Recently we had the opportunity to install some Tomei Goodies on our La Flama Blanca EVO X Project Car, instead of talkin about how amazing Tomei is (DUH!) I’ll let the photos and video speak for themselves. For more information and detailed specifications click on the images and titles below!! Check back for Dyno numbers and a detailed how-to on these amazing parts, until then ENJOY!! 😀
This Tomei Titanium Catback Exhaust will not only look and sound good, but will save you almost 35lbs! over the stock Catback Stock Catback Weight is 44.2 lbs. vs. Tomei’s Ti Expreme Titanium Exhaust that comes in at an impressive light weight of 9.7 lbs!
In Conclusion Tomei + La Flama Blanca =
Drop Height Front: 1.0 in
Drop Height Rear: 1.2 in
Drop Height Front Metric: 25mm
Drop Height Rear Metric: 30mm
Spring Rate Front: 153-193 lbs/in (progressive)
Spring Rate Rear: 171-216 lbs/in (progressive)
This weekend we got a chance to install the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs. Eibach springs have supported innumerable race and championship winners over the last two decades. In series as different as Formula 1 and NASCAR, the winning factor is often chassis setup and tuning. When everybody has comparable power, the guy who wins is the guy who can put that power to the ground-and maintain his momentum through the corners. This is one of the many reasons we chose Eibach lowering springs over the other available choices.
WARNING: If you are unfamiliar with the ins and outs of the ST’s suspension system, please have a professional install these for you.
First, we pulled it into the shop and secured it on jack stands before we got started. Here are some pictures of it before the springs, and after for a comparison:
As you can see, it’s pretty close to the advertised 1.0 inch (25 mm) in the front and 1.2 in (30 mm) the rear. You can see by the spring rate specs:
Spring Rate Front: 153-193 lbs/in (progressive)
Spring Rate Rear: 171-216 lbs/in (progressive)
We documented the install so this thread will be pretty image intensive.
1) First things first, get the wheels off, so you can see what you’re up against.
2)This kit is about as complete as you can get with lowering springs, it comes with bump stops and dust covers and the springs themselves, as you can see.
The rear dust covers are in the sleeves and you can’t see them in this pic. But they are there.
3) Here’s a list of tool you will need:
-Sockets: 8 mm 10 mm 13 mm 15 mm 19 mm
-Flat Tip Screw Driver
-Wrenches: 17 mm
-½ drive ratchet and 3/8 drive ratchet
-Spring compressor (you can rent these at your local auto parts store, we happen to own a set)
4) Ok, now that we have all the tools together, let’s get started. You will need to pull the two t30 torx bolts out and the four panel clips out of the plastic cover that is above the strut mounts under the hood, easy enough:
You can see the bolts we need to get to hiding under there.
Here’s the drivers side torx bolt, there’s one just like it on the other side.
Here you can see one of the four clips we need to pull, all we need to do is slide a flat tip screw driver under the little recess that is under the head of it and gently pry it up and they pull out. Then we need to pull the rubber hood seal off to pull the plastic part out. We also need to pull the vent covers off to get to two bolts that hold the plastic piece that is under the top cover.
You can see here, the plastic piece that sits under the cover, there are just two 10 mm bolts that hold it on, take them out and you can easily pull this piece completely off the car and set it aside for now.
You can see the three bolts going through the strut tower brace here that hold the strut at the top. We’ll get to these in a minute, first, we need to work on the lower part.
5) We need to pull the accessories off the strut first, so, this bracket that holds the end link and the ABS wires was the first thing we pulled off. It takes a 15 mm in the nut itself and we had to put a 17 mm wrench on the back side to keep the bolt from spinning.
This bolt holds the brake line in place, takes an 8 mm to get it loose. Take it off and push the brake line to one side for the moment
6) Next on our list, is this bolt on the back side/ bottom of the spindle sleeve, take this one out and thread it into the opposite side of the hole
You can see here, we tried using just a standard screw driver at first, but it didn’t work so well, we ended up finding a flat piece of steel that we slid in between the gap and tightened the bolt down onto it and spread the gap open to allow the strut to slide out of the sleeve, you might need to step on the lug studs to push the spindle low enough to clear the strut.
