!

Thank You,


How-To: Install Hella Supertone Horns on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

You can purchase these horns directly from us HERE

We have been planning to install these horns on the White Sheep for a while now; things kept getting in the way. We finally got some time to get them installed and wanted to share the install with you guys! We know that the factory horns are fairly loud so we were unsure exactly how much of an advantage we would see by installing these horns. I’ve got to say though, WOW these things are LOUD! We did a little dB meter testing with an android phone so it was in no way scientific at all, but we found an 11db difference from 20 ft. away. While this might not seem like a whole lot, being that it’s 20 feet away, it is a VERY noticeable difference. Here’s a picture of the location of the phone, how we kept it in place, and the readings we found.

Well, let’s see what tools are necessary to install these. This all depends on how you want to install them; you could very well do it with leaving the front bumper on by pulling the lower covers off the car and reaching up into the passenger front section where the horns are located, shown here:

We pulled the front bumper off with plans to install them in another location, but once we started messing around with different placement, we found that the factory location is the best place for them. So, while the front bumper is pulled off in the pictures, just think of the install with the bumper installed. It would have been a LOT less time consuming if we wouldn’t have pulled it off.  Tools needed when installing with the bumper in place will be:

1) T30 Torx
2) 10mm
3) Wire strippers/crimpers
4) Wire
5) Bolt/nut to couple the brackets together
6) Electrical tape
7) 4 female blade connectors
8) 2 spade connectors
9) Heat wrap (for wires)

Now that we have everything gathered up, let’s get started. Get the car in the air and secured either on jack stands, or on a lift. Pull the lower front lip off (3 T30 torx screws) then the belly pan (8 T30 torx screws) and finally, the front lower cover (7 T30 Torx screws and 4 push clips) Now that we have everything apart, let work on pulling the factory horns out. This will be very easy, just a single 10mm bolt and a wiring clip (just squeeze the clip and it pulls right off) Here’s our resident ratchet man, pulling the bolt out. You can see the clip hanging down, there is also a Christmas tree clip holding the wiring harness to the bracket, it should push right out.

Now that we have the bracket out, let’s take it to the vice, and drill the holes out to fit the larger bolts on the back of the Hella horns. We used a 21/64 bit, but a 3/8 would work just as well.

Here we are drilling out one of the holes and test fitting it, perfect fit!

Now drill out the other side, and there you have it, a bracket, ready to accept the Hellas!

So we wanted the horns to have a nice, square, symmetrical look to them when they were installed, if you just use the bracket by itself, it’s impossible to do, it places the horns to close together and you would need to bend the bracket to get them to fit. So, we took on of the brackets that came with the horns and did some test fitting.

We found the best location for it and found a bolt to couple them together (the kit does not come with bolts; it only comes with the nut on the back of the horn on the stud.

This seems to be the best way to install the bracket and keep everything nice and even and symmetrical.

Here we are test fitting to make sure they will look properly, both horns are loose at this point. But you can see, they are just about perfectly placed.

Now, for the wiring. This is pretty easy, all we did was take some female blade connectors and put them on the horn’s connectors. Now we found that there are no markings for the positive and negative on these horns, so we made sure we used the same side connector and spliced them together. So, we took some spade connectors, cut one side off and this seemed to work great to reuse the factory connector without having to cut the end off. In case we decided to put the stock horns back on.

Now that they are all wired up, we just need to hook them up to the factory connector, these spade connectors work great for sliding into the factory receptacle. They just push in, nice and snug, we used electrical tape to tape them up to the connector to help keep them in place and to reduce the possibility of a ground out.

Here are some placement shots along with some clearance shots so you can get an idea of how they fit.

Now that we have them installed, blast those things! Man, they are really loud. When we were testing the wiring, we hit the horn while standing right in front of them, boy that was a mistake. It about made us deaf. If you were having issues with the volume of your existing horns, these are a great way to increase the volume without breaking you wallet. There is a video of these in another person’s thread so we didn’t post a video, if you would like us to post a different video, let us know and we’ll get one up. Thanks for reading, and enjoy your new, loud horns!


How-To: Install Eibach Sway Bar Kit on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

You can purchase this Sway Bar Kit directly from us HERE

Today we went ahead and installed the Eibach sway bars on our White Sheep Focus ST! The factory sway bars are pretty robust from the factory, but there is always room for improvement.

Here’s what Eibach has to say about them:

Enhance your suspension upgrade with an Eibach Sway Bar Kit. The Eibach Sway Bar Kit allows critical fine-tuning of your car’s handling characteristics.

The Eibach Sway Bar Kit reduces body roll through increased design stiffness over the stock Sway Bar. The result: increased handling and cornering grip in any performance-driving situation.

Manufactured from cold-formed, high-strength aircraft-grade steel for precision performance, and finished with a long-lasting red powder coat finish, the Sway Bar Kit comes complete with greased urethane bushings for improved responsiveness and all mounting hardware and instructions for easy installation.

With these being adjustable we can take full advantage of the cars suspension upgrades, we wanted to be able to tune it down for daily driving and stiffen it up for when we head out for a day at the track. Without further delay, let’s get on with the install, shall we?

