How-To: Install Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Roll Center Adjustment Kit directly from us HERE

 
We took our employee’s 2013 BRZ out to the shop to install the Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit for the 2013-2014 Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ. So we looked online to find the installation instructions and decided we would make a fairly comprehensive write-up for you!

Going into this, pressing the ball joint out and back in seemed a little difficult, but once we got started, they pressed right out, and right back in. Guess that’s the beauty of having a new car to work on  . Before we get started let’s see what Whiteline has to say about this product:

Roll Center Kit incorporates 2 steering arm tie rod ends and 2 ball joints and is designed to raise front roll-center geometry after lowering the vehicle and also improve on the original bump-steer geometry. Changing front suspension geometry by raising roll-center, results in substantial increase to roll resistance and significant reduction of suspension compression of outside front wheel during cornering through improved weight transfer distribution. Whilst bump steer correction via extended tie rods aids in minimizing steering angle input during suspension articulation.
So we looked around the shop and found that the only thing we didn’t have was the press kit to press the ball joints out. So every other tool we needed was just laying around to make it easy on us. Here’s what we ended up using.

Keep in mind; you will have to get your car off the ground, securely on jack stands and front tires/wheels off the car to do this installation.

1) ½ in drive ratchet
2) Extensions
3) 17mm, 19mm sockets
4) Vice grips (for that pesky cotter pin removal)
5) Needle nosed pliers
6) Flat tip screw driver (small)
7) Drill with 10mm driver and 12mm driver (for removal of under tray)
8) Pickle fork
9) Hammer
10) Impact (not necessary, but makes things easier)
Here’s a picture of most of the tools we used. We didn’t use the pry bar, but it made it into the picture somehow.

Ok, now we’re getting somewhere. Since we didn’t have the press toll required to press out the bushings, we ran down to Autozone and grabbed one of these, it worked great!

Now that we have all of the necessary tools, let’s get started. First thing we need to take off is the under tray of the car to gain access to the bolts to take the lower control arm off. It’s simply 8 12mm bolts, 4 10mm bolts and 6 plastic clips and it comes right off. Be careful as it might just fall off when you get the last bolt loose.


To get the clips off, simply slide a small flat tip screwdriver in the head and pop it out and it should slide right out.


There are five nuts/bolts that need to come off to get the lower control arm out. Some are 19mm and some are 17mm you see which is which once you get started. Here’s a shot of the control arm from below that shows you roughly where they are.

Bend the cotter pin as such that it slides out from the hole.


Now take the castle nut off.

Now that the nut is loose, just tap the top of the ball joint being careful not to damage the threads, and it should pop right out.

Now we can move to the front of the car and undo the bolt and nut that holds the front/lower control arm bushing in place.

Pull the pin out of the ball joint that connects to the hub spindle.


Then, simply break the nut loose and thread it off.

Now take your pickle fork and spread the ball joint loose. This shouldn’t take a whole lot of effort.

Now we can move on to the rear bolt/nut. Just get a ratchet on one end and wrench on the other and it should come right out.

We loosened the tie rod end locking nut while it was still installed because it will be a lot easier to to it on the car, than trying to hold it while doing it off the car

We took our sharpie to mark the threads on the tie rod to make sure we got as close as we could to factory specifications when reinstalling the new tie rod ends.

Now that we have it loose, let’s go ahead and pull it out. The whole assembly is now ready to come out of the car.

Just wiggle it a little bit and it will come right out.

Then we threaded the tie rod ends off and grabbed out new Whiteline replacements! Man, they look good. You can definitely see the height difference from stock to these replacements. That’s what it’s all about!

Installation of these is extremely simple, just thread them back on the tie rod in place of the stockers keeping in mind the marks you made on your threads to line them up as close to factory specs as possible.


Phew, now the fun part begins

First thing you need to do before removing the factory ball joints is getting the dust boot off. Just take a flat tip screw driver and work your way around the boot prying upward and it will come off. There will be quite a bit of grease when you get it off, just wipe it off with a rag.

After that’s done, we can take the ball joint tool out of our press kit and press the old one out, we had the #2 sleeve on the bottom with the ball joint tool and the #3 sleeve on the top to press it out. It worked pretty slick. It seemed like it wasn’t going to work at first, but it slowly worked right out. Be patient here.

Now that we have the old one out of the way, let’s press the new one in. this is VERY simple; pull it through from the bottom like this

Now put the #2 sleeve on the bolt side and press it in straight on the ball joint itself. Be sure to press it all the way in, there shouldn’t be any gap

Here we are placing the assembly back onto the car. It seemed to be easiest to slide the forward most bushing in place first, and then slide the rear one in, then work on the ball joint into the spindle.

Line up the hole in the rear of the control arm and slide the bolt in and thread the nut. Don’t tighten it down just yet.

Take your front bolt/nut/plate and replace them in the front position, keep these loose as well (for now)

Then slide the ball joint into the hub assembly might be slightly tricky, but it will slide in.

Place the tie rod end in the rear of the spindle.

Thread on all respective nuts and tighten them to factory specifications.

You can replace the under tray and you’re ready to go! That wasn’t so bad, was it? Now you can enjoy the benefits of having the Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit installed! Get your car on the track and experience the difference this product makes in handling!

 

Thanks,

Corby

 

 

How-To: Install Air Lift Air Suspension on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Air Lift Suspension directly from us HERE

Approaching this install it seemed fairly intimidating at first, but once we got started and figured out where we were going to install everything, and route our air lines and wires, it all came together nicely.

Here’s what Air Lift has to say about the kit specific for the FR-S and BRZ:

Get the stance you want and the performance you need with Air Lift’s Performance air suspension kits! Every kit they offer is fully engineered to properly fit your vehicle, provide unmatched static drop, and deliver ride and handling capability that exceeds factory suspensions. No other lowering suspension provides a more versatile package for daily use.

Get your BRZ or FR-S down! With 4″ of drop and all the versatility of air, the Air Lift Performance kit is the best choice for show stance, daily driving AND track performance. Get the looks you crave with the performance you need!

The sleek V2 controller is protected in a rugged, rubberized coating to help protect against the occasional drops and scratches. Display readout shows, individual corner air pressure and tank pressure. You can select your pressures to be displayed in PSI, or for our friends across the pond, we now have an option for BAR!! To give you the ultimate in personalization of your system we have loaded the multi-color display with 512 color combinations! Believe it or not all of this technology fits in the palm of your hand and only takes one wire to connect to your wire harness.

