How-To: Install Prova Steering Wheel on 2008+ Impreza WRX

Purchase this steering wheel directly from us HERE


This is a detail how to install of the Prova D Series Steering wheel for the 2008+ WRX/STi Models. The install will be identical to also the O series.

Innovation is steering wheel design has never felt so good. Prova is proud to announce the new series of OEM replacement steering wheels that allow you to retain all the factory comforts and safety benefits, while getting a sporty and comfortable steering wheel.

Features a Micro Suede and Alcantara wrap to give you a feel that you never want to let go. Not only comfortable, soft, and good looking, these materials are durable as well.

Allows you to retain the Factory air bag, stereo controls, and Cruise Control.
Direct factory replacement means you do not need any hub adapters to make this fit.

358mm (14.1″) diameter, compared to the OEM 375mm (14.75″). Giving you a sporty feel that is much more enjoyable to hold.

WARNING: If you are not familiar with SRS AirBag system, please have a professional install this. Neglect to do so can cause serious injury and or death.

Time for install: 20min-1hr depending on skill level

Tools Needed:
Small Flat head screwdriver/pick
Phillips screwdriver
T30 Torques bit
17mm 1/2″ drive 6 Point Socket
10mm socket/wrench

1) Disconnect one of the batteries Terminals from the Battery. Using a 10mm Socket/Wrench

2) Get in the car and press on the brakes to use up the remaining voltage that might be stores in some electronic devises.

3) Grab the T30 Torques bit and use it to loosen the airbag from the steering wheel skeleton. The bolts will be on the left and right side of the steering wheel. One on each side

4) Once the hardware is loosened, proceed to slowly pull the airbag out of the steering wheel.

As you can see the airbag is still connected electronically, so be careful.

5) Look on the back side of the airbag and you will see 2 clips. Get the pick or the small screw driver and pop up the center section. Do this to both clips.

6) Once the clip is popped up pull on the connector and disconnect it from the airbag. Do this to both connectors.

7) Then find the gray wire and push in the small metal tab, and pull up on the tab itself to disconnect it from the back side of the airbag.

After This the airbag unit can be taken out of the steering wheel.

8) Once the airbag is out, proceed to take out the white clip. This has a small tab on top that needs to be pressed down and then the connector will come out.

9) Move the steering wheel at this point to lock it in place. This will allow you to loosen the nut with out having the wheel move. Take the 17mm (MAKE SURE ITS A 6 POINT) socket, and remove the nut the hold the steering wheel to the steering linkage.

10) Once the nut has been removed, proceed to wiggle the steering wheel towards and away from you until it comes off the shaft. This will take a little effort, but does not require a puller. Once the wheel is off proceed to move the connectors out of the way and take the steering wheel off.

11) Once the wheel is off, proceed to take the Phillips screw driver and remove the 2 bolts that hold the back side plastic cover off the wheel.

12) On the bottom of the wheel, a C shaped brackets hold the bottom of the back cover to the steering wheel. Apply slight pressure to each one and spread them to pop the back cover off.

13) Proceed to lift up the rear cover to get access to the 2 bolts that hold the controls pieces on for the Radio and for the Cruise Control.

14) Get the Phillips screw driver and remover these bolts.

15) Once the bolts are removed, proceed to take remove the controls off the steering wheel.

OEM Next to the Prova D Shape

The way the image was taken it makes them look the same size. However the Prova is Smaller.

16) Put the side controls into the new Prova Wheel, and reinstall using the same hardware as you took off.

17) Realign the back cover plastic piece and re-secure the lower C clip around the wheel.

18) Get the 2 bolts that hold the backing cover and re-secure them to the wheel.

19) Once all the small bolts have been secured, put the steering wheel on the shaft. Make sure to align the 2 plastic pins with the holes in the steering wheel. These are your automatic blinker return along with steering wheel angle sensor, and also a way to make sure you put the wheel back into the same position as you took it off. Once aligned use some force to gentle push the steering wheel onto the shaft.And get it to sit down as much as you can.

20) Reconnect the white clip, by just pushing it in. If its taking allot of effort, you might have the clip upside down. You will hear a small clicking noise when it goes in.

21) Proceed to hand tighten the nut, to prevent any cross threading.

Followed up by torquing it down to 45newtons/meter (or about 38ft/lbs)

22) Reconnect the airbag connectors and push in the center clips.

23) Reinstall the Gray wire by pushing it onto the connector.