First things first, we need some tools. Here’s a list of all the tools you will need to perform this installation:

1) Jack or Lift
2) Jack Stands
3) 13mm Socket and/or Wrench
4) 15mm Socket and/or Wrench
5) 18mm Socket and/or Wrench
6) 21mm Socket and/or Wrench
7) T-30 Torx Bit
8) Ratchet (3/8 and ½)
9) Long Extension
10) Torque Wrench
11) 5mm allen wrench

One thing I think we should mention here is we have to drop the sub frame to get the front sway bar out of the car. If you don’t feel confident in your ability to do this, we recommend having a mechanic perform the installation of the front sway bar.

Here’s a look at the box the goodies come in.

Here’s what’s inside, just begging to be installed!! Front and rear sway bars, sway bar bushings, and installation hardware including lube.

Now that we have the majority of the tools gathered up (some aren’t pictured here, we used some ratcheting wrenches in the process)

Let’s get to work! You’ll want to get your car either on a lift or on jack stands before you start on this project. Now that it’s in the air, we can get to that under tray. We have taken it off several times in the past, there are 8 t30 torx bit screws holding it on plus three holding the front rubber lip on.

Now that we have that out of the way we can pull rear sub frame cross brace off, there are 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding it, and they are all 15mm.

We used a ratchet and socket; you can use a wrench if you like.

Once that’s out of the way, we can make our way to the downpipe damper bracket there are 2 10mm bolts holding it on, shown here

Now we’ll have to remove the rear motor mount (this would be a good time to upgrade it if you haven’t already, (here’s a link to the one we have installed) it has instructions on how to get the factory hardware out of the way. Your car’s setup might be slightly different than ours.

Now we can take the factory end links off, first slide your 15mm wrench on the nut and slip the 5mm allen wrench in the bolt to hold it while you take it off.

We had a little issue with our factory end link while trying to pop it out of the sway bar, the ball joint popped out of the end link. No problem for us, as we are installing Whiteline adjustable end links anyway, but if you have difficulty popping yours off, be extra careful this doesn’t happen to you.

Here’s the adjustable end links from Whiteline, for more information on these end links, click here, or any image that shows the end links being installed.

These are VERY robust when compared to the factory end links, and with them being adjustable, they are almost a must have on your car if you plan to take it to the track to tune your suspension. They are a nice piece and the build quality is phenomenal!

So we just have to adjust these to whatever length you want to run, we adjusted ours to factory length so we could give you some real world feedback on the sway bars. Then we just have to bolt in the tops of them to the factory holes, and leave them hanging for a little bit while we continue pulling the sway bar out.

Now we can get back to removing the sway bar. Here you will want to support the engine with a jack, or something that will hold it up while dropping the sub frame. You’ll also want to put a jack under the sub frame itself to control the drop.

The next thing we need to do is remove the 2 front sub frame bolts. Here you will need a really long extension to get to the 2 bolts, they are quite a ways up and there is an access hole on both sides of the car through the lower control arm. These are 15mm Sorry for the lack of pictures here. I didn’t get any shots of these bolts. Now we can get the rear sub frame mounting bolts off. There are 6 bolts total, 4 13mm bolts and 2 21mm bolts.

Next on the list is three 15mm bolts holding the steering rack in place. The one closest to the driver’s side is a little tricky to get to, but using a ratcheting wrench here will save you some time.

There we go, got them out!

We can finally get to the sway bar bushing bolts! These take a 21mm on top, and an 18mm on the bottom. You will likely have to hold the 18mm head while ratcheting the 21mm nut off.

Now the sway bar will slide out. You might have to wiggle it around slightly and lower the sub frame a bit more to get it out, but it should slide out fairly easily. Here’s a comparison shot of the factory sway bar (in black) vs the Eibach sway bar (red) Pretty noticeable difference!

You will have to get the bushing mounts off of the factory sway bar because we will be re-using these with the bushings provided with the sway bar kit. Don’t confuse the rear with the front bushings, they are in two separate bags and are clearly marked if you have any question. We took out old trusty and tapped the mounts right off of the stock sway bar.

Here it is off, slide the factory bushing out, and lube up the Eibach bushings prior to installing them, there is a tube of lube in each package for the front and the rear sway bar, use approximately half of the tube for every bushing. There are grooves in the bushing that hold grease.

Here’s the new Eibach sway bar with the factory mounts and Eibach bushings installed on our new sway bar!

Now we can just throw the new sway bar back in place of the old factory sway bar, slide it up in there and bolt it all back down in reverse of the removal process! So we can call the front done!

Here’s a shot of the sway bar and the Whiteline adjustable end link from the wheel well.

Now that the front is done, let’s move on to the rear! The rear is a walk in the park compared to the front. There is just 6 bolts holding it in place. We’ll start by pulling the end links off. They take a 15mm like the fronts did.

Now the sway bar mounts, they are just 2 13mm bolts on each side, and the sway bar slides right out.

Here’s a shot of the factory rear sway bar and the Eibach unit

Lube up your replacement bushings and slide them on.

Now throw your replacement mounts on and you’re ready to re-install this bad boy!

Slide it in place and bolt it back down making sure that the “Eibach” writing is right-side-up and you’re ready to bolt it back in place. And that’s it! You’re ready to take your car out and have a feel.

As with ANY suspension work, you will want to take it to have an alignment done. We experienced a slight steering wheel offset when we first installed these sways; one trip to the alignment shop takes care of that!