Not only does the V2 give you 8 different presets to tailor to your ride heights needs, but it also “learns” your vehicle to provide incredible accuracy with every push of the button. As you roll low, the V2 will constantly monitor your pressures and adjust accordingly to your presets. V2 also allows you to control your system manually, for the ultimate in independent 4 corner adjustment. With the raise on start feature, you won’t even have to touch the controller! Fully laid out? Raise to your ride height as soon as you turn on your ride and you’re ready to go.

You want diagnostics? Well V2 has diagnostics! With a touch of a button you can check compressor performance and compressor run times. The system will also alert you to a leak, a low pressure situation, communication failure or if there is something wrong with your valve.

Installation could not be easier! Mount your components, hook up 3 wires, plug in the OEM quality harness and you are ready to go. The detailed instruction manual will take you through the calibration and ride height preset process. Each V2 is 100% function and leak tested at the factory after assembly, so you can cruise the streets in confidence!

Kit Features: 
Drop = 4″+
Durable double bellows springs
30-level damping adjustable monotube struts
Adjustable front camber plates
Anodized red aluminum accents
Powdercoated gloss black steel brackets
Braided stainless steel leader hoses
1/4″ & 3/8″ PTC fittings
All mounting hardware
Detailed instruction manual
AutoPilot V2 Digital Controller
1/4″ Air Line
Advanced Air Lift Manifold
Viair 380 Compressor
5 Gallon Powder Coated Steel Tank
Air Lift’s 1-year warranty and excellent customer support

To achieve full drop chassis modifications may be required to your car.

Now that we have a pretty good idea what to expect when it’s completed, let’s gather up the tools to get this thing installed:
1) Ratchets 3/8” and ½” drive
2) Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm ,22mm
3) Wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 9/16, 5/8, 7/8, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm
4) Impact gun ½” drive
5) Dikes/pliers/needle nose pliers
6) Small flat tip screw driver, regular flat tip screw driver
7) Phillips screw driver

Ok, so we got together all the things we have to install on his car, keep in mind, there are more things here, than what come with the kit. We replaced the tank with a different one that he had previously on another car. So some of the pictures won’t quite match up with what you have to install.

Here are the boxes of goodies we had to install for the day. Only 3 of the boxes are the Air Lift kit.

Here’s a shot of most of what comes in the kit. Keep in mind, we used a different tank (read smaller), so our install photos will have a different tank.

Well now, let’s get to it. First thing, pull the rear spare tire cover out so we can get the spare tire out and see what we have to work with for mounting the tank.

Now let’s get these interior panels pulled out so we see what room we have to work with and where we can route the air lines and wires.

Take your flat tip screwdriver and pop the plastic clips loose and pull the rear plastic cover off.

Next we need to get the side panel carpet off. Just undo these clips and they will simply pull right out.

On the driver’s side panel you have the trunk release wiring clip you will want to undo before pulling it out, just squeeze the white clip and it pulls right out.

Now we spent a little time trying to figure out where to mount the tank/pump/controller assembly before we finally decided to mount it to the rear of the car with the pump and controller facing the front of the car. Some of these pictures might show it facing the other direction, but not to worry it was just us test fitting the tank.

Here we are fitting the pump and controller assembly to the mounts for the tank we installed. This is what we opted for, you can use whatever works for you in your specific installation.

You can see in this image how we routed the air line out of the pump and into the tank, this seemed to be the most feasible way to route it in our situation with the tank we used. You might find an easier/better solution if you use the tank that comes in the kit. You’ll notice on the right of the tank in this picture, we have the outlet going from the tank to the valve controller. There is a schematic that plainly and simply explains how to hook all the lines up to the valve body. You’ll want to hook the outlet of the tank to the slide lock fitting second from the right, as the right-most slide lock fitting is the exhaust for the system. On the bottom side, we routed the drain fitting with a Schrader valve at the end so we wouldn’t experience any leaks. All of this is clearly explained in the manual. All of the bung holes that are not going to be used will have to be plugged with the appropriate plug. (If using the tank that came with the kit, it comes with plugs that you can use. Don’t forget to use the supplied thread sealant when placing any fitting or plugs to avoid leaks!

Here we are placing some of the fittings to the pump, this is showing us threading in the air inlet filter barb.

We drilled through the floor to mount the tank/controller/pump assembly and mounted it with four bolts. It seems to be stable and didn’t create much vibration because of the vibration isolators in the pump mount.

Since we have the pump/controller/tank assembly mounted, now we need to start on the wiring. Power and ground from the controller harness connects straight to the pump with a simple two wire hookup. We opted for the butt connector route. You can solder/heat wrap if you choose, either way works. You can see in this image we had to snip off the provided ends off to get to the wires to butt them together.

Everything in this kit is clearly marked on the wire itself so it’s basically plug n play.

Next we routed the harness and the controller display to the front (controller we routed to the center console and drilled through the bottom of the tray and ran the wires through and left the display loose so we can move it around. We thought about mounting it on the dash, but it we thought it would be more versatile being loose.

Here we are routing the wiring harness towards the front of the car, we took the bolt out that holds the rear seat in place so we can have easy access to the routing location we chose.

Lift the seat up and you can see how we routed the harness through. There is a nice groove in the floor pan that the wires rested in perfectly. So we pulled them through there.

Then we had to pop the side panel off so we could tuck the wire through the side as to not have it showing throughout the car. It simply pops loose from the side of the car and it gives you access to pull the wire through

Pop the door sill off and that give you access to the under carpet routing for the wires. You’ll have to pull the rubber seal off the door jamb to pull it back and slip the harness through.

Here you can see the process of the wire routing. Fairly simple, just take your time to tuck them properly so they don’t leave lumps in the carpet. It should be seamless.

Under the hood, you can see here where we went through the firewall. To get through this you will need a fish tool of some sort. Just fish the tool down from under the hood, tape the wire to the fish, and pull it through.

Now, as we were passing the battery, we have to pull the power and ground wires out of the loom so we can hook them straight up to the battery with the provided loops. Just cut the tape on the loom to pull the wire out to the proper length then you will want to separate the ignition wire from the power/ground wires. Then route the ignition wire to the fuse box in the front passenger side of the engine bay.
You’ll want to do this as clean as possible so try to route the wires along the factory harness and keep it clean!