Don’t forget to unplug the ABS wire. Just push the clip release and it pulls right off.
7) At this point, we just need to pull the top three bolts out on the top of the strut and it slides right out.
Now that we have the strut out, we need to get the stock spring off, to make room for our new Eibach lowering springs.
8) Place the spring compressors straight across from each other and tighten them down till they release the tension on the top-hat.
Once the tension is released, take the 19 mm wrench and loosen the bolt, the shaft might spin, so you might need to use a 5 mm allen wrench to hold the shaft while you take it off.
9) Next, we’ll need to pull the factory dust covers off this is pretty easy, they just basically pull of, they might take a little prying with a screw driver to get them started.
10) Now take the stock bump stop out.
11) Now we need to put the Eibach bump stop on the strut, it just slides right over the strut shaft.*
12) Next, just slide the Eibach dust sleeve right over the lower part of the strut over the bump stop. Now we are ready to place the Eibach springs on!
When placing your springs on, make sure they are properly lined up with the seats in the lower and upper mounts. Then, release the tension of the spring compressors and it’s ready to put back on the car.
This is a very important step, you want to make sure you place the strut top hat in the car with the notches facing the engine. Otherwise the bolts won’t line up properly and you will fight getting it back on.
13) Slide it up into the perch and thread your botls in. You can tighten these now, as the rest of the strut mounting process will be done on the bottom side.
14) Slide the lower part of the strut into the sleeve and tighten the 15 mm bolt down, now the strut is mounted, it’s time to re-attach the accessories.
15) First, we’ll bolt the brake line down with the 8 mm bolt
16) Then the end link and abs wire can be re-attached, remember to place the 17 mm wrench on the back side behind the bracket to tighten this one with your 15 mm socket.
Plug in the ABS sensor.
Repeat these steps on the opposite side of the car and the front is done, now, on to the back!
When I first started at the rear of the car, I was worried it was going to be a pain, turns out, the rear was the easiest part of the whole install. So, here we go. This is what we are looking to replace, just the spring in the rear.
1) Slide the jack under the spring perch and put a little tension on it so when you take the bolt loose it doesn’t recoil on you.
2) This is the bolt we will be taking out to get the spring out. It’s a 15 mm. just loosen it and pull it out.
3) Once you get the bolt out, just let the jack down slowly to release the tension of the spring and pull it out.
Here’s a shot of the stock rear and the Eibach lowering spring side by side, again, you can see the difference is pretty noticeable.
4) Here’s the Eibach spring in it’s new home. Now, we just need to jack the perch up and put the 15 mm bolt back in and put the bump stop in place and this side is done.
5) Here it is, installed with the bump stop.
Now, on this side, there was an issue, this is where we had to use a file, to finesse the steel on the mount to get the sleeve back in, it had a little burr on it and it took just a little bit of filing, chances are you won’t run into this issue, but we wanted to make you aware of it, in case it happens to you. This is a horrible picture, but you can see the left side of the mount, there was a burr on the bottom of it, preventing the bolt sleeve from going in place. After we cleaned it up slightly, it slid right into place.
We would like to thank Eibach for the support and for such a quality product.
RallySportDirect.com is in no way shape or form responsible for any damages or injuries that might occur during or do to the install of this product or do to the how to. This is a how to write up, that should be used in conjunction with the OEM manual, and should only be performed by a professional.
Okay, first I must say I feel bad for being so late to get this review and feedback out on the Tein Street Flex Coilover kit. I know there were a few people requesting it, so I tried to get this written up as soon as possible, and with that said, let’s move on to the review shall we? At this time I did not have a chance to really push this suspension in the way I wanted to due to the cold weather and crazy snow we have been getting here recently, however on my first drive I did note some initial impressions of the suspension in general.