While we were installing the Eibach sway bars, we wanted to throw a little comparison/install video together for you, in the video we did a little slalom run with the stock sway bars and one in the exact place, with the exact positioning of the cones, with the Eibach sways.

On to first impressions, I there is certainly a noticeable difference in cornering body roll. It has been reduced enough that I feel a bit more confident in the car’s ability to enter a turn with a bit more speed and not worry that I won’t be able to hit the next apex. The lift off over steer is still there, although I would say that it has reduced in its willingness to do so. The car seems a bit more planted if you will. I feel more in control, and ready for whatever the track or the street has to offer!

Hopefully this helps you guys/gals make a decision on your next suspension upgrade! Thanks for reading!


How-To: Install Cobb Tuning Short Shift Plate on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this shift plate directly from us HERE

We have always noticed that the throws on the factory shifting linkage was a little long on the Focus ST (it’s a lot like rowing a boat  ) So we decided to do something about this. We found out that COBB was designing a short shift plate a little while ago and we were anxiously awaiting its arrival to our facility so we could give it a try. Once we received one of the shift plates, we went ahead and installed it on our shop car White Sheep.

We gathered up the tools needed for the install:

1) Needle nosed pliers
2) 10mm open ended wrench
3) 3/8 ratchet
4) 3/8 Extension
5) Large flat tip screw driver (we show a smaller one here, but it isn’t what we used)
6) 10mm socket
7) 8mm socket
8) Permanent marker
9) The rest of the tools are supplied with the shift plate. Including Loctite!

A shot of everything that comes with the kit and what we gathered up

Now, let’s get to work! First thing we did was unplug the MAP harness and move it out of the way

Now undo the four 8mm screws holding the top of the air box on shown here circled in red.

Once those are loose, the top should pull right off. (keep in mind the screws are attached to the lid, don’t pull them out all the way)

Next, loosen the hose clamp that goes onto your intake piping (varies depending on what intake you have) Also, take the 10mm bolt out of the support holding the intake tubing to the head of the engine.

Now we can set the intake aside for now and move on

We need to mark the shifter weight in several places so we know exactly how it came off so we don’t install it incorrectly when we are ready to put it back on. So take your sharpie or other permanent marker and mark it properly.

Gently pry the shifter linkage off the shifter weight (it should pop off with a little bit of force)

Now there is a retainer pin that is in the side of the shifter weight that we must tap out with the supplied hex head bolt shown here

Now we can take our bolt and tap the pin out, you can use needle nose pliers here to hold the bolt, or, if you feel comfortable enough, you can hold the bolt like I did, just tap it out the back side slowly, try your best not to tap it out the back side and lose it in the engine bay, I held my hand on the back while tapping the front, it seemed to work out ok.

Here’s what the pin looks like

Slide the shifter weight off the shaft (it should be loose and easy to take off)

Here’s the marks on the shaft after pulling the weight off.

Slide the COBB Tuning short shift plate on the weight; it should only go on one way, like this

Turn the weight over, place the bottom plate on so the holes line up, they should only line up one way, shown here. Throw a dab of Loctite on the bolts before threading them in

Now we can take the supplied 3mm allen wrench and tighten down the bolts. Don’t go too crazy tightening them down, they should be tight, but not too tight. You should be able to feel when they snug down.

There’s the plate installed and ready for the next step

Put a dab of Loctite on the ball stud and thread it into the plate. Again, don’t go too tight, you will feel it bite into the nylon washer as you tighten it down. You have 2 positions you can place the ball stud, the one closest to the existing ball stud is 30% reduction while the one further away is 40%, we opted for the 30% reduction and it seems to work fine. You can try either one. (Keep in mind the more reduction you choose, the more effort it will take to shift)

Another dab of Loctite on the set screw and it is ready to thread into the side of the plate. Take the supplied allen wrench and tighten it down

It’s already ready to go back in the car! That was fast! Ok, place it back on the shaft making sure you line up the marks your marks you made prior to uninstallation. It should slip right back on.

Let’s tap the pin back in to hold it in place, we held it with the needle nosed pliers first to get it started, then we just tapped it the rest of the way in, once we couldn’t tap it in with just the hammer anymore, we grabbed the supplied hex head bolt and tapped it in about where it was when we started this uninstallation.

Pop the shift linkage on the ball stud.


Now we can start re-assembly, take the intake box and place it back in position

Tighten down the clamp on the take and replace the bolt anchoring the intake piping to the valve cover

Plug in your MAP sensor

Replace your rubber strap in front of the box that secures the fresh air inlet.

Now we just have to replace the four 8mm screws that hold the lid on the intake box and we’re all done!

So this was a very easy installation. All the people that have installed it will attest that it took a lot less time than expected. The change in shift length even at 30% is definitely noticeable. They is literally 30% less throw. Getting the transmission into the gears isn’t much different. I was expecting it to be a lot more difficult to get into gear, but that is just not the case. I ran it through all the gear quite aggressively and I can still bang every gear confidently without worrying about missing gears. This was a good upgrade; I think it’s almost a must if you like to grab gears quickly while accelerating. We are taking the sheep to the drag strip this Friday, we’ll see if we can improve some et’s and mph, We’ll report back when we have some data! Hopefully this tutorial will help you when you’re ready to install this plate on your car!