They give you a couple of fuse tap clips with this kit. We decided to utilize one for the sake of this write-up. They are easy enough to use, just make sure you use the side of the fuse that is before the fuse so you don’t over load the existing fuse. And also, be sure to use the provided fuse block in the kit. Slide the tap onto the fuse and press it back in the slot.

We used the lower most fuse, closest to the fender, located in the fuse box under the hood, we used this fuse because it has power while cranking but no power when the ignition is off. We had to drill a small hole to get the wire through the top of the box.

Now we can hook up the battery positive and ground. Be sure to utilize the fuse block on your positive wire. Use the provided loops to attach them to the battery terminals bolts.

Now that we have all the wiring done, let’s move onto the struts install! We did the rear first. Simple enough, three nuts hold the strut in place; take the top two off first:

Then, on to the lower bolts, this will differ a bit from your install because we installed Cusco rear lateral links. So we took all of these bolts out. It made removing the strut a breeze.

Now when you pull the rear lateral links off, the whole assembly will come with it including the strut, so be careful not to drop it!

The new struts are so much shorter prior to airing up the bag, you will have to jack the assembly up into place so you can thread the two top nuts on.

Next on the list, replacing the front struts. Should be simple enough, let’s get to it! Three nuts on the top strut mount.

We will be replacing the end links with the ones provided in the kit. You will want to completely remove the factory end link. You will have one nut up top and one on the bottom. The end links should come off with ease.

Get the brake line retainers off by removing the single bolt holding it to the strut. Also, remove the abs sensor wiring by pulling the two clips off of the strut as well.

Slide the new struts in place of the old ones and bolt them up (you will need to get an alignment asap after installing these as you would installing anything suspension related) Now we can start running our air lines. Use the provided stainless steel lines on the front struts. Thread them into the bag assembly on the rear of the strut. You will have to drill a hole into the fender well to get the hose to go safely through into the engine bay to meet up with the air lines we run up front.

Put this fitting on the end of the stainless line so you can hook the air line to it using the slide lock connector.

Now the provided end links should be pretty close to adjusted properly straight out of the box. Make sure they are close to the same length before you mount them. It’s easier to tighten the nuts on the end link after they are installed, do so after they are mounted up.

Back to the back! Now we can start feeding the air lines! This is exciting! This is a good time to have someone that can help you by feeding the lines down through the holes while you drag the lines and feed them to the appropriate corner. Make sure you’re marking the lines as you run them so you don’t forget which is which.

As we ran the lines under the car, we attached them to the fuel lines. We just zip tied the two that go up front to them. We tried to make the install as seamless and clean as possible. You can see the routing of our front passenger side air line here. It turned out really clean!

Now we have all four corners ran!

Let’s clean them up a bit. This car has existing rubber plugs in the spare tire well which makes this part easy. Just poke a hole through and shove the wires through and admire how clean it turns out!

The instructions that come with the kit have a nice, simple to follow schematic for hooking up the lines, so all you have to do is make sure you have the properly marked line, run them as cleanly as possible, cut them to length, and slide them in the appropriate push lock connection on the valve body controller.

Phew! That was fun wasn’t it?! Now we get to do the fun part, calibrating the system! Sit the car on the floor, and follow the instructions on how to calibrate it. It takes about 20 minutes to calibrate and the car will go up and down several times. You can see the rear down here:

And the front here. Keep in mind; we have not adjusted the heights yet, so the front is sitting a little higher than the rear. We didn’t have time to get it all set properly. But this kit will go LOW! The rear can come down a little more and the front can come down a LOT more.

All in all, I would say the install is very easy. I had never installed an air bag kit before and I was excited and nervous to try. The thing that took us the longest time was properly mounting the tank/pump/controller assembly. After that, it was cake! Total time for this install (keep in mind, we tried documenting as much as we could so that takes time) was around 8 hours. If you have installed these components before I could see you possibly cutting the install time in half. Good luck and enjoy the new, lower ride!

Thanks,

Corby

How-To: Install Whiteline Anti LIft Kit on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Anti LIft Kit directly from us HERE

We took our employee’s 2013 BRZ out to the shop to install the Whiteline Anti Lift Kit for the 2013-2014 Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ. So we looked online to find the installation instructions and decided we would make a fairly comprehensive write-up for you!

Going into this, pressing the bushings out and back in seemed a little difficult, but once we got started, they pressed right out, and right back in. Guess that’s the beauty of having a new car to work on. Before we get started let’s see what Whiteline has to say about this product:

The Whiteline Anti Dive Kit is designed to add 0.5 deg static positive caster to both front wheels while changing the nature of front anti-dive & lift. These low compliance bushings also maintain higher dynamic positive caster & change the front control arm geometry that positively influences front suspension attitude. This leads to superior traction under power and braking, including cornering, dramatically reducing under steer & front wheel spin. The additional caster coupled with the new firmer bushings supplied serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response then forcing more consistent alignment angles through the corner due to the reduced bushing compliance.

So we looked around the shop and found that the only thing we didn’t have was the press kit to press the bushings out. So every other tool we needed was just laying around to make it easy on us. Here’s what we ended up using.

Keep in mind; you will have to get your car off the ground, securely on jack stands and front tires/wheels off the car to do this installation.

1) ½ in drive ratchet
2) Extensions
3) 17mm, 19mm sockets
4) Vice grips (for that pesky cotter pin removal)
5) Needle nosed pliers
6) Flat tip screw driver (small)
7) Drill with 10mm driver and 12mm driver (for removal of under tray)
8) Pickle fork
9) Hammer
10) Impact (not necessary, but makes things easier)
Here’s a picture of most of the tools we used. We didn’t use the pry bar, but it made it into the picture somehow.

Ok, now we’re getting somewhere. Since we didn’t have the press toll required to press out the bushings, we ran down to AutoZone and grabbed one of these, it worked great!


Now that we have all of the necessary tools, let’s get started. First thing we need to take off is the under tray of the car to gain access to the bolts to take the lower control arm. It’s simply 8 12mm bolts, 4 10mm bolts and 6 plastic clips and it comes right off. Be careful as it might just fall off when you get the last bolt loose.


To get the clips off, simply slide a small flat tip screwdriver in the head and pop it out and it should slide right out.