First let’s start with the boring details of the install. From start to finish, we were able to get this done in about 3 hours, and that was with me taking my sweet time and enjoying the peanut gallery’s commentary while I did the install. Fitment was spot on with all of the ABS and Brake line brackets, they were right where they needed to be, which made for an OEM fitment, a huge +1 in my opinion. With the car being so new, all of the bolts came off with no fuss, and the new suspension went on like butter on warm toast. All of the adjustments are easy to get to, including the spring pre-load, height adjustment, front camber adjustment and damping adjustment, I could not be more pleased with this. Now, we did lower the car a bit more than what Tein had set for us right out of the box, but with some careful measuring, this was a breeze, even with the wheels still on the car. I always expect a bit of fuss with just about anything I do with a car, but to have these go on so easily, I almost feared that the car gods would strike me down when I went for a test drive.
Now comes the moment of truth. I double checked all of the bolts and nuts for proper torque, torqued the lug nuts, lowered the car from the jack, put on my big boy pants(which are actually just my clean pants in this case), kissed my Tein Dampachi doll for good luck, and rolled out of the shop. Listening for any odd sounds or clunks as I went lock-to-lock with the steering wheel, and there was nothing but the sound of my tires picking up some small pebbles from the road(more likely tiny chunks of salt and ice) and bouncing them off the fender liners. This is the time when you can finally ease down from being a paranoid, hypersensitive freak, to just sitting back and enjoying the ride, and I am planning on it.
First stop, Nurburgring! Well.. not quite, it was actually the local chevron to fill up the bone dry fuel tank, but close enough right? After some much needed liquid hydrocarbons, I was off for a real road test. I swung onto the freeway to see how the dampers did in a higher speed situation with some pretty decent sized bumps, and I was really surprised to feel just how comfortable these coilovers actually are. Now I am never going to say they ride like stock, as that would be a lie, but if you ever find yourself wanting a more out of the stock suspension, I really think you would be happy with the comfort level on these new Street Flex coilovers. The damping felt like a perfect match for the springs, they absorb small sharp bumps just as well as they absorb the larger smooth bumps, and they were doing everything quietly as well. I made a quick exit off the freeway just so I could jump back on utilizing a long sweeper turn which put me right back on the freeway in the opposite direction. Not trying to push these “summer only” tires too hard in the bitter cold temps, I was being pretty careful around the turn, but still managed to go fast enough to put a smile on my face. I could instantly tell the response from the suspension and feedback from the car was greatly improved, allowing me to feel what the front and the rear end of the car were doing at all times, and this made me a happy boy!
Knowing the direction I was now going on the freeway was taking me directly to some very nasty roads, I thought that this would be a great time to really test the comfort of these coilovers as there was no way I could really give a solid impression of their performance this time of year. The suspension had no problem dealing with pot holes, cracks in the roads, smoother washboard sections, or medium sized bumps. I was very impressed that they were able to handle themselves on these horrible roads, but I knew I was quickly approaching the big one, the mother of all bumps, the one that makes me cringe even in a bone stock car, and I hit it hard. I could feel the suspension struggling to absorb such an impact so quickly, which happily transferred that shock into the chassis of the car, and then directly to my spine. I winced for a split second, perhaps knowing in advance what I was about to put the car and myself through, and then it was over. Ha! That was it? I expected so much worse! Not that I would want to turn around and do it again, but that is about the worst, most worthless, car destroying patch of road I could find for miles around, and the car did fine! I quietly apologized to the little Albino Rhino, and petting its dash panel for what I had just intentionally put it through. I made a promise that I would never put it through that much abuse again unless it was strictly for fun.
The rest of the ride home was quiet and enjoyable as I was able to just sit back and relax and reflect on how far we have come with this car. One thing that has never changed is the looks that this car gets. I counted no less than 7 “thumbs ups” on my short test drive, and countless necks turning into rubber, with my favorite being the small boys who stare in amazement at this tiny little car with blue wheels bopping down the road. If for nothing more than my own amusement, this car would still be an amazing ride just so other people can enjoy it. Needless to say I am still enjoying this car very much and really look forward to where we are taking the Albino Rhino in 2013, I truly think you guys will love it!