How-To: Install Rally Armor Mudflaps on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase these mud flaps directly from us HERE

This install was done on the floor with very minimal tools needed, so here’s a list of what we used:

1) Lug wrench (to pull the rear wheels off, the fronts stay on)
2) Flat tip screw driver
3) Phillips screw driver
4) T30 torx bit
5) Jack with jack stands.

Ok, so on to the install!

First things first, let’s take a look at just what comes in the package. Looks like some really nice mudflaps, install directions, and associated installation hardware.

Looks like there’s a LOT of hardware, but it’s not all that bad.

Ok, so the first step is to take the front fender liner retainer clips out, we’ll be removing the rear lower three retainer clips, just get a flat tip screw driver to pry the middle out and the whole clip will pull out of the fender

Now that those are out, pull the fender liner back and throw three of the round edge clips on these so the screws can thread into them:

Take the metal bracket and place it on the logo side of the mudflap and place it on the fender, you can see here that you will need one of the round edge clips on the lower inside hole of the metal bracket and use the washer and short screw to run through this location to help support the flap.

Now we can put the mudflap in place loosely for adjustment. Now you’ll want the mudflap parallel with the ground when installed so do your best to get it lined up before tightening down. Don’t forget the washers behind the screws used here

We can tighten them up once everything is all lined up and ready to go.

So, that’s it for the front, they look pretty good. Decent match to the wheels and seem to fit perfectly!

Now on to the back. These were just a bit more difficult than the front. I would say they took around twice as long to install than the fronts did. First thing you’ll want to do is get the back of the car in the air and put proper jack stands under to support it. Behind the wheel you will want to take the two t30 torx fasteners out. There is another hole that we have to make shown by the arrow in the image below. I just used a drill to open up a hole, make sure you make the hole big enough you have room to run the screw through and properly line up with the threads.

Take the two factory screw seats off shown here in the second picture you can see the hole where you need to place one of the three round edge clips that will be hidden behind the cover prior to drilling it out. After pulling the stock clips off, place three of the round edge clips in place

We can now mock up the mudflaps. You’ll want to run the long screw through with the metal support bracket on the label side, don’t forget the washers. Then you’ll need to place one of the long spacers and one of the shorter spacers between the mudflap and the mounting hole.

Now we can loosely place the mudflap to line it up before screwing it down

Now that we have it lined up, let’s screw it down! The push clips can go in now as well, the thin clip goes to the outside and clips into the support bracket, then the thick clip goes on the inside, shown here.

Ok, so that’s the rear, the rear flaps are a little bit wider than the fronts (which is preferred) and they look pretty good. What do you think?

The main reason we installed these flaps is to find out of they will help reduce the amount of debris and dust we get on the rear of the car. As you guys all know these little hatchbacks have a tendency to get a LOT of debris on the rear bumper and all over the back of the car. We will take some time and drive the car around, get some miles on it (we have a show in Nevada this weekend) and report back with our findings.

On another note, these things look a lot better than expected. They fit very well and the grey color accents the rest of the car nicely. Thanks for reading, hopefully this will help you out if you are going to install them on your car.


How-To: Install COBB Tuning Downpipe + Catback Exhaust on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this turbo back exhaust directly from us HERE

We decided that the White Sheep project ST was in need of some growl to go along with all of its bite. This car from the factory, as most of you know, has a very quiet stock exhaust tone because the engineers wanted all of us to hear their “symposer” as the sound of the engine. If you’re anything like most car enthusiasts, you would prefer to hear the engine itself over some engineer’s idea of preferred engine noise.

We thought for quite a while which exhaust was going to go on the ST. We listened to all of the available options out there and did our research and we opted for the COBB Tuning catted downpipe with the accompanying COBB Tuning cat-back exhaust. Once we got the exhaust in, we were pleasantly surprised with the overall build quality, and appearance of the product itself and were excited to get it installed and hear what it was all about. So we got to work tearing the old exhaust out and placing this nice looking exhaust in its place.

To start off, we’ll give you a list of tools you will need to perform this task:

1) 3/8 ratchet
2) Sockets: 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 15mm
3) Extensions of various lengths
4) T-30 torx bit
5) O2 sensor socket
6) Wrenches 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 15mm
7) Sawzall
8) PB Blast (or other lubricant to help with the exhaust hangers)

Ok, now that we have the tools gathered up, let’s get started! Here’s a quick look at what comes in the box. It really is a beautiful exhaust, too bad it spends its whole life under the car You can see in the image that it comes with several gaskets, there are gasket for aftermarket 3 inch downpipes (which we are using) and gaskets for the factory downpipe as well. There are also gaskets for using the stock exhaust with the COBB Tuning downpipe

So, here’s what we are dealing with and what so desperately needs to be upgraded, that factory exhaust.

Here’s a shot of the stock downpipe as well.

First thing we need to do is take the mid-chassis brace which has 2 10mm bolts holding it in place.

Now we need to break out the sawzall and cut the rear section of the exhaust where it bends up to clear the rear axle. You can see an approximate spot that we cut ours here

Here it is after the cut. This cut was really quick and easy.

Now that we got the stock exhaust cut, the rear section needs to come out first; there are three hangers that hold the rear section in place. One right up above the cut we just made, and two that are on each side of the muffler.