There are five nuts/bolts that need to come off to get the lower control arm out. Some are 19mm and some are 17mm you see which is which once you get started. Here’s a shot of the control arm from below that shows you roughly where they are.

Bend the cotter pin as such that it slides out from the hole.


Now take the castle nut off.

Now that the nut is loose, just tap the top of the ball joint being careful not to damage the threads, and it should pop right out.

Now we can move to the front of the car and undo the bolt and nut that holds the front/lower control arm bushing in place (this is the one we are replacing)

Pull the pin out of the ball joint that connect to the hub spindle.

Then, simply break the nut loose and thread it off.

Now take your pickle fork and spread the ball joint loose. This shouldn’t take a whole lot of effort.

Now we can move on to the rear bolt/nut. Just get a ratchet on one end and wrench on the other and it should come right out.

Now that we have it loose, let’s go ahead and pull it out. The whole assembly is now ready to come out of the car.

Just wiggle it a little bit and it will come right out.


Phew, now the fun part begins

Take the whole arm assembly over to the press (or use the tool in the kit) and get that factory bushing out! You will want to press it out with the arm upside down, and press the new one in with the control arm right ride up. We used the #1 and #2 press sleeves for this process. Here’s how we had it lined up, with the #1 on the bottom and #2 on the top.

We found out that the bushing would only press out around 3mm then we had to press right on the bushing itself (the soft part) it seemed sketchy at first but it started moving and popped right out.

Next we pressed the new bushing in. when we first attempted to get it to go in, it almost immediately so we adjusted the approach and it seemed to work perfectly.

You can see here how we ended up pressing it in. It might look dangerous, but it worked perfectly.


Now press it all the way so the lip is fully seated against the control arm.

Now we need to lube up the bushing so we can slide the sleeve in.

Also, lube up the two outer bushings as well.

We can slide the sleeve into the bushing now. Just approach it at an angle and work it in and it should slide in with little effort.

Push the outer bushings onto the sleeve.

There you have it, now the arm is ready to install back onto the car.

Here we are placing the assembly back onto the car. It seemed to be easiest to slide the forward most bushing in place first, then slide the rear on in, then work on the ball joint into the spindle.

Line up the hole in the rear of the control arm and slide the bolt in and thread the nut. Don’t tighten it down just yet.

Take your front bolt/nut/plate and replace them in the front position, keep these loose as well (for now)

Then slide the ball joint into the hub assembly might be slightly tricky, but it will slide in.

Place the tie rod end in the rear of the spindle.

Thread on all respective nuts and tighten them to factory specifications.

You can replace the under tray and you’re ready to go! That wasn’t so bad, was it? Now you can enjoy the benefits of having the anti-lift kit installed! Get your car on the track and experience the difference this product makes in handling!

Thanks,

Corby

How-To: Install Whiteline Rear Adjustable Toe Arms on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Adjustable Toe Arms directly from us HERE

 

While we were installing our rear lateral links and air bags on the 2013 Subaru BRZ, we wanted to install the Whiteline Rear Adjustable Toe Arms while we were at it.. These install in just a few minutes and take very minimal tools. So let’s take a look at what Whiteline has to say about them:
Whiteline Rear lower Lateral Toe Adjustment Turnbuckle arm allows for a more precise adjustment of toe on the rear suspension over the stock units. When installing coil overs and lowering the car, sometimes the OEM rear toe adjustment is not enough to put it back to reasonable spec. Where the Whiteline unit comes in, is that it allows for a wider range of adjustment. These units include a harder polyurethane rubber on the in-bore side, which has much less flex compared to the stock units. This gives you better feedback, and less flex allowing for more precise feedback. They also feature a motor sports outer ball joint, which helps to cope with stress that is exerted on these components when exposed to hard use.

This kit also includes the toe lock kit which allows you to lock in the toe settings on the car.
Now, we just have to get the tools together to get this thing replaced. Should be easy enough.
1) Hammer
2) 17mm, 19mm 7/8”wrenches
3) Ratchet or impact
4) 19mm socket
5) Pliers

Let’s get started! First things first, let’s get the car up and secure on some jack stands and get the rear tires/wheels off. Now we have access to the bolts/nuts that hold the factory tow arms in place. Pull the clip out of the stud so we can get the outer nuts off. Take your wrench and break it loose, then it should thread off.

Now take the inner bolt/nut off and pull the inner bushing out of the sleeve. You just have to tap the top of the bolt of the ball joint a few times and it will fall out of place:

Remove the factory arm, take it over to your Whiteline replacements and compare the two. You want to make sure that these are as close to the same length as possible till you take the car down to have an alignment done. Now slide the Whiteline unit in place.

Now we need to lube up the bushings on the inner part of the arm with the provided lube. Once you have it all lubed up, slide it in place

Now we can put our bolts and nuts in place and tighten them to factory specifications. Don’t forget to put the pin in the castle nut to reduce the possibility of the nut working loose!

Tighten up your adjustment lock nuts and that’s it! You’re ready to go. Now that you have your tow adjusters, you can go as low as you want without worrying about abnormal tire wear due to an incorrect tow setting. Now that was simple, and a well worthwhile mod for anyone looking to adjust their car out of factory specs due to adjustments beyond factory ride height or wheel fitment. Enjoy! Thanks for reading!

 

-Corby

How-To: Install Cusco Rear Lateral Links on 2013 Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase these Rear Lateral Links directly from us HERE

 

We were installing the Air Lift Performance Air Suspension Digital Combo Kit on one of our employee’s 2013 Subaru BRZ and he bought a few other goodies to install while we had it apart. So here we have a simple how to installing the Cusco Rear Lateral Links for the Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ. These were a breeze to install and they take just the most basic of tools.
Here’s what Cusco has to say about them:
Cusco’s adjustable pillow ball lateral links helps control unwanted force under acceleration and braking. They are designed to secure traction in drifting and stability during acceleration under high speed cornering. We love them due to the camber adjustments that should have come on this car from the factory!

Sounds great to us! So let’s get the tools together to get this job done!

1) Ratchet ½” drive
2) 19mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets
3) 17mm, 14mm wrenches
4) Hammer (not necessary, but you might need it to tap the bolts out)

This install is very easy. It’s simply 4 bolts/nuts after you pull your rear wheels off. So, get your car up on jack stands securely, or use a lift like we did, and pull your rear tires/wheels off. Now that we have that done, you can see here the four bolts/nuts we have to remove to get the stock rear lateral links off. Take the three 17mm nuts loose, then the 14mm nut and tap the bolts out. Be careful, the lateral link will fall right out when you get these loose.