RallySport Direct is extremely excited about our new group buy offer, the Crawford Air Oil Separator for the Subaru BRZ/Scion FR-S
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Group Buy Details
Closes on: Oct 17, 2012
Group Buy Price: $271.96
What is a Group Buy?
Simply put it’s a way for you to get products at a cheaper price! We work closely with our manufactures to bring you these one-off deals. We collect multiple orders for this item and submit one large order to the manufacturer. The savings then get passed down along to you. There are normally limited spots on the group buy, and it’s first come first serve.
We ship these group buy purchases all at once!
After our last bit of mods and video, we wanted to restore our BRZ to the fun car that it was. There was no denying that it was fun with sticky tires and springs, but it lost its ‘spunk’ so to say. We really wanted to restore the cars characteristics. That brought us to the next obvious modification, sway bars. Whiteline came through with their 20mm fixed front and 16mm adjustable rear. After installing them, the car came back to life!
Check out the in depth write-ups on the currents parts installed here, but we can all say that this is Ricks favorite mod thus far.
The Albino Rhino BRZ Suspension Test w/ Whiteline Sway Bars and Eibach Pro-Kit
The Albino Rhino BRZ Stock Suspension Test
I’m not going to lie. Looking at the engine bay in the BRZ is less than inspiring, sure it is clean and laid out well, but nothing in there really invites you to take another look, and I at least wanted to put something in there that made it pleasing to the eye. Enter the Cusco Strut bar with the built in Master cylinder Brace. Not only do I love the Cusco blue color, but I figured some added rigidity in the front of the chassis and the addition of the master cylinder brace would be a nice modification to the car all around. Installation was a breeze at worst, but to me, it was a pleasure to install this.
I think this was the first modification I have done to the car where I was not on my back, and elbow deep in grime.
This should have only taken me 20 minutes at most, but after dropping a nut to the strut tower bar on the top of the skid plate, and spending 5-10 minutes trying to fish it out, it ended up taking about 30 minutes to install, and still taking my sweet time. We hooked up a camera in the engine bay to give before and after movement of the master cylinder, and even in person it was amazing to see the brace in action, it truly minimized the movement of the master cylinder.
Now, just cruising around town you may never notice this, but come in a bit hot into a corner and threshold brake, it becomes apparent why these braces are in existence. The BRZ brakes never felt bad in stock form, but after adding the brace, you could feel that the brake response was better, and you gained even more pedal feedback, which is always a plus. Now I was skeptical that the strut tower bar would make a difference, but after cruising though the work “test course” the front end really did feel more… planted? I don’t really know how to put this into words, as “planted” is not right, but basically you can feel that the front end is less independent of the rest of the car, and just more “tied in”, if that makes sense. Don’t think this bar made a night and day difference, because I would never say that, but if you are looking for something to add a bit of shine to the engine bay, the added rigidity to the chassis, and master cylinder brace makes, this a awesome mod all around. This Cusco Strut bar would be something I would recommend personally.
I would like to see if this bar makes any difference on a bone stock car, but I feel like with all of the extra grip we have added, we may be able to actually take advantage of the extra rigidity. Overall I thought it was a fun install, a great looking bar, and did add some extra feel and feedback to the car!
I was really excited when Whiteline told us they had a set of sways for our BRZ, and no more than one day later I got an email with a tracking number. So I cleared my schedule the day they were supposed to arrive here as I was super anxious to get these on. As you may already know, when we installed the Bridgestone RE-11 tires, the car lost its “Magic”, meaning that the rear end was not eager to break away for you on command, but we did receive massive grip. In fact, the car had so much grip that I nearly had to see a chiropractor after our Eibach spring test with the RE11’s as the grip flying through the cones just forced my head to whiplash back and forth. Not that the raw grip is ever a bad thing, but I missed the way the stock tires allowed the rear end to be so alive, it would almost dance as you threw the cars through corners, and was just an amazing experience. So I was really hoping and dreaming that the sways would give us back that magic that the factory BRZ had… and it did!
First lets touch on the install, as this was the first time I installed swaybars on the BRZ, and I figured it would be like the 08+ WRX/STi’s and to be honest, it was for the most part. We jacked the car up in the air, took off the skid plate, and started to rip that tiny front stock bar out. I removed the nuts that attached the sways to the endlinks, then the 2 bolts on the swaybar mounts. The stock bar came out with ease, but getting the new bar in would not be quite as easy. After struggling with it for a few minutes, I decided we just needed a bit more room, so I removed the brace that connects the front subframe to the unibody chassis of the car, once this was gone and out of the way, it allowed the new bar to slide in with ease. I greased up the bushings, put them in the right location and put the swaybar mounts back on, then installed the front endlinks. LAst, I dropped it back on the ground and torqued everything down. Now onto the rear, which I knew was going to be easy, so I left it for last. Once I got the rear end up in the air, it was as simple as removing the endlinks, and removing the swaybar mounts. Everything is easy to get to and you have plenty of space to work. The rear swaybar was about the easiest thing I have ever installed on this car. All in all I would say the front bar took around an hour or so, and the rear about 20 minutes. Once everything was torqued, I cleaned myself up and decided to take the car out for a quick test drive.
There is a stretch of road near work that I drive on every single day, now I am not sure if the city/planners/engineers had messed up, but there is a long 45MPH stretch of perfectly straight road, which eventually makes it way to a very tight, sharp, and bumpy S-turn, and guess what… no reduction of speed, so you can blast around it at 45MPH if desired, and I guess “technically” not break any laws by definition. Now I know if a cop saw me take this S turn at 45MPH, I am quite sure he would give me a ticket, but at least we would have something to argue about right? So anyway, not only do you get this nice tight S-turn, but it is followed by a very nice and curvy 35MPH road which I always find to be a great stretch of road to test out any car. It has a few tight technical turns, some off camber corners, and some nice bumpy corners. Cruising down this road, I could not help but break a smile, the magic was back!!! I had the rear 16mm swaybar on the middle setting, where the front is a 20mm non-adjustable bar. This combination proved to be just the ticket to bring the craziness back into this car. No longer did I struggle to make the rear end feel alive, now it was as simple as tossing the car into a corner, and let that rear end dance around as I controlled the madness with my right foot. It literally made me giggle like a school girl and all my worries that we may never get that feeling back quickly disappeared with the faint sound of tire squeal. My mad car is back, and it is glorious! I would even go as far as to say it is better, as you no longer get the feeling like you are driving on all seasons with the soft sidewalls, instead you get the razor sharp precision from the stiff and sticky RE-11’s, but at will, you can make the rear of the car do your evil bidding, but at the same time, it just feels so right. Everything is at peace with the world now, as I have my crazy puppy dog car back, or should I say crazy, baby albino rhino? Either way, I could not be happier with the car at this point. Other than the power, it is everything I was hoping the car would be. If you ever find yourself messing up the awesome feel of the stock BRZ with grippy tires, do not hesitate to throw on a set of front and rear swaybars, not only will it reduce body roll, which is what I should have really focused on in this write-up, but they will bring the fun back to the BRZ, which apparently means the most to me! Now I am sure we will upset the handling again in the future, but fear not, I will fight tooth and nail to bring the lunacy back to this car, as I don’t want to take away from what made this car so special to me in the first place.
As always, please let us know if you have any questions.
Today Rick gives you a rundown on the parts we have installed on our Albino Rhino so far. We really enjoy how the car has progressed so far and we are excited to keep adding parts and giving you guys honest reviews on them.
Currently as the car sits it has the following modifications:
Apexi Panel Filter
Work Emotion CR-Ultimates (coated a custom blue)
Bridgestone RE-11 Tires
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
Whiteline Com ‘C’ Caster/Camber Adjusting Strut Mounts
PST Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Whiteline 20mm Front Sway Bar
Whiteline 16mm Rear Sway Bar