You can see the location of the three hangers here

Now that we have the exhaust all loosened up and free, you’ll need to pull it out from the rear of the car, it’s a little tricky, you might have to bend up a little of the heat shielding to get it out, once you have it out, set it aside and we’ll start working on the mid-section

To get the mid-section out, all we have to do is loosen the front two 15mm nuts from the studs at the bottom of the downpipe and there is one hanger in the middle of the mid-section and that’s it, it will fall out.

Now that we have the mid-section out and taking for granted that you plan on installing the downpipe at the same time as the exhaust, we’ll need to remove the Downpipe now. First thing we did, was remove the 6 15mm bolts/nuts holding the rear sub-frame cross brace.

Now we can loosen the v-band clamp holding the downpipe to the turbo, this was a little tricky to get loose and take the clamp off, but after just a little bit of persistence it will come loose.

Next, remove the 5 13mm nuts holding the support bracket on the downpipe and transmission (this will not be reused) don’t forget the one that’s somewhat hidden on the left of this image. We pointed it out so you know which one we’re talking about.

Now it’s time to remove the bolts holding the exhaust hanger on the subframe, it’s just two 10mm bolts shown here

We are finished underneath for the time being, let’s move up top and get some things done up there, first thing you want to do is remove your upper intake pipe, we have the COBB Tuning intake so this might not be the same as everyone here, but it will definitely give you a good idea of what’s next. Just loosen the brackets and clamps holding your intake pipe in place and remove it and set it aside.

Now, the tricky part, getting the O2 sensors unplugged, we didn’t remove the cowl so we just reached behind and followed the wires to the plugs and unplugged both O2 sensors. We couldn’t get a very good image of this but they are both located towards the driver’s side of the engine. Now that they are unplugged, let’s get that downpipe out! It should just pull right out, watch the wire for the O2 sensors, they have a tendency to catch on things as you pull the pipe out.

Well, the first steps are done, here’s a shot of the whole system, out of the car.

While swapping the O2 sensors over to the new COBB Tuning Downpipe, make sure you put them in the correct place.

Be sure you put the hanger on the new downpipe on correctly; it should slide easily off then back on.

There is a little round steel gasket that was on the stock downpipe, be sure you place this on your new downpipe to ensure a tight seal to the turbo

When we were sliding the new downpipe up in place, we placed the v-band clamp on the flange so we didn’t have to try to fight it after it was up there.

Now we can fish it up in there and put it in place. Get the v-band clamp snug and bolt the hanger to the subframe, don’t forget to plug in your 2 O2 sensors!

Now, let’s move on to the exhaust! You’ll want to start off by installing the mid-pipe that has the mufflers and S-bend. Loosely bolt it in place using the appropriate gaskets and supplied 14mm bolts/nuts. You’ll only want to finger tighten these while you work the rear of the mid-pipe into the exhaust hanger. We used a little bit of PB blast here to promote ease of install in the hangers.

Next will be the over axle section of exhaust, here you might have to bend a little bit of the heat shielding out of the way to get it to squeeze in there. It’s a tight fit, but it will go. Be patient. Install the supplied 14mm hardware loosely as getting the tips straight and centered relies greatly on the repositioning of all the hangers and couplers prior to final tightening.

We can install the tip section of the exhaust now! Slide it into the two hangers and use the supplied hardware to connect it to the over axle section, don’t forget the gasket! This is when you will want to start at the front of the exhaust and work your way to the tips tightening everything and making sure your tips are centered as you go

This is where it’s very nice to have someone helping you; they can tighten and adjust the hangers and bolts while you adjust the tips into place. When we first got it all in place the tips were hanging way down, after just a little bit of adjustment, they were perfect!

Man, those dual 4 inch tips sure are amazing! Sorry for the dirty car I detailed the car shortly after installing the exhaust.

Man, this exhaust really is good looking. The fit and finish is very impressive.

Now that we have all of that installed and ready to go, let’s take it out for a drive. The sound, I have to say I was expecting it to be tinny, harsh and perhaps a little louder than I wanted honestly, as I myself, have never ran a COBB Tuning exhaust on any of my cars. After we got this installed, we fired it up and I was pleasantly surprised with the initial tone and volume of the sound. It was loud enough that you knew there was a performance exhaust on there, but it wasn’t so loud that it bothered me. So, of course the next step would be to rev it up, right? So revving it up in neutral gives you even more reason to really like this exhaust! The sound I would say gives you visions of perhaps a European sports car; it’s throaty, not cheap, tinny sounding. I know COBB put a lot of time and effort into this exhaust and you can definitely tell by the sound, build quality, and overall functionality of it. After installing the turbo back exhaust we applied the appropriate tune and took it for a drive. I don’t know if it was the exhaust tone, or if there is that big of a difference, but it seems to be quite a bit happier. Cruising down the highway at 70 mph, there is zero drone, when you drop the throttle there is an aggressive increase in volume and power comes on hard. It seems like the throttle response has improved as well. Again, I don’t know if it is just a mental thing, but it honestly feels like this made a pretty big difference. We are taking it to the dyno soon to get some more numbers and we will post up the results as soon as we get them. We made a little video so you guys could get an idea of what it sounds like, I think the video gives you a pretty good idea of the sound of the exhaust, but it doesn’t give you the full experience. This exhaust truly is impressive. Thanks for reading, and watching!