Now place the stock lateral link next to the Cusco link and make sure they are the same length, try to get them as close to exact as you can. Tighten up the adjustments on the arm and place it where you took the factory one out. Slide the bolts in all four holes and make sure everything is tightened to factory specifications. Don’t forget to use the bolt and nut that came with the link or you’ll find that one nut won’t thread onto the bolt quite enough.

You can see the bolt here that they provide in the kit.

That’s it! Wasn’t that easy? Now, put your tires/wheels back on, sit your car on the ground and go for a drive. You might not feel the difference right away, but when you start driving your car spiritedly, and take it to the track, that’s when you’ll appreciate your purchase. Thanks for reading!

Corby

How-To: Install TOM’S LED Tail Lights on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your TOM’S Tail Lights directly from us HERE

First Step, make sure you have the LED relay and the 2 rear tails and that everything is in good condition. Yes? Then proceed 

I installed the LED flasher first, but you could do this at anytime.

Open the driver side door, pop off the side access panel, it pops off easily from the bottom.


We need to take off the lower dash panel, so we will need to remove the 2 screws holding it to the dash.

Now you can take off the lower dash panel, which should pop right out with light force

I did not remove any of the electrical connectors as changing out the relay/flasher is a quick job.

The relay is located just to the left of the steering column, but is a bit tricky to access due to the location.

I did not take a picture of this, but I had to insert a very small flat head screwdriver to release the relay from the white plastic clip holding it to the dash beam. Once the relay is free from the clip, you have a bit more room to change it out.

The new LED relay is a direct plug and play and will even attach to the dash beam just like stock.


Plug the new relay in, attach it back to the white clip, and reinstall the lower dash panel and access panel.

Moving on to the Tail Lights, we will need to first remove the trunk floor liner, and the center plastic section which is held on by 3 black plastic clips.

Pop all 3 clips out and remove the center plastic section.


Now we can remove the driver side trunk panel. There should be 5 clips total and the trunk popper switch.

 






The passenger side panel should also have 5 clips total to remove





With the trunk liners removed we now have access to the tail light harness and nuts.

I popped the white harness holders off the stud with my flat head, there will be 1 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. You could also use a pick to lift up the clip holding the zip-tie

Unplug the main harness from the tail lights

Now use your 8mm socket to remove the 4 nuts on each taillight

With all 4 nuts removed and the harness unplugged, carefully remove the tail lights.

 

Carefully put the new tail light back in, making sure everything is aligned correctly.

Install all 4 nuts on the new tail light and plug in the harness. Check to make sure the lights are functioning properly.

*PLEASE NOTE* We had to re-pin our factory harness connection due to the difference in JDM Vs. USDM cars, so here is a brief description of how to re-pin the harness in if your car requires it.

On the harness plug itself, there will be a plastic tab on the top, use a small flat head or dental pick to lift it up and away from the plug.

 

Always take a picture of the wires for reference

I was not able to take a non-blurry picture of the pins and the small plastic clips inside the plug that hold the pins in, but using your dental pick you will want to essentially push the metal pin down, slide the pick towards the back of the plug, and this should also lift the plastic clip up, freeing the pin to be slid out from the back.


The end result, here is the proper wire configuration for the driver side taillight.

And the passenger side tail light’s correct wiring

Once you confirm the tail lights are working to your liking, go ahead and secure the pins back into the plugs, and snap down the small plastic tab we removed earlier. Button everything back up and go enjoy your new tail lights!!!

Before:

Thanks,

Rick

How-To: Install Vortech Supercharger on 2013+ Scion FRS/Subaru BRZ

Purchase this Supercharger directly from us HERE

 

First and foremost, always inspect your kit to make sure you will have everything you need and that everything is in good condition. Vortech’s instructions will give you a complete breakdown of every part, however the instructions were fairly vague, so we hope this install writeup will help anyone who wants to install their own Vortech Supercharger kit on their BRZ or FR-S.

We did not do everything by the book step-by-step, so please keep that in mind if our instructions differ slightly from the Vortech install manual. Also these instructions will be specific for the BRZ, as the FR-S will differ slightly.

Vortech wants you to flash the ECU as the very first step, that way if your ECU is not compatible, you can get it taken care of before you jump into the install.

First we wanted to get the car ready to be worked on, so that means removing the under tray, and front bumper, please note we did not remove the passenger side headlight until later in the install, but you could also do that along with the front bumper.
Remove the front clips holding the fender liner to the bumper, remove the corner lights, and unplug the corner lights as well as the DRL’s

Next remove the clips and bolts on the upper portion of the bumper.


Make sure you get all of the underpanel clips and bolts out, including those on the fender liner.

The bumper will be ready for removal. It helps to have someone helping you remove the bumper to avoid any scratches.

Remove the factory air box and snorkel. These should come out easily with a 10mm wrench and flat head screwdriver for the clamps.


Make sure to unplug your MAF sensor.

Also remove the PCV valve from the intake

Remove the Sound chamber/tube bracket

Now we will remove the tube itself down on the passenger side frame rail

Use the supplied rubber cap to cap off the sound tube

Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner on the passenger side of the engine bay
Remove the alternator as we will need to grind down the OEM bracket and install the supplied spacer/bracket

Make sure to remove the clip holding the wiring harness down

File down the top side of the bracket. This is soft aluminum, so even a bastard file will make quick work of it.

Install the supplied alternator spacer/bracket in the orientation shown.

Make sure to tighten the supplied long bolt/nut running through the bracket

Remove the lower bolts on the A/C compressor

We will be using a new bracket which will be in 2 pieces. Pre-assemble as shown and tighten down the bolt that holds the extension tube to the bracket

This is where the bracket will be going.

Install the assembled bracket to the lower portion of the A/C compressor

Remove the splined idler pulley just below the alternator. Set off to the side as we will re-install this

Remove the smooth idler below the A/C compressor. Set off to the side as we will re-install this.

Remove the smooth idler between the A/C compressor and the alternator, we will be replacing this with a supplied idler.

Install the smooth idler with supplied hardware

Reinstall the splined idler and smooth idler. Fit the extension tubes with the longer supplied bolts. Do not tighten the bolts yet as they will have to come back out anyway.

