The Albino Rhino Receives Some Boost!!!!

For more photos and info click here: Vortech Supercharger Kit V-3 H67BC Air to Air IC Black Finish Subaru BRZ 2013 / Scion FR-S 2013

Well well well, so the little Albino Rhino has finally lost its baby horn! I can’t say how excited I was when we received the Vortech SuperCharger in for our Albino Rhino BRZ. First I poured through the box checking out all of the components, resisting the urge to run around the shop making supercharger/blow off valve noises, but I kept my cool. Really, on the inside I was like a kid at Christmas and could barely contain my excitement. I literally started on the install that very night and enlisted the help of a few chosen comrades, one for install help, and one for comic relief. With the team in tow, we set out to give the Rhino some much needed boost.


The install was very straight forward and I was impressed with the fit and finish of the kit overall, plus it just looks beautiful and proper in the engine bay. I was not keeping track of time, but I would assume we spent a solid 6-7 hours on the install, potentially longer, although it is hard to say for sure as I never bothered to look at a clock, I just wanted to get this thing boosted! The initial startup made my heart drop for a brief moment when we saw oil dripping from under the car. With thoughts of all the worst case scenarios racing through my head I could not help but think “this whole thing is going to have to come back out and even worse, I won’t get to drive it tonight…”  I don’t ever recall popping the hood, but I vividly remember looking down at an oil soaked By Pass Valve filter. I have never been so excited to make a dumb mistake! I cleaned the excess oil off the filter and off the floor of the shop and started it back up. Such feelings of accomplishment when you finally finish something you have wanted to do for almost a year, and as a plus everything looked perfect and sounded even better. It was time for a drive!


Pulling out of the shop was no different than any other time except one thing.. We have boost! Even at idle the car felt like it had a different personality, almost a new beginning for the car. We took it very easy at first, wanting to make sure everything was secure and running well. After a few low boost pulls around the area we pulled it back in to double check everything, re-check the oil level, and clean off the bit of hidden excess oil that still wanted to mist out of the BPV filter. Everything was spot on, I was getting the butterflies from excitement, and it was time to put it to the test. We first hopped on the freeway wanting to run it up to redline to check that boost was where it should be. Naturally I forgot to even look at the boost gauge, as I was having too much fun and needing to pay attention to redline and the cars around me. My very first impression was… “This feels like a fast N/A Honda!” and that would be the best way I could describe it, as it feels almost exactly the same as before, just much more, and it’s awesome! I know everyone says “this is how the car should be from the factory”, but it truly is in this case. The car was still very responsive, predictable, and a bit peaky in the power delivery, but we just get more uumph out of the little FA20, plus a noise that compliments the feeling very well.

In the lower RPM’s the car behaves much like a stock car would, but once you get into the upper RPM range, the engine just wakes up and propels you along briskly with a bit of noise. You don’t get the sense of speed or power like you do with a turbo, but instead you get a nice linear power band that is more than happy to accelerate you to law breaking speeds at a moment’s notice. Not that I would recommend doing that or anything 😉

Overall I am very pleased with this kit and the performance it gave our Albino Rhino. I was not expecting break neck acceleration from it, but I may have under estimated this kit a bit and was taken back at how it transformed the vehicle and the engine. For being a 100% bolt on kit, I could not ask for more, as this is something an average person can do in their garage over the weekend. I had assume that because we were using stock injectors and a stock fuel pump that there were not much, if any gains to be had, but the Vortech kit pulled through and left me with a huge smile from ear to ear. If nothing else, the sore face from my extended drive was well worth it.


Dyno Video:



Perrin Performance Now Available at RallySport Direct!!!

You guys have been asking for it, well RallySport Direct is proud to announce that Perrin Performance is now available and ready to ship at!