Thank You,


How-To: Install COBB Tuning FMIC on 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase this FMIC directly from us HERE

First, a little blurb about the intercooler:

The COBB Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) for your Focus ST is the easiest way to drastically improve power when coupled with tuning from the Accessport. Even when stock, the factory FMIC can be overwhelmed with heatsoak. By using a 57% larger core with streamlined piping, your Focus ST will come alive with charge air that’s up to 100 DEGREES COOLER. After removing the grill shutters and drilling 2 simple holes, this FMIC requires no other modification for an easy installation with the included custom silicone adapters. Off the shelf maps are available for the Ford Focus ST Accessport so it’s tuned right out of the box!!

And a little technical information:

Core End Tank Material: Aluminum
Core Type: Bar and Plate
Core Depth: 3.5in
Core Width: 24in
Core Height: 8in

Now, on to the install! (the fun part)

Let’s collect the tools needed to do this properly:

1) Drill bits sizes ¼” and 15/32” (you’ll want to buy some really good quality bits, preferably titanium)
2) Drill(s) (these will get a lot of use, if cordless make sure you have a good supply of batteries handy)
3) Drilling lubricant.
4) Flat head screwdriver (for releasing clips)
5) Permanent Marker (for marking your holes prior to drilling)
6) Ratchet(s)
7) Wrenches: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm
8) Sockets: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 19mm
9) T-30 torx bit and a T-25 torx (for the MAP sensor)
10) 6mm, 4mm allen wrenches

Now that we have our tools, let’s get to work. First things first, get the car in the air either put it up on a lift, or jackstands.

Next you want to pull the “oh-so-familiar” under-tray off there are a few screws to take off including three that hold the front air deflector/lip on. The three marked with arrows you will have to take off as well to remove the front clip. You can do that now, or later it’s up to you.

Now we will want to move to the fender wells and get the fender liners out so we have room to get to the fender retainer clips. There are seven screws and three clips in the well itself. Also, there are two other screws that are screwed in vertically that help hold them in there as well. The arrow points to the location of the vertical scerws.

Here’s a shot of the three clips on the rear lip of the driver’s side fender well

And here’s a shot of the two screws that go in vertically on the front of the fender well.

Now the fender well should be ready to be removed, wiggle it around and pull it out then set it aside for now.

Now, you’ll want to pull the fog light clip off the light itself here.

Basically repeat the process on the passenger side.

Now to move under the hood and get the headlights out. Here’s a shot of the front screw holding the headlight in place and one of the two screws holding the top of the front clip in place.

Now the rear headlight mount screw.

Don’t forget to unclip the plug that powers the headlights. A small flat tip screwdriver will take care of that, just push the clip backwards and it should slide right off.

Now we can move on to the 10mm bolts on the fender retainer clips. You don’t have to remove these, just loosen them enough to pull the fender free from the clip.

Take the hood release handle off, it takes a little patience, but a small screwdriver makes it much easier.

Now the top clips (4), holding the front clip on, can be removed. Just pry the tops up and pull the clips out.

Unplug the foglights and foglight harness.

Now we can remove the front clip. There are a couple of big retainers you just have to lightly pry up and you can slide it right off.

Set it aside for now and we’ll get back to it later.

Now there are some shrouds in front of the shutters that we need to get off. The top shroud just pops off. There’s two clips that hold it in place.

The lower shroud and middle brace are held on by 2 T-30 torx.

Once loose, the middle support can come off

Then the lower shroud

Now we’ll want to unclip the harness going to the shutter system, it’s on the driver’s side by the intercooler.

Unscrew the clamps holding the intercooler couplers to the intercooler

The intercooler should pull right out along with the shutter system.

Here’s a comparison shot of the stock vs COBB FMIC

Make sure you have all your parts that come with the kit by laying them out and comparing it to the documentation.

Since we didn’t have the dimple they mention in the COBB instruction, we placed the intercooler in it destination for lining things up.

Mark your holes and start the fun part, DRILLING! This will take you a while, but with some patience and persistence you will eventually get through.

If you have some help, while you’re drilling the holes, you can have someone start plumbing the intercooler piping.

We had to loosen the radiator support bracket and drill out the rivet to get the passenger side pipe in place

Don’t forget to pull the factory MAP sensor off your stock intercooler and put it on your new COBB intercooler. This takes a T-25 torx to remove and a 4mm allen wrench to install.

Now that you have wasted a good chunk of the install drilling two holes, it’s time to place the intercooler and bolt it in place.

Now we can finish up out intercooler piping install.

Lets put this thing back together shall we? It has been asked a few times on the forum about the shrouds, we replaced them both, as they are designed to route the incoming air to the appropriate areas.

Bolt everything down and have your trusty inspector double check your work

Now all we have to do is button things up, install the COBB stage 2 map and go for a drive!



How-To: Install Turbosmart BOV Kompact Dual Port on Ford Focus ST 2013-2014

Purchase this BOV directly from us HERE

Here’s a little blurb from Turbosmart:

“Created in 2010, the Kompact range of BOVs offer more versatility, higher performance, OEM fitment and less cost – everything you need. Kompact Series BOVs have been designed as a bolt-on replacements, offering superior flow, and greater structural integrity under boost – they will not give up.”