Use the Vortech manual’s directions to loosely route the new serpentine belt .

It will look something like this.

Using a friend, support the Supercharge assembly and thread the extended bolts into the extension tubes, through the idlers and into the block. This is quite tricky as you need everything to be supported and lined up correctly. *note we found it easiest to do the passenger side first, and then the driver side.

Once you get the threads started, tighten down the bolts. *note, we recommend keeping these finger tight as you may have to loosen them a bit to get clearance when routing the belt.

Use the supplied hardware to secure the Supercharger to the A/C compressor bracket we installed previously. Again, we recommend keeping this finger tight for now.

Find the supplied upper alternator bracket, first secure it to the super charger assembly.

Then attach it to the new alternator bracket/riser using the supplied hardware.

The belt is a bit of a tight fit between the supercharger pulley and the A/C compressor. Keeping all the bolts finger tight on the super charger assembly will allow you to get a bit more clearance when routing the belt. * note, have a friend operate the tensioner while you route the belt.

I tried to snap some decent pictures of the belt routing, but it was difficult to do with the Supercharger assembly in the way.


Now we can more onto the smaller supercharger support brackets. We will need to remove the bolts on the passenger side head, located next to the cam/avcs covers.

New supplied bracket/hardware all laid out

When installing, make sure the thicker washer is behind the support bracket.

Now install the Air/box support bracket on the driver side in this orientation.

Since we have the Prova hood dampers, we did not install the supplied hood prop support bracket.

The Alternator cover can go back on without modification

If you want to re-use your factory A/C compressor cover, you will need to modify it. Go slow with this to make sure you do not remove too much material. Remember measure twice cut once saying? Well ours was measure 8-10 times, and cut about 5 times 

Vortech offers the washer reservoir as your stock one will not work with the intercooler piping. You will need to remove the factory reservoir. First I disconnected the harness clips from the reservoir.



Next unplug the main connector to the washer motor.

Now free the filler neck from the car.

Now you can unbolt the reservoir from the car.


We drained our washer fluid into a clean bucket so we could re-use it.

Now we can get the supplied reservoir setup. First insert the rubber grommet into the top opening of the reservoir.

Insert the metal filler tube into the new reservoir.

Cut the OEM filler neck down to size, I used the OEM markings to make it easy.

Install the rubber hose onto the cut filler neck.

Install the OEM pump which will be surrounded by the supplied screw on cap. Note* make sure the rubber gasket is centered, and test the reservoir before install it onto the car.

Now install the supplied brackets on both sides of the reservoir. *Note, I would have the bolt/nut end of the hardware facing towards the front of the car for better fender liner fitment.

Mount the reservoir onto the car. *note I would wait to install the filler neck until you get the charge pipes installed.

At any point in time you can modify the OEM under tray, you will drill or file about 1/8 inch. We used a round file as it the plastic is pretty soft. You will have to do this for proper fitment once everything goes back together.

Now we wanted to modify our 2 small plastic air ducts that are on the sides of the radiator, so first we need to pop off the clips.

Vortech supplies templates, which we cut out to make for a good fit inside the ducts.

We used a hole saw as a start, thinking that the cleaner we could make these, the better.

We ended up having to trim more off to clear the piping, so here is a picture of them modified and back on the car with the intercooler piping.


We are almost ready to install the intercooler and charge pipes, but first we must re-locate the factory horn.

Once removed, you will want to flatten out the tabs for re-location.

The Vortech instructions were un-clear where to re-mount the horn, so we found this to be a suitable location.

Now we can prepare the Intercooler for install. First install the supplied brackets, but do not tighten all the way as you will want to move them around to get the intercooler to sit where you would like it.

Now test fit the intercooler and make sure to mark where you want to drill into the bumper beam.

Now Drill baby drill! The bumper beam is pretty soft so it is not too bad to drill.

Note* From here on out the pictures were a bit hit and miss as we had a few people jump in to help out, but I will do my best to explain.

With the Intercooler mounted and secure, we will want to move onto the piping. With any piping, I always make sure that they are free from any debris.

Next we will want to remove the factory MAF from the intake and install it on the passenger side charge pipe. *note, our kit included the plug and play extension harness, which was ran and hidden well before I was able to snap a picture of it.


Install the charge pipe that goes directly to the throttle body. *note there is a supplied bracket you will install just right of the dip stick. You can see the bracket and the rubber isolater in this picture just right of the dip-stick.

To install the passenger side charge pipe on our BRZ we had to remove the passenger side headlight. This is held on by a few bolts and clips and was really easy to remove. *note, for all of the charge pipes, we found it easiest to slide the coupler completely on the charge pipe, and then once the pipes are in place, slide the couple down onto the other charge pipe and secure with clamps.

Once the charge pipe is in place, we can re-install the headlight.

Now move on to the Driver side. Use the short elbow coming right off the intercooler.

Next will be the compressor discharge hose coming off of the supercharger. This will have the port for the blow off valve on it.


Make sure to oil your Blow Off Valve filter, install the hose and clamps and secure it to the intercooler pipe. *note, with the supplied oil/packet, it was difficult not to over-oil the filter, so do your best to use a minimal amount of oil. Expect some dripping from the filter on initial startup.

We can now install the filler neck on the washer reservoir. Use the supplied spacer and mount it just behind the driver side headlight. Make sure to secure the clamps.


Next we removed the factory MAP sensor and install the included Omni sensor in its place.


Next is the air box. Use the supplied bracket on the passenger side as shown here.


The coupler was a bit tricky due to the spacer limitations, but it should go on with a bit of patience. Make sure to hook back up the PCV lines using the supplied hoses and fittings.


The factory snorkel will hook up to the Vortech Air box just like the stock air box.

Next we installed the brass T-fitting in the brake booster line after the factory check valve. *Note it was very late, we were tired and we regret putting it here as you can clearly see the fitting when the hood is open. It would be much cleaner mounted closer to the engine.

Run the vacuum line to the blow off valve. We used a T fitting and ran a line to our boost gauge as well.

Place the factory side air ducts back into place and measure if you need to cut any more for clearance on the pipes. We had to trim quite a bit of plastic off, but just go slow to get it as clean as possible.


There are a few support brackets which attach to the charge pipe. 2 on the lower air ducts(not pictured) and 1 on the air box bracket on the driver side. You can secure the charge pipes to the brackets using the supplied clamps.