PERRIN Performance manufactures some of the finest Subaru, Evo, and MINI Cooper products on the market today. PERRIN’S full line of products hits every aspect of performance modification for your car. From suspension to engine performance, PERRIN makes the products which will boost your performance to the next level.




per2_psp_eng_400_1sl_1_lgper1_psp_inr_103bk_1_lg per1_psp_int_201rd_1_lg per1_psp_sus_234_2_lg per1_psp_sus_411_1_lgper2_psp_ext_335br_1_lg per2_psp_tks_852_4_lg

Wicked Big Meet 2013 – Matt’s GV WRX aka FLEX’N WRX


Everyone here at RallySport Direct wants to thank Matt (FLEX’N WRX on Nasioc) for letting us showcase his beautiful WRX in our booth at the Wicked Big Meet. During the planning stages it was important for us to have a customer car in our booth, and once we saw Matt’s BUILD THREAD we knew this was the one! The Attention to detail on this WRX is unreal, from the S206 Exhaust to the STi Push Start. This build started off as a WRX, but considering the modifications and attention to detail that Matt invested into this project,  it’s now a FLEXED WRX STi.






Engine (Rallispec):
– Cosworth Forged Pistons 8.2:1cr
– Manley 4340 H-Beam Rods
– King Bearings (main & rod)
– Nitrided Crank
– Subaru Head Studs
– Cosworth Headgasket

– KSTech 73mm Intake
– Perrin 3″ Inlet
– Blouch Dom 1.5 XT-R: 10cm Turbine Housing
– Process West Top Mount Intercooler
– Forge Bypass Valve
– TGVs removed
– Deatschwerks 65c Fuel Pump
– FiveO 1200cc Injectors
– Equal Length Header (wrapped)
– Grimmspeed Up Pipe (coated)
– Tial 44mm External Waste Gate
– Down Pipe (catless)
– Moroso Catch Cans
– Omni 4bar Map Sensor
– Grimmspeed 3-port Boost Control Solenoid
– Grimmspeed Ceramic Coated Heat Shield
– PTP Turbo Blanket
– COBB EWG Bracket
– Cosworth Air Pump Delete Plates
– STi Oil Cap

– 6 Speed
– Viscous Center LSD
– Exedy HDS1 Clutch
– Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
– Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
– Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushing
– Kartboy Pitch Stop Mount

– Racecomp Engineering Tarmac II Coilovers: KW Variant 3s to RCE Spec | Springs: Front- Hyperco, Rear- Swift 400/400lb
– Vorshlag Camber Plates
– Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
– Whiteline Roll Center/Bump Steer Correction Kit
– Whiteline Anti Lift Kit/Caster Correction Kit
– Whiteline Control Arm Bushings
– Whiteline Front Sway Bar 22mm
– Whiteline Rear Sway Bar 22mm
– Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Braces

– Brembo Gold Gran Turismo 4-Pot Calipers: Front
– Brembo Gold Gran Turismo 2-Pot Calipers: Rear
– Brembo Slotted Rotors
– Brembo Street Pads
– Goodridge Stainless Steel Lines

– STi Front Lip (extended ver.)
– STi Side Skirts
– STi Side Fender Badges
– STi Rear Fog Light
– STi Sport Muffler S206
– SPT Vortex Generator
– Gloss Black Roof
– Cusco Antenna
– LED Tail light Housing
– Headlight Amber: Black
– Subaru Emblems: Black
– 20% Tint

– STi Push Start
– SMY Gauge Cluster
– STi/Subaru Boost Gauge
– STi/Subaru Oil Temperature Gauge
– JCS A-pillar Gauge Pod
– AEM UEGO Air/ Fuel Ratio Gauge
– STi Shift Knob (200g)
– AM Ice White Pearl Shift Knob (671g)
– WC Lathewerks Stainless Lockout Ring
– WC Lathewerks Copolymer Boot Collar
– Subaru AV Panel
– Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS
– Audio Control LC2i Line Output Converter
– Kicker BassStation 10” Sub
– Misc: Scosche AP holder, LED Lighting

Wheels/ Tires:
– WedsSport TC105N 18×9.5 +35 | Gunmetal
Dunlop Direzza ZII 265/35

– RAYS GramLights 57Xtreme 18×9.5 +40 | Semi-Gloss Black
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 265/35

The OEM original Subaru/ STi parts are excellent quality
*The STi Side Skirts slip on, quality hardware, smooth and flawless appearance.
*The STi Front lip. 31mm extended compared to Vlimited. Same quality as skirts.
*The STi Rear Fog fits well and is beyond easy to install. Used as 4th brake light.
*The STi Oil Cap is nice, inlcudes allen for access to use a socket for removal.
*The STi Shift knob is leather and weighs in at 200g
*The STi Push Start button is simply style and convenience
*The Subaru Boost and Oil Temp. gauges are a perfect match to the cluster, responsive, and accurate.
*The STi Sport Muffler/ S206 Exhaust. STi engraved on all (4) tips, 3.75″ diameter. No competition… One fine specimen of exhaust.



Flexed WRX (GV) STi | Rallispec | BPT | RCE | Whiteline | WedsSport | 450awhp …


Make sure to check back for the 3rd and final blog post!!






Wicked Big Meet 2013 – Largest Subaru Enthusiast Festival!

RallySport Direct has been a supporter of the Wicked Big Meet for a couple of years now, but 2013 is the first year that we traveled from our Salt Lake City, UT Facility to Beautiful Connecticut to setup a booth. We want to thank everyone that came by our booth, it was great seeing old friends and making new ones!

We will be posting 3 blog posts about our adventures at the Wicked Big Meet along with a couple of galleries full of photos onto our FACEBOOK PAGE.


And now the photos:

Booth is up and running, crowds are already coming by to say hi and slap hands with us!



Time for me to sneak away and get some car shots…Starting with NASIOC Members rsutton1223 and Overland04’s Beautiful WRX’s



Next we head down to the Soobies For Boobies Booth…


Love this combo!


Have to show the Forester some love!


Some Bugeyes for your viewing pleasure….





Love this wrap!


So nutty!


Great color combo!


For when the Zombies attack, the owner of this beast will be a good friend to have!



So many subarus!!




2015 WRX STi has been leaked at the Wicked Big Meet……


Our friends from GT Spec came out in full force, here are a couple of their display cars:







From the PapaCustoms Booth


RSD Booth is getting a lot of love!!!



Still lots more people waiting to get into the show!


Spectators watching the Because Racecars!


Raffle Time!


Many entries for the RallySport Direct $400 Gift Card….


But unfortunately only one winner!


Couple more blog posts coming soon!!!



COBB Tuning Swaybar Sale at RallySport Direct!!

If you’ve been holding off on picking up a COBB Tuning Swaybar now is the time to pull the trigger, RallySport Direct is running a sale on the following Swaybars/COBB Parts:




COBB Tuning Front Sway Bar 25mm Subaru WRX 2002-2007


COBB Tuning Rear Sway Bar 25mm Adjustable Subaru WRX 2002-2007


COBB Tuning Front Sway Bar 25mm Subaru STI 2004-2007


COBB Tuning Rear Sway Bar 25mm Adjustable Subaru STI 2004-2007


COBB Tuning Adjustable Front Sway Bar 25mm Subaru STI 2008-2013 / WRX 2011-2013 / Forester XT 2009-2013


COBB Tuning Front Sway Bar 32mm Adjustable Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013


COBB Tuning Rear Sway Bar 32mm Adjustable Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013


COBB Tuning Sway Bar Kit Front Adjustable 32mm / Rear Adjustable 32mm Mitsubishi EVO X 2008-2013


COBB Tuning Sway Bar Kit Front Adjustable 28.6mm / Rear Adjustable 31.75mm Mazdaspeed3 2007-2009

09 10 11

Cobb Tuning Sway Bar Kit Nissan GT-R 2009-2013


Cobb Tuning Rear Adjustable Endlinks Nissan GT-R 2009-201313

COBB Tuning Sport Lowering Springs Nissan GT-R 2009-2013


How-To: Install cp-e Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this Rear Motor Mount directly from us HERE


First, let’s give you the rundown about the mount itself.

Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Color: Black
Durometer: 75A
Material: Aluminum

It is well known that the stock rear motor mount on the MS3 is a weak link and cp-e™ has chosen to think outside the box on this and come up with a completely new design. To do this cp-e™ carefully studied the layout of the stock MS3 Engine Mounts. While designing the side engine mounts it was determined that a better design could be achieved on the rear mount as well.

The way the Mazda engine mount system works is that the two side mounts provide a rotational mounting point, if just these two mounts are installed without a lower engine mount the bottom of the engine is free to swing like a pendulum. Now if you take the stock engine mount and put it in place with its horizontally mounted bushing and you apply some power, it will stop the engine from swinging but you are now stressing the bushing in two directions. These types of bushing are not really meant for this.

So cp-e™ came up with a way to stress the bushing in only one direction, by remaking both sides of the engine mount cp-e™ was able to mount the bushing vertically so now the pendulum affect of the engine is stretching or pushing in only one direction. This also increases the durability of the engine mount substantially.

To accomplish this two blocks of aluminum, starting at 15.81 lbs are slowly whittled down over the course of a couple of hours in our CNC machine to a final weight of 3.53 lbs. This process takes a lot of time but was necessary to give our customers what they want.

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 19mm, 17mm

Wrenches: 19mm

Torque Wrench

Jack, Jack stands, or lift

This is how your mount will come packaged. I am really impressed with CP-E and their attention to detail. Their product packaging is an obvious example of this. You know when a company takes time to package their products this well they really care about what’s inside.

When you pull everything out of the box you will be in awe at how badass this mount is. Everyone here was thoroughly impressed when I was opening ours up for the install. CP-E includes awesome color instructions, hardware, a sticker, thank you card and they even have an employee check off each part that goes in the box and initials. I am very impressed with their attention to detail. No one likes being in the middle of a project to find out not everything was included in the package. You won’t have to worry about that with CP-E.

This install is very easy and anyone can do it in less than an hour if you include time to get the wheel ramps or jack stands out and the car up on those.
Pull out your sockets, ratchet wrench and box end wrench.

Here is a shot of the stock mount before being uninstalled. Very easy to access all the bolts and no need to worry about supporting the engine when removing this.
Go ahead and pull out the 3 19mm bolts holding the mount to the transmission and the 2 17mm bolts that are left. Set your stock mount in a dark corner of your garage because you will never want to install it after the new ones in.

Prep the new mount by taking the long bolt and putting a washer on it before inserting it through the CP-E mounts.

This part is pretty self explanatory but slide the rear portion of the mount into the crossmember.

Go ahead and toss 1 of the 17mm bolts you just pulled out of the stock unit back in and set the left over one with your factory mount. Install all 3 19mm bolts back into the front portion attaching the mount to the transmission.
The tolerances are very tight and didn’t see starting with one bolt versus the other to really matter but you might have to put a little pressure up on the engine to line up a few of the holes before the bolts will go in.

Ensure you take the 2nd washer CP-E includes and put it over the end of the bolt before installing the lock washer and bolt.

Snug up all the bolts.

Grab your torque wrench and set it to 85ft/lbs and torque all 5 bolts down. You will need to grab your 19mm wrench and hold the head side of the bolt while you have the torque wrench on the nut side to get it to 85ft/lbs.

Here is the finished product. This mount looks amazing on the car!

I was a little worried about how much noise and vibration I would get inside the car with this mount but I am very impressed. There is very little at all. Getting in the car and starting it up for the first time with the new mount you can feel the engine starting which I love and then it purrs like a kitten. You will get a little vibration in your rear view mirror but nothing to compared to when I have the stereo turned up.
Pulling out of our shop I could immediately feel a difference. I had urethane inserts in the stock rear motor mount previously which were nice but this CP-E Stage 2 setup is completely different. Steering and gear shift feedback is awesome, much more precise and no jerky 1st gear starts because the engine is rocking with this thing. Previously shifting into 2nd or 4th was a little notchy with the stock mount and inserts but every shift now is super smooth and exact.
This is definitely one if not the first upgrade I would recommend on these cars without a doubt. Very easy installation and for the price you won’t regret how much better your car drives.

Enjoy this comparison video:




How-To: Install Tein EDFC Active on 2013+ Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ

Purchase the EDFC Active Kit directly from us HERE

Parts we used to install these on our Street Flex Coilovers:

EDK04-P8021 – Tein EDFC Active Controller Kit
EDK05-12140 – Tein EDFC Motor Kit M12-M14


EDK07-P8022 – Tein EDFC Active GPS Kit
EDK06-K4474 – Tein EDFC Strut Kit


Before I get started I want everyone to know that there will be many different ways you can wire this in. I found this method worked really well for me, but you may install it in a different way.

First let’s make sure we have everything we need in the package. Does it all look complete and in good condition? Yep! Let’s get cracking!

I decided to start with the EDFC motors as they are a breeze to install, and will be the same process on all 4 corners.

First we remove the rubber boot on top of the click wheel.

Now use the supplied wrench to remove the click wheel itself to expose the inner screw.

You can either use the click wheel itself or an allen key to remove the inner screw from the damper.

Take the new supplied inner screw and give it a dab of grease and insert it into the top of the damper and spin it down until it is flush with the top of the damper.

Use a small amount of the supplied thread locker around the male damper rod.

Insert the EDFC motor down into the new small screw(without threading the motor onto the shaft) and make 3 full rotations of the motor using a flat head screwdriver, this will allow for the proper clearance of the EDFC motor and the small screw to prevent binding when the motor is maxed out in either direction.

Once you confirm a full 3 rotations, you can thread the motor down onto the damper. Remember the front and rear motors will be a different size, so make sure you check before proceeding.
You will want to spin the motor down onto the damper until it stops, then make sure it is nice and snug.

Test the motor by spinning it using a flat head screwdriver. You want to make sure there is no binding and that the motor spins freely. If you do experience resistance, remove the motor, check for any damage, and repeat the steps above.
The process will be identical for all 4 corners, but it should go much quicker now that you have some experience under your belt.

With the wiring and placement of the Controller, Drivers, and wiring looms, you may install it different than I have, but I found this to be fairly simple and clean. *Note, make sure you write down the Serial Number on the Drivers in the note section in the instruction manual, as you will need to reference this when programming the control unit.
With the Tein EDFC Active kit, you will receive the 2 Wireless Drivers, and the Control Unit which all need a power (12V accessory) and a Ground. After searching in the trunk and the engine bay, I deiced to hook all 3 up to the 12V Accessory Plug in the center console.

Tein provides plenty of wire to run it up to the engine bay and to the back of the car, so I decided to mount the rear driver in the Styrofoam just behind the rear passenger seat. I did have to trim some of the foam out, but the end result looked fantastic and 100% hidden with the interior in the car.

I was able to run the power wire under the rear seat, to the power source at the center console. I grounded it using the control unit located in the driver side of the trunk.

For the front Driver, I located it on the driver side firewall just behind the fender and ran a single extension harness up along the plastic cowl and to the passenger side damper. I was able to run the power wire through the firewall grommet, under the foot well carpet and to the power source in the center console. I used the factory grounding point on the driver side front frame rail.

Now for the control unit itself, I decided to mount it just above the HVAC knobs on the passenger side. I did have to drill a small hole to run the wires into the dash.
I did not want to make the hole too large, so I de-pinned the harness plug, ran the wires through the dash, and re-pinned it.
*Note Make sure you take good pictures of the wire orientation before you remove the pins, so you can reference this when plugging the pins back in.

Use the supplied double sided sticky tape to secure the controller to the dash. Make sure you use alcohol swabs to clean off any dirt or grease.

Now let’s mount the optional GPS sensor. We needed to make sure there was not anything significant blocking the signal to the satellites, but I also did not want to have a sensor stuck to our dash, or the rear deck lid. I decided to see if there was any room under the speaker grill on the dash, and sure enough, there is just enough room to squeeze it in there.

This is also a great location for the GPS sensor as you can easily hide the wire by running it out of the side of the speaker grill, and down the side of the dash, eventually tucking the wire in between the dash and the door frame. Then run it up under the dash and to the control units wiring harness.

Speaker with GPS installed, looks OEM!

Now plug in the drivers, control unit and GPS and turn the key to “Accessory” to make sure the unit powers up and you can hear all 4 motors self-calibrating. Once you confirm everything is working, you can either use the pre-programmed settings, or you can dial in your own. We had to set ours up so that each driver was responding appropriately to the inputs on the control unit. It is very simple, but I would recommend following the instruction manual for a step by step walkthrough. 

End result is very clean, and you can only see the wires if you really look hard.

We did have to trim the rear carpet for the EDFC motors to fit.

I hope this was a helpful guide to get you started on installing your own EDFC Active Kit. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!


How-To: Install Coilovers on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase Mazdaspeed3 Coilovers from us HERE

Most of you have probably never heard the name Pedders Suspension here in North America. Pedders is an Australian based company that manufactures top end OE struts, upgraded replacement struts, high performing coilovers and many other suspension parts. They are very well known with V8 super cars and produce top performing parts. I can’t say I’ve seen anyone here state side using their coilovers so I really wanted to get a set on Yurtle and see how they did.

These are going to be 30-way adjustable damping and come with pillow-ball hats in the front that offer more camber adjustment than you will probably ever need. With independent ride height adjustability you will be able to adjust spring pre-load and ride height without compromising performance and ride quality.

The awesome part is Pedders offers a 2 year / 36,000 mile warranty!

For the Gen2 Speed3 they come with the following spring rates:
Front 7KG/MM
Rear 6KG/MM

Everything basically comes preassembled from Pedders out of the box which takes the guess work out of torque specs.

Very high quality and attractive front upper mounts.

I would suggest unpacking the entire contents of the box to ensure that all parts are accounted for.

If you have access to a lift this will make things much easier for you. Go ahead and zip the wheels off.

To start the removal process of the stock strut assembly you will need to pull the abs harness out of the 2 brackets – one on the strut and one on the vehicle, remove the clip holding the brake line and remove the endlink nut.

Carefully unclip the harness from the abs sensor and move it aside to a spot out of the way of your work area. To remove the front struts you will need to remove the 19mm on the back side of the spindle. Once removed the service manual says to tap the spindle with a hammer so that the strut comes out the top of it. They must use some magical hammer because it didn’t work for me. If you have one handy grab an air hammer and go to town until the 2 are separated.

Next you will grab a 14mm and pull the 3 bolts on the top of the strut housing which are holding the strut assembly in place. *Ensure you have someone holding the strut from below otherwise once all 3 bolts are removed the strut will fall and potentially cause damage to surrounding parts.

Here is a nice side by side comoparison of the front factory strut/spring assembly and the Pedders coilover.

After removing both sides you are almost ready to install the Pedders. Before you do that you will want to set them next to each other to ensure the ride height is adjusted equally, this will make it much easier to adjust the ride height after they are installed on your car.
Also note the unit on the right side and the bottom silver collar position. To adjust ride height you loosen this collar and spin the housing itself. You will not adjust the spring seat and spring lock unless you plan on changing spring pre-load.

Installation of the Pedders coilovers will be the same process for removing the stock assembly but in reverse. You will want to properly torque the Pedders unit to the vehicle with the 3 washers and 3 nuts they supply for each side

Once the Pedders are properly mounted into the hub you will want to torque the bolt on the backside to 54ft/lbs.

Reinstall the factory endlink and don’t forget to reinstall the ABS line bracket and reattach the abs sensor harness back into their original spots. Ensure you reinstall the brake line and clip.

Now that the fronts are done you can move onto the rear.

To remove the rear struts you need to remove the bolt on the lower part of the strut.

Remove the swaybar endlinks and swing it down out of the way.

Remove both nuts holding the upper strut mount and remove the factory strut from the vehicle.

To remove the factory spring loosen the inner nut and remove the outter bolt so that the lower control arm can swing down. Be somewhat careful since the spring is somewhat loaded and can pop out.

As with the front ensure that you have the length of the left and right rear struts are the same and go ahead and install and secure with the 2 nuts.

Next you’ll assemble the spring, spacer, spring seat, spring lock and the rubber isolator. The lower red circle is where the end of the bottom coil on the spring will seat in the lower control arm. Ensure you have the length of these units adjusted the same from left to right and reattach the lower control arm to the hub.

Once you’ve gotten the lower control arm reattached to the hub install the lower strut mount to the hub. This part is a bit tricky and requires some force to line up the holes properly. *Be very careful and ensure the bolt threads up by hand easily*.

Once you’ve tossed the wheels back on and lowered the vehicle you will want to roll the vehicle back 2 car lengths back forward back 2 car lengths and back forward before assessing your drop height. The adjustments pictured above will basically put you at stock ride height. After getting the