This BOV comes with shims for those vehicles that have a large amount of vacuum (which our cars do not) The spring itself is good for us, since you can adjust this BOV simply by twisting the top of the body itself, rotate it clockwise for a harder spring rate (for those of you at sea level) and counter-clockwise for a softer spring rate (for those in higher elevation) The purpose of this design is so you have a perfectly tuned BOV that will perform exactly how you would like it to. We left ours at the factory setting which seemed to be somewhere close to the middle.

So, on to our install/how to!

A few things you will need for this install:

1) Wobble socket adaptor
2) 3/8 drive ratchet
3) 3/8 drive extension
4) 5 mm allen key and socket
5) Crescent wrench
6) Needle nose pliers
7) Flat tip screw driver
8) Thread locker (for the bolts holding the BOV in place)

Now that we have gathered the tools needed for this install, let’s get started!

1) First thing you will need to do is get the car off the ground and secure it with either jack stands, or in this case, we were lucky enough to have a lift to use.
2) Take the passenger front wheel/tire off to access the factory BPV.

You can see it fairly plainly once you get under there to inspect. It’s a simple plastic housing with a rubber diaphragm and spring.

Get a little closer and you can get a better look at its location.

Here you can clearly see the three bolts securing it in place. They are 5 mm allen bolts and are fairly easy to get to. The only one that might give you just the slightest bit of trouble will be the bottom right as its proximity to the axle support bracket can be a little tight.

3) Now let’s get that vacuum line loose and pull it out of the way, another easy task, just simply squeeze the clamp with some needle nose pliers and pull it back and the hose will pull right off.

We just slid it to the side to get it out of the way as we won’t be needing this till we put the new BOV in place.

4) Time to pull those three bolts loose and get this factory BPV detached so we can get the new BOV in!

5) Now that we have the old BPV out of the way, let’s take a look at it’s replacement. Turbosmart always does such a great job of packaging. We chose the Dual Port design so we can have the option to have it vent to the atmosphere and recirculate. You can change this just by rotating the base of the body to close or open the vent port.

Here’s what comes with the product, there is an install cd with instructions on how to install it (not pictured) it contains a .pdf file with explanations of how to do it and what all those “washers” are for. Turns out the washers are the shims for higher vacuum situation that you would need to install if you were in need of them. We did not install any of them because our cars should work fine with the factory settings on the BOV

Here’s a good comparison view of the stock BPV vs the Turbosmart BOV you can see there is a substantial difference! You can also see the dual port design above the mounting flange.

6) Now, on to the install! You have to move a few things out of the way while installing the new BOV it’s a little tricky, but nothing terribly difficult. Slide it in place:

7) Then slip the support bracket for the wiring harness over the BOV and seat the valve in place. DON’T let the rubber O-ring seal slip out of it’s seat while doing this. Ours fell out and I had to put it back in, but once it was back in, it was good to go.

9) Throw the bolts in place and tighten them down ( We searched for torque specs but came up empty handed)

10) You can see here the issue with the vacuum line. It is designed from the factory to go straight into the vacuum port and here, the new BOV has the barb facing a 90 degree angle.

11) As it turns out, the factory line works just fine, it’s flexible enough that it slid right in to place without having to force anything, the only difficulty we had was getting the hose clamp in place, and even that wasn’t difficult

So, there you have it, all ready to go, installed and looking very good! Now let’s take it out and go for a drive to see what it sounds like!

Also available from RallySport Direct the Full recirculating blow off valve. If you would like to just retain the factory functionality with a better valve, that will perform more reliably at higher boost than the stock valve, this is the choice for you. *the dual port BOV will do re-circulation AND vent to atmosphere*



How-To: Install Lamin-X Headlight Cover on a 2013-2014 Ford Focus ST

Purchase these headlight covers directly from us HERE

We went with the yellow Lamin-X covers because we like the “Track Car” look, and that’s the look we are going for with this car. Another good benefit of having headlight covers is the protection you get from road debris and other impacts. While installing these, we found the material to be fairly thick, and pliable while working with a heat gun.

First things first, let’s get the tools gathered up. You’ll need:

1) A heat gun
2) The Squeegee that comes with the film
3) The spray bottle with some water in it. (it comes with the kit empty, you’ll just want to put some in it)
4) Patience, this is the main tool you will need. These things take time to lay flat.

1) Ok, to start off, you will want a clean surface to work with, so take a clean towel, we used a microfiber towel, and wipe it down with some water sprayed on the surface. You don’t want any chemicals under the film as it may cause adhesion issues later on.

There we go, nice and pretty! Ready for some work.

2) Now, you’ll want to lay the film out on a flat surface.

You can see that the film doesn’t lay very flat right out of the bag.

3) The answer here, is HEAT! Don’t get too excited with your heat gun (a hair dryer would work as well) if you stay in one spot too long, or apply too much heat to one spot you could deform the film, just be careful and you’ll do great!

4) Now that we have it warm, flat and somewhat pliable, you’ll need to peel the tape off the back of the material and spray it down while you do this (we did this twice and for some reason, we didn’t get pictures of it either time) Just spray it down a bit as you peel the backing off to keep it from sticking permanently.

5) Now, do your initial placement, this more than likely will not be the final placement as you will have to massage it on quite a bit, this is more of an idea of what we are up against.