Check the oil in the Super charger to make sure it is full, and add any oil if needed. Also make sure to switch out the shipping plug to the vented plug before you start the car.

Go through and double check all of your bolts, clamps, connections and fitment before you start the car.

I would recommend starting the car before you install the bumper to make sure you do not have any leaks, or anything else that would require work to the car.

Once you confirm everything looks good and is secure, re-install the front bumper and undertray. *note, our coolant reservoir was a tight fit between the bumper and the fender liner, do your best to make sure it fits correctly.

Start up the car, check for any leaks, let the blow off valve filter drain any excess oil, and then go for a drive!

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

Rick

How-To: Install Tein EDFC Active on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase the EDFC Active Kit directly from us HERE

Parts we used to install these on our Street Flex Coilovers:

EDK04-P8021 – Tein EDFC Active Controller Kit
EDK05-12140 – Tein EDFC Motor Kit M12-M14

*Optional*

EDK07-P8022 – Tein EDFC Active GPS Kit
EDK06-K4474 – Tein EDFC Strut Kit

 

Before I get started I want everyone to know that there will be many different ways you can wire this in. I found this method worked really well for me, but you may install it in a different way.

First let’s make sure we have everything we need in the package. Does it all look complete and in good condition? Yep! Let’s get cracking!


I decided to start with the EDFC motors as they are a breeze to install, and will be the same process on all 4 corners.

First we remove the rubber boot on top of the click wheel.


Now use the supplied wrench to remove the click wheel itself to expose the inner screw.


You can either use the click wheel itself or an allen key to remove the inner screw from the damper.

Take the new supplied inner screw and give it a dab of grease and insert it into the top of the damper and spin it down until it is flush with the top of the damper.



Use a small amount of the supplied thread locker around the male damper rod.

Insert the EDFC motor down into the new small screw(without threading the motor onto the shaft) and make 3 full rotations of the motor using a flat head screwdriver, this will allow for the proper clearance of the EDFC motor and the small screw to prevent binding when the motor is maxed out in either direction.

Once you confirm a full 3 rotations, you can thread the motor down onto the damper. Remember the front and rear motors will be a different size, so make sure you check before proceeding.
You will want to spin the motor down onto the damper until it stops, then make sure it is nice and snug.

Test the motor by spinning it using a flat head screwdriver. You want to make sure there is no binding and that the motor spins freely. If you do experience resistance, remove the motor, check for any damage, and repeat the steps above.
The process will be identical for all 4 corners, but it should go much quicker now that you have some experience under your belt.

With the wiring and placement of the Controller, Drivers, and wiring looms, you may install it different than I have, but I found this to be fairly simple and clean. *Note, make sure you write down the Serial Number on the Drivers in the note section in the instruction manual, as you will need to reference this when programming the control unit.
With the Tein EDFC Active kit, you will receive the 2 Wireless Drivers, and the Control Unit which all need a power (12V accessory) and a Ground. After searching in the trunk and the engine bay, I deiced to hook all 3 up to the 12V Accessory Plug in the center console.

Tein provides plenty of wire to run it up to the engine bay and to the back of the car, so I decided to mount the rear driver in the Styrofoam just behind the rear passenger seat. I did have to trim some of the foam out, but the end result looked fantastic and 100% hidden with the interior in the car.


I was able to run the power wire under the rear seat, to the power source at the center console. I grounded it using the control unit located in the driver side of the trunk.


For the front Driver, I located it on the driver side firewall just behind the fender and ran a single extension harness up along the plastic cowl and to the passenger side damper. I was able to run the power wire through the firewall grommet, under the foot well carpet and to the power source in the center console. I used the factory grounding point on the driver side front frame rail.



Now for the control unit itself, I decided to mount it just above the HVAC knobs on the passenger side. I did have to drill a small hole to run the wires into the dash.
I did not want to make the hole too large, so I de-pinned the harness plug, ran the wires through the dash, and re-pinned it.
*Note Make sure you take good pictures of the wire orientation before you remove the pins, so you can reference this when plugging the pins back in.




Use the supplied double sided sticky tape to secure the controller to the dash. Make sure you use alcohol swabs to clean off any dirt or grease.


Now let’s mount the optional GPS sensor. We needed to make sure there was not anything significant blocking the signal to the satellites, but I also did not want to have a sensor stuck to our dash, or the rear deck lid. I decided to see if there was any room under the speaker grill on the dash, and sure enough, there is just enough room to squeeze it in there.



This is also a great location for the GPS sensor as you can easily hide the wire by running it out of the side of the speaker grill, and down the side of the dash, eventually tucking the wire in between the dash and the door frame. Then run it up under the dash and to the control units wiring harness.

Speaker with GPS installed, looks OEM!

Now plug in the drivers, control unit and GPS and turn the key to “Accessory” to make sure the unit powers up and you can hear all 4 motors self-calibrating. Once you confirm everything is working, you can either use the pre-programmed settings, or you can dial in your own. We had to set ours up so that each driver was responding appropriately to the inputs on the control unit. It is very simple, but I would recommend following the instruction manual for a step by step walkthrough. 

End result is very clean, and you can only see the wires if you really look hard.


We did have to trim the rear carpet for the EDFC motors to fit.


I hope this was a helpful guide to get you started on installing your own EDFC Active Kit. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!

Thanks,
Rick

How-To: Install ATI 60mm Vent Pod w/Defi Gauge on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Vent Pod directly from us HERE

First always check to make sure you have everything you need. With the ATi Vent, there is one piece, so just make sure it is in good condition.

And since we also have the Defi gauge, we want to make sure everything is there and in good condition.

Popping the factory vent out is easy, but does take a bit of force. I found that once you get one corner to pop free, the rest of the vent will come right out.


With the vent out, you will see the outer ring attached to the main body of the vent. Gently pry the tabs away from the main body of the vent and it should come right off.


With the outer ring off, we now have access to the inner ring. The process is the same as the outer ring in which you simply pry the tabs away from the main body, and it will pop right off.

Here you can see the stock outer ring and the ATi ring side by side.

I test fit the ATi ring and gauge in the pod just to make sure everything sat correctly and looked good. Everything was perfect, so I removed the ATi ring so I could prepare the Defi 60mm gauge to sit in the pod.

Use the supplied foam band around the backside of the gauge. You will want to make sure the foam sits snugly against the ATi ring.