24) Get the airbag and place it in the steering wheel, proceed to get the T27 Torques fitting and HAND tighten both sides of the airbag into place on the steering wheel.

25) Once hand tighten. Grab the airbag with your hands and genteelly tug on it to make sure that both bolts are secured into the wheel. If secured proceed to tighten both Torques bolts down.

26) Double Check to make sure that everything is secured. Grab the wheel and make sure there is no abnormal play in it. This should be just as rigid as the stock unit.

27) Reconnect the battery.

28) Start the car and make sure that the SRS airbag light turns off as normal. If it stays on, you made a mistake and MUST address it prior to driving the car.

29) Enjoy the new Prova Steering wheel!

Please post up if you have any questions or concerns regarding this install.

Kirill is in no way shape or form responsible for any damages or injuries that might occur during or do to the install of this product or do to the how to. This is a how to write up, that should be used in conjunction with the OEM manual, and should only be performed by a professional.

How-To: Install Prova Air Oil Separator on 2008+ Subaru Impreza WRX STi

Purchase this Air Oil Separator directly from us HERE


Prova Air oil Separator is the fastest, most simple, and the cleanest installed unit on the market. It captures the vaporized oil coming out of the heads , allows the fumes to run through the filler neck where the oil can condense back to liquid form and drop back into the motor. This will keep the oil in your motor, instead of having it get burned. This will allow you to keep your motor cleaner, and running better, along with help prolong the life of your motor. There is a reason why many high end sports cars include air oil separators, as it helps keep the motors clean and running at optimal level.

These units can be used on Turbo and NA Subaru motors.

The total install time is about 5-10 min, and requires these things.
1) Prova Air Oil Separator
2) Razor Blade
3) Pliers or something to cut zip ties

These are all the Contents of the Prova Air/Oil Separator kit. As you can see it comes with Hose, Separator, Zip Ties, Instructions, and Plastic T’s.


We did the install on a 2008 STi. However all turbo Imprezas should be 99% the same.


Start with taking off the oil cap from the filler neck.

IMG_7971_rs .jpg

Get the Air oil separator. You can see that its a 2 piece design, having the center piece screw into the filler neck securing the outer piece of separator in place.


Tighten down the center piece hand tight, and then reinstall the oil cap.


Now move over to the PCV hose that comes from the cross over pipe on the intercooler. Pull off the hose from the metal pipe.


Now follow that hose, and you will see where it attaches to the turbo inlet hose. Pull it off from there, however be careful not to break the nipple off the inlet.


The Kit comes with 2 different size hoses. The larger ID hose is for the Turbo inlet side, for the fumes coming out of the separator. The smaller ID is from the metal pipe on top of the intercooler.


Now get the supplied smaller inside diameter hose that comes with the Prova Separator and attach it to the metal pipe that runs across the intercooler.


Once attached to the hard pipe, run it over the the separator.

IMG_7978_rs.jpgThe hose supplied is about 2X as long as you need, so get the razor and cut it to the appropriate length.


Once cut to proper length attach it to one of the nipples on the separator. The way this unit is designed, it does not matter what one is in and what one is out. Making this a very easy to use unit.


Now Get the larger hose and install it onto the turbo inlet side.


Now run it over to the separator, cut to proper length, and attach it to the separator.


After all the hoses are attached, make sure that the hoses have no kinks. If everything looks proper get the supplied zip ties and secure the hoses to keep them from moving around and to make it a clean looking install.


After you are all done. This is what you will have left over. The left over fittings are to be used if you had a NA Subaru. You will notice in the image the pre-bent hose, that is the OEM piece that you pulled off that ran from the Metal cross over pipe on top of the intercooler into the turbo inlet.


Now give it a couple days and you will start noticing that the car will start running better as it will be burning off the remaining oil that is in the intercooler, turbo inlet, and inside the intake manifold.

If you guys/gals have any questions do not hesitate to ask.


How-To: Install Radiator Shroud on 2008+ Subaru Impreza WRX STi

Click HERE or on the photos below to checkout our radiator shrouds:



With the amount of track time that our 2008 STi sees, keeping the car cool is the most important thing as it will allow us to run it harder for a longer period of time.With this vehicle being so new, it is becoming a waiting game for manufactures to come out with parts in a timely manner, especially ones that have a good amount of engineering behind it, parts that actually work, and function how they are suppose to.

Beatrush/Laile is a top notch Japanese company that has been working on Subarus for many years. And seeing many of their products on the GC and GD models, our expectations were high for quality, finish, and fitment.

Tools Needed:
Phillips screw driver
Flat-head screw driver
12MM socket or wrench.

1) Take the Phillips screw driver and take out the center of the clips that hold the ram air intake to the upper radiator support.

So now it looks like this. After you take both the clips off and pull out the ram air out of the air box.

The ram air just slides out of the air box.

2) Now pop off the 2 clips that hold the upper grill onto the radiator support, using the flat head screw driver. (You only need to take out the 2 on the driver side of the car)

Get the 12MM socket and take off the 2 brackets that hold the secure the radiator to the top of the radiator support.

And it will look like this after all the parts are removed out of the way.

4) Put on the new Beatrush Radiator shroud.
5) Now go backwards and put everything back on. Starting with the radiator brackets, then the 2 clips that hold the upper grill on, followed by putting the ram air back into the air box, and putting the clips back in.
After it is all said and done, stand back and enjoy .

Impression: Not much of a power mod but the engine bay now looks great with a little eye candy. The main purpose of the radiator shroud is to help direct air through the radiator, instead of over it. The coolant temp. needle now sits a little lower when cruising on the freeway which means the shroud is definitely helping keep the car run cooler.


How-To: Install Short Throw Shifter on a 2008+ Subaru Impreza WRX STi

You can purchase this shifter directly from us HERE


Shortly after getting our 2008 STi it was apparent that the stock shifter had to go.
Replacing the stock shifter is a Kartboy unit which will shorten the throw.
After taking the stock shifter out, it was apparent that Subaru did a slight change of design and used a different sized barrel. After getting in contact with TIC we had some new STi 6-speed pivot bushings.

The interior is a little bit more complicated to take apart over the previous GD, however its nothing that can’t be done.

Parts You will need:

KartBoy 6 Speed Shifter
TIC 6spd Pivot Bushing
Lithium Grease

Tool you will need.
10mm Socket
12mm Open-end wrench
12mm socket
Flat head screw driver
3/32 Punch
Rubber hose (to hold the reverse lockout toggle under the car in the up position)
Snap ring pliers
Pliers to cut zip ties
Jack and jack stands

1) Remove the 2 bolts that bolt the arm rest to the chassis.

2) Pop up the E-brake boot to gain access to a bolt under it. Be careful as not to damage the leather and the plastic.

3) On the under side of the center dash piece, between the seat and the carpet, there are some hidden clips that you will need to pull over the tabs that are on the plastic. There are 2 of these clips. One in the front and one in the back part of the leather boot.

4) Remove the bolt that is under the leather E-brake boot and pull the armrest portion BACK. DO NOT LIFT AS YOU WILL BREAK THIS LITTLE WHITE CLIP.

5)Then grab the tray and the shift boot portion and pull it straight back as well. However BE VERY CAREFUL, as there are small fingers that hold the whole assembly to the lower part of the dash.

6) After you get it off this is what you will see. Just take out the 2 plastic white nuts that hold the rubber boot over the bottom of shifter.

7) Take off the zip tie that is on top of the shifter holding the reverse lockout cable.
Then take out the bolt that holds the shifter barrel to the U shifter rod.
Then proceed to remove the snap ring.

8) Get under the car and have a friend pull on the reverse lockout.
Jack up the car and put it on jack stands.
Climb under and follow the reverse lockout cable from the shifter all the way to the transmission. As a friend is pulling on the lockout you will notice that there is a little arm moving on the tranny. Put a rubber hose between the arm and the tranny to keep it in the pull up position.

9) After you get the lever arm on the tranny in the up position, proceed to knock the reverse lockout pin out of the shifter.
Careful as the reverse lever on the shifter is spring loaded. Its weak spring tension, however make sure you don’t lose any of the parts.

10) After the pin is out and the snap ring is pulled out, proceed to pull the shifter out of the cup. There will be 2 rubber O-rings. Make sure you don’t lose or damage them.
This is what the bottom of the shifter looks like after you get it out.

11) Take out these 2 little screws and the piece that they hold will slide off.

12) OEM next to a Kartboy
You’re 1/2 way there!

13) Transfer all the parts onto the KartBoy Shifter.
NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE TIC 6spd Pivot Bushing as the OEM ones will not fit into the KartBoy barrel (Thanks Subaru for the design change).
Place a little grease back into the cup that holds the bottom of the shifter.

Now, proceed to do everything backwards.
You will also need to use a second zip tie to tie up the reverse lockout cable away from the drive shaft.

Now clean up and enjoy your new KartBoy Short Shifter!


How-To: Install Big Brake Kit on 2008+ Subaru Impreza WRX STi

Purchase this Big Brake Kit directly from us HERE


This is a HOW TO install for set of StopTech Front Big Brake Kit on a 2008 STi.
StopTech 355MM ST-40(4 piston caliper) Kit

Reason for the Install: After doing a track day, it was apparent that the OEM brake system requires allot of work to get them to perform as needed. The OEM Brembo brakes are good, but they are not sufficient for hard track use. Of course 2 piece rotors, SS Lines, fluid, Ti shims, brake ducts, etc. would help a lot, but after it’s all said and done, you’re almost up to a price of a BBK.

Advantages: The StopTech big brake kit is amazing. It comes with everything needed. New hardware, new brake lines, and even a little bottle of lock tight! The only thing you need to buy is some brake fluid. The calipers, brackets, and rotors are all top notch! And are as good, if not better quality, then the OEM brakes.

INFO: Another reason for the brake kit was to lose some un-sprung weight and rotational mass.
OEM 328mm Rotor weight: 22.16 LBS
StopTech 355mm Rotor weight: 18.1 LBS
So with a bigger rotor that has better cooling capacity and larger surface area, you are losing 4lbs of rotational mass and un-sprung weight per front corner.

Also, with a 2-piece rotor, you keep heat out of the hubs. which in turn helps keep them cool, and working longer.

Overlay of Stock on the StopTech

Side shot. The StopTech rotor is wider and has larger cooling passages.

OEM Calipers: 10.75 LBS
StopTech calipers and bracket: 9.74 LBS
With a larger caliper that has more clamping load, you’re still 1lb lighter than OEM.

Things Needed:
Rims to clear the brake Kit. We tested 2 different rims, Prodrive GC-05 18×9.5 +44 and Enkei NTO3+M 18×9.5 +40. With the caliper now being place higher up on the rim, you actually gain clearance. With the NTO3+M, we no longer have to use a 10MM spacer (previously used with the stock brakes).
Motive Power Bleeder. This makes bleeding the brakes quick and easy. It only took about 10 min to bleed the new brakes. Of course, you can also get a buddy to help you and do it the old fashion way.
Brake Fluid. We opted to use the ATE Super Blue as we have had great results and the fluid stays consistent during hard driving.
Catch bottle and a clear tube, so you can catch the fluid coming out of the caliper, and a clear tube so you can see when the air is out of the system.
Sand Paper. This is to get rid of rust build up that is between the rotor and the hub. ANY rust will not allow the new rotor to seat properly.
Soap, water, rags, and brake cleaner. The rotors have oils on them that need to be cleaned off before they are installed.
Tools: All Sockets HAVE TO BE 6 POINT! As with such high TQ on some of the hardware, a 12 point will easily strip some of the bolts!
19MM 1/2 Drive Socket
15MM 3/8 Drive Socket
12MM 3/8 Drive Socket
1/2″ socket
7/16″ open end wrench
17MM open end wrench
Flat head Screw Driver
10MM box end wrench
Torque Wrench 1/2″ drive. This is so that you can tighten the new hardware to the StopTech specs.
Misc. extensions.
1/2 breaker bar.
5 MM allen wrench (hex)
Jack, and Jack stands.


1) Break loose the lug nuts. Jack up the car. Set it on Jack Stands. Pull off the rim.

2) Get the 19MM Socket with a breaker bar and take the caliper off the hub. The 2 bolts are placed at the bottom of the OEM caliper by the Axle.
Once you get the caliper off, depending on how much of a groove your rotors have, you should be able to slide the caliper right of the rotor.
We used a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter. I know we said not to, but we did, and well, broke the adapter.


These are the bolts you are removing.

Set the caliper on a box, or hang it with a wire or zip tie off the strut to keep the brake line from stretching.

3) Take off the 12MM bolt that hold the brake line on to the bottom strut mount.

You can also see in this image the top bolt where the bolt holds the caliper on to the hub.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TAKE THE BRAKE LINES OFF YET! As you will drain the master cylinder for the brakes, and create a huge issue. The brake lines is the LAST THING to remove!

4) Take off the stock rotor so the hub is exposed.
Then get your sand paper and take off the rust that was between the hat and the hub. Even a little rust will cause the rotor to not sit flush (the car has 5K miles and as you can see, rust already started to form).

What it looked like after. You don’t need to make it look new and shiny, just take off the coating of rust.

5) Remove the dust shield that sits behind the Rotor. Due to the size difference between the stock rotor and StopTech Rotor, this shield will need to be modified. They are 12MM bolts, 3 of them.

Next to the new rotor you will see why you need to take it off and bend it.

6) Take the shield and grab a hammer.
If you look, you can see that the shield has a lip on it. With the new rotor being 1″ bigger, this lip needs to be ether a) flattened out, or b) cut off. We made it flat

This is what it will look like.

7) Put the shield back on the hub and tighten the hardware to about 10-14ft lbs.
Important: Take the new rotor and put it on the hub, then move the new rotor back and forth and look for contact between the shield and the rotor. Wherever you see contact, you will need to bend the shield away from the rotor. Any contact will cause issues and unwanted noise.

8) Next is attaching the new StopTech bracket to the hub.
You’ll want to grab the included hardware and Loctite.
Hardware (use only 2 per side) Washer goes on top of the bolt.


Apply some Loctite on the bolt.

And put the bracket on to the hub so that the 2 bolts that the caliper attaches to are on the inside of the hub (toward the inside of the car). They are 19MM.

Now Start to thread in the hardware.

Tighten both the top and the lower bolt as tight as you can with out putting too much weight into it. You’ll want about the same amount of pressure on both the bolts.
Get the torque wrench and tighten the hardware to 75-80Ft/lbs.

It should now look like this.


10) Take the proper caliper and the 5mm allen and take out the 2 bolts that hold the bridge to the caliper.

Remember that the air feed is facing down on the bridge.

10) Now put the rotor on the hub and the caliper on the bracket.

Now tighten the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket (washers sit on top of the caliper between the bolt and caliper).

Get the 1/2″ 6-point socket.

Now torque down the bolts to 40ft/lbs.

11) Now insert the new pads with the friction material towards the rotor. The pad must be perfectly straight going in. If it is a little to one side or the other, it will require a lot of force to put in. They should go in by hand with no hammers or high force needed.

What it looks like after.

Now insert the bridge and the hardware.

Insert the hardware. With the washer being between the caliper and the head of the bolt.

Tighten the allen bolts to about 8-10ft/lbs (hand tight)

12) Brake Lines. (WE ALREADY HAD BRAKE LINES ON OUR STI, so we did not exchange them for the ones supplied with the kit)

When installing new brake lines, this is how the brass washers should sit on the banjo end.

How it sits on the caliper. Tighten it to 14ft/lbs. 9/16″ 6 point socket.

Attach the line to the bottom of the strut. 12MM socket.

Brake line to hard line.
Top is a 17MM and the bottom is a 10MM. On the top use a 17MM open end wrench. On the bottom, YOU MUST USE A 10MM BOX END WRENCH. IF NOT YOU WILL STRIP IT!
Pop out the retainer clip the holds the line to the chassis with a flat head screw driver.

Important: Once you take this fitting off, brake fluid will start leaking out fast. Make sure you work quickly, as too much time will cause your master cylinder to drain out. (THIS BRAKE KIT WAS DESIGNED TO WORK ON THE 1993-2007 Impreza, in 2008, Subaru changed the fitting on the solid brake line, so either a) you must use a Technafit Brake Line b) Wait for a couple more weeks for StopTech to come out with lines c) use your stock line until StopTech has one out specifically for the 2008) We are using the Technafit lines and we have NO ISSUES!

Now attach the new line to the hard line on the car and clean up the brake fluid ASAP with soap and water as the fluid WILL EAT THE PAINT OFF THE CAR AND OFF THE CALIPER!


13) NOW DO THE SAME THING TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CAR Change the OEM Brakes to the new brakes.

14) Bleeding the brakes.
We use the Motive Power Bleeder to make it a quick and clean.
Hook up the power bleeder to the master cylinder.

Fill the canister 1/3 full with brake fluid and pressurize the can to NO MORE THAN 14PSI!

Attach the clear hose to the inside valve on the caliper and get your 7/16″ wrench on the valve.

Open the Valve about 1/2 turn and watch the fluid. The fluid will take a second to start coming out. But you will notice that at 1st it will have a lot of air bubbles. Keep the valve open until the fluid coming out has no air bubbles.

After you do the inside, do the outside of the caliper.

15) After you bleed the new calipers, bleed the entire system, from rear to front. Make sure all the fluid is air free. Keep an eye on the Power Bleeder and make sure that it is above 6PSI of pressure and has plenty of fluid.

16) After you’ve flushed all the brake fluid in the system, hop into the car and hit the brakes (after you take the pressure bleeder off the car) and the cap is on the master cylinder, and the valves are all closed. The first couple times you press the brakes, they will go to the ground, but after you pump it 2-3 times, pressure will be fully up and your pedal should feel very stiff. If it is not, you might still have air in the system.

17) Put your rims on and torque them down to the OEM spec. We torqued them down to 85ft/lbs. Enjoy the new look!

18) Breaking in your new brakes. First time you apply the brakes you should be going VERY SLOW. In case anything happens your able to safely stop. If the brakes are working properly proceed to slowly increasing your speed. And just drive around carefully listening for abnormal noises. They brakes at first will not be as good as stock until the pads have had adequate hard stops and cooling cycles.

19 After the test drive go back and reinspect everything. Making sure nothing has come loose. Also check your brake fluid level and look for a drop in fluid level. If its lower than when you left, you might have a leak!
You will notice that there will be a ring on your inner rim where fluid from the rotor has got out, this is OK. It’s just manufacturing oil from the rotors. Just make sure its oil and not brake fluid!

This should cover a Big Brake install on a 2008 STi




How-To: Install Coilovers on a 2008+ Subaru Impreza WRX STi

To check out our selection of Coilovers click HERE



This is a how to install for 2008 Impreza Coilover install.

The factory suspension is very well designed, but as other previous models has room to improve on. And this is where the Cusco Zero2-E coilovers come in. They offer a great Daily Ride, and can be a powerful tool at Auto-X and Track Days.

Things needed:

19MM Socket (6 point)
19MM Open end Wrench
12MM Open End Wrench
14MM Deep Socket
14Mm Open End Wrench
17MM 6 point Socket
17MM Open end wrench
Allen key to hold the sway bar end link from spinning.
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench.
And misc. extensions

1) Jack up the car, Put it on Jack Stands, and take off the tires.

2) Front Suspension is first. Take off the Brake line and the ABS wires off the Strut.

3) Take off the 2 lower bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle.

4)Take off the 3 top bolts that hold the top hats to the chassis. Be careful, as the strut will be out after this, so make sure not to damage your outer axle boot.

New Vs. Old
As you can tell the new coilovers are VERY low. We had to raise them about 1″ to clear our race rims w/ tires. However, with stock rims you might be able to get away with running the drop. But they are LOW!

5) Now go backwards. Put the top hat in so that the camber plate is sitting side to side. And tighten the top hat bolts.

6) Attach the Brake Line and the ABS wires to the strut.

7) Now insert the 2 lower bolts to attach the strut to the knuckle and place the camber bolt so that your tires do not rub on the strut. (Be careful, as this can ruin a brand new set of tires and coilovers very fast if not set up properly)

8) Rear is straight forward. Make sure that the rear sway bar is not attached to the suspension, as it will not allow the arm to drop far enough to get the stock strut and spring out.

9) Take out the middle bolt thats in the picture as that holds the strut to the lower arm. This thing is TIGHT! So a breaker bar and a 6 point socket are a MUST to avoid stripping the nut!

10) Take out the trunk mat and the 2 plastic side pieces to expose the top of the rear suspension. The 2 plastic covers on the inside have tabs on the back of them that will need to be slid up to allow the Covers to come out.

11) Take off the 2 top hat bolts and the rear suspension will be ready to come out. At this point you will need to press the lower suspension arm down to give you enough clearance for the strut to come out.


12) Now work backwards. Put the Top hat in place and tighten the 2 nuts. Then jack up the lower arm so that the new strut will go into the lower arm and insert the bolt. Torque spec for the lower arm is 100ftlbs according to a local tech. And now tighten the end links as well that you removed.

You are almost Done!
After you do all 4 corners make sure all the spring perches are tight, and that all the hardware (bolts) are tightened to factory spec.

Lower the car and triple check everything. Then slowly start doing figure 8’s and listen for rubbing or clunking. If everything is ok, go and get a alignment ASAP!