6) You can see it’s not so pretty to begin with. That’s ok, we can peel it back and work it on. Run your fingers across that main big flat surface on the front of the headlight and work your way around the big compound curve in the middle. This is very time consuming, so be patient.

We’re getting closer, just keep working it, and slowly applying heat long the way.

7) Ok, so one is down, there will be quite a few imperfections to begin with, they will work out slowly with the sun and the heat from your headlights.

8) You can go along the edges and push with your squeegee to work the water out and push it down in to place.

9) Here’s a pretty good shot of the color difference, you can definitely see the difference, you can also tell that the light output isn’t really reduced much, just a different color, just what we were looking for.

10) You can see the appearance from the front, the yellow looks pretty good on the headlights!

11) Now, on to the passenger side, and we experienced the same thing we do every time we do anything on both side of the car, the second side always goes more smoothly!

12) This is a pretty good shot of what the film looks like when finished. You can see all the imperfections in this shot, don’t be discouraged, they will work out slowly.

13) They look pretty good. Can’t wait to get them to work all those imperfections out, they will look even better!

14) Now as they list in the instructions that come with the product, there will be a little bit of trimming involved. No big deal, get a nice, sharp blade and trim that excess off!

You can see the little bit of trimming that we had to do, there wasn’t much, maybe an 1/8th – ¼ inch.

Now that we have it all done, let’s take a look! WOW, they really do make a difference. I like the look of the yellow film on a white car.

Thanks for reading, and we hope this is a helpful tutorial for those of you thinking about installing these on your car!


How-To: Install COBB Tuning Intake on 2013 Ford Focus ST

You can purchase this Intake directly from us HERE

Here are some specs for you:

Mfgr. Warranty: 1 year
Filter Color: Blue
Filter Element Type: Wet
Filter Material: Cotton
Filter Reusable: Yes
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Aluminum
Tuning Required: No

And here’s what RallySport Direct has to say about it:

The COBB Intake for the Focus ST takes a great airbox design and makes it even better! They improved upon the factory airbox ram air ducting by including an oiled dual cone filter to increase airflow and to hear that great turbo sound. The constrained piping to the turbo is replaced with 3″ mandrel bent aluminum tubing to maximize air flow while custom silicone couplers ensure a perfect OEM-like fitment. The COBB Intake is the perfect first step towards Stage 2 power levels when paired with the COBB FMIC!

Tools needed:

Sockets: 9/32, 5/16, deep 12 mm
3/8 ratchet
¼ ratchet, with extensions

Next on the list for the White Sheep project car is a Cobb intake. We documented this install as best we could, our camera was dead so there won’t be a lot of pictures, but we’ll explain as we go.
First, here’s the stock intake. You can see it’s somewhat unsightly. So what we needed to do to get this off is take out the mount for the engine cover on the left in this picture, and the two other bolts pictured, it made it a lot easier to disassemble the intake to get it out so undo the hose clamps to get it to come apart.

We took the cam angle controller line off and moved it out of the way, the only thing you need to do to get it loose is pinch the two sides of it and it pulls right off. Then we pulled the cover off the intake box, exposing the stock filter element. It just pulls out of the airbox. There are 4 screws that hold the airbox together, two are pictured here, and two are slightly out of the shot. You will also need to take the sensor off the elbow going into the airbox. All of these screws are a simple 5/16. Next we pulled the hose clamps loose to make them all easier to pull off. There are two screws holding the elbow to the airbox, don’t forget to pull them loose prior to getting the elbow off the car.

Once we have all the stock intake stuff out of the way (there is a hose clamp that takes a 9/32 socket on the turbo inlet on the back of the engine, it was somewhat tricky to get to, but not so bad) we needed to start putting the Cobb parts in place. Here you can see we placed the intake hard pipe. It slipped right into place, the only trick we found that helped was putting the silicone coupler on the turbo inlet prior to putting the hard pipe in place. It would be a bit more difficult to do it after the fact. So, here’s a picture of the progress so far, looks good:

You can see in this image the mounting location for the bolt that they supply in the kit that comes with the intake. Don’t mount this quite yet, you’ll want to make sure you get everything in place and ready to go, then bolt it down. We show you in this picture the mounting locations for the air box, we found it much easier to get the coupler and the stock elbow mounted with the airbox out of the way. Just pull the rubber covers off of the front air inlets and give the airbox a little tug and it will come out. Place the coupler than came with the kit on the end of the hard pipe, slide the factory elbow on, put the airbox back in, get your angle right. Slide it into the airbox, replace the two screws that hold the elbow in the airbox, and fit the green filter on the end in the airbox. Now tighten that clamp down and replace the top of the airbox.

After all that, here’s what you’ll end up with. Looks clean, performs well, sounds great.

You can see then end of the filter is open, as opposed to the factory filter has a closed end. This makes the bypass valve much more noticeable. You can hear the turbo a lot more now.

Well, now that we finished that up, take the car out for a drive and flog it a few times and you will instantly know that you changed the intake. I mean the sound has improved 10 fold. As far as performance goes, I can’t really say if there is a noticeable gain in power since we haven’t had it on a dyno, but there is definitely more air going into the turbo. All in all, we are very happy with this install. It wasn’t terribly difficult to do, and it is fairly inexpensive. Thank you for taking the time to read our write up on the Cobb intake, we look forward to getting some more products installed and giving you our opinion on them all!

Corby Lines