Now you can put on the ATi vent ring into the stock vent pod with the gauge attached.
*Note, make sure you can spin the gauge in the pod, but you do want it to have resistance.


Now for the fun part, Wiring the Gauge in!

I wanted to do a hidden install, so I removed the lower and side dash panels to access the wires I would be tapping into.
The side dash panel comes off easily by pulling out and up from the bottom.

You will see one screw behind the panel which you will want to remove.

Also remove the single screw in the lower right hand side of the lower dash panel.

Once the screws are out, the lower panel should pop out with a bit of force. Remember to disconnect the harnesses going to the headlight level switch and cluster dim switch.

I was able to find the wires I wanted using a multimeter. Remember we need a 12V constant, 12V with ignition on, 12V when dash lights are on, and a ground.

For the illumination I used the solid purple wire going to the dimmer switch, this will connect to the white wire from the Defi gauge.

Unwrap the factory harness loom to access the wire you need.

We used vampire taps, but you could also splice and solder the wires in.

Next I wanted to find the 12V constant. In the fuse box harness, locate the solid light green wire and tap into that. You will use the Red wire from the Defi gauge.

And for 12V with ignition on, I used the Red/Blue wire from the fuse box harness, which will be attached to the Orange wire from the Defi gauge.

And for the Ground I used the factory bolt going into the dash beam just above the fuse box.


When I tried to install the pod and gauge, I did not like the way it pinched the gauge harnesses between the vent and the internal ducts, so I decided to drill two small holes and run the harnesses through that. You do not have to do this, but I think it makes for a clean install.


I wanted the hole to be small enough to not allow air to escape, which means that it is smaller than the harness clip, so I had to de-pin the harness. *Note, make sure you take a picture of the orientation of the wires for reference.
With the pins out, you should have enough room to slide the harness through the hole, it should be a tight squeeze.

Push the harness up through the hole.

Now re-pin the connector.

For the Boost sensor I first routed the harness through the firewall grommet on the driver side and up into the dash.

Repeat the same process for the boost sensor harness as you used for the main gauge harness. Although I did use a smaller bit as the sensor’s harness was a bit smaller.



Plug in the connectors in the back of the gauge to verify everything is correct and working properly before you finalize the install.

Now push the vent pod back into the dash, use a bit of force to make sure it seats down all the way. It will only go in one way, I noticed the larger portion of the vent went towards the passenger side of the car.


Now clean up the wiring harness. I like to re-use the factory covers to get as close to an OEM look as possible.

Use electrical tape and zip ties to cover and secure the harness.

Plug in the harness to the dimmer/headlight panel, install the lower and side dash panels, hook up the boost sensor to a boost/vacuum source and secure the sensor. Double check that everything looks good and Enjoy your new gauge pod and boost gauge!

How-To: Install Prova Steering Wheel on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase your Prova Steering Wheel directly from us HERE

 

 

So it seems I may be on a Prova kick recently. But this is one of those items that I literally could not wait to install, so you may have an idea of how excited I was when I saw this box on my desk.


First things first, we have to make sure the item is in good condition and has everything included.

Everything looked great, well better than great, it looks amazing!

When messing with Airbags, I always prefer to disconnect the Battery, but others just remove the horn relays to prevent honking your horn through the install.

Use a 10mm combination wrench to disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Or you can remove the (2) 7.5AMP horn fuses located in the engine bay’s fuse box.

Now we can move onto removing the OEM wheel. On the backside of the wheel you will see 3 small holes in the plastic surround. Shine a light in there and you should see a small metal rod in each hole. You are going to push each rod in towards the center of the wheel, in parallel with the wheel. That side of the airbag should pop out a bit without any problem. Repeat this process on the other 2 metal rods.

You can see how each one is oriented here and the direction you need to push the rods. 

With the airbag out, you will remove the 2 harness clips on the backside of the airbag.

Use a small flat head screwdriver to lift the yellow tab so you can remove the plug. 

The plug should come right out with a gentle tug. Don’t forget the ground wire for the horn.

Air bag is out!

Now we can remove the lower plastic trim on the wheel, there will be 2 screws holding these to the frame of the wheel.

With the screws removed, give it a tub to release it from the wheel.

Now remove the harness going to the Cruise Control stalk, it’s a bit tricky to get to, so I used a small flat head to help with the removal.

The center nut is 17mm and is on tight! Have a buddy hold the wheel, or use the internal wheel lock to keep the wheel from spinning when removing this. Note: DO NOT remove the nut all the way! That way when you have to summon your super human strength to remove the wheel from the steering shaft, you won’t smash it into your face. I like to center the wheel before sliding it off the splines, which should make for a hassle free install with the steering wheel alignment. 

Carefully slide the harnesses through the small opening at the top of the wheel as you are removing the wheel from the steering shaft. Pay close attention that the clock spring remains in the upward position(or whatever position it was in when the steering wheel was removed)

We can now start the disassembly of the steering wheel accessories. I started with the rubber damper/spring located at the top of the wheel. It comes off easily with 2 screws.

Next I removed the Cruise Control Stalk, which is also held in by 2 screws. I also popped off the back plastic cover.

Make sure to transfer over the metal rods/clips that hold in the air bag. I found it best to do one at a time with both steering wheels next to each other. This way you can make sure they go in the same way they came off the old wheel.

Now compare the stock wheel to the new wheel and be proud you are half way done!

I snapped on the rear black plastic cover first, and then proceeded to bolt on the rubber damper/horn spring, but you could do this in any order.

Now slide the Cruise Control Stalk into place and secure it with the 2 screws.

The new Steering Wheel is ready to go back in the car!

Carefully slide the harnesses through the back of the wheel and orientate the wheel in the exact position it came off. 

Tighten center nut, and check alignment of the steering wheel.

Plug the cruise control harness back into the stalk.

Pop the lower plastic trim back onto the wheel and secure it with the 2 screws.

Plug in the airbag harness. Remember, Orange on Orange, Black on Black. Push the yellow clips down to secure them to the airbag. 

Hook up the ground wire to the horn.

Push air bag assembly back into the steering wheel. It should pop right into place on all 3 corners. If you notice one does not seem to secure itself down, remove the airbag again and check to make sure the Metal rods/clips are fully seated and try again. It should go in without issue.

Enjoy your new Steering Wheel!

 

Thanks,

 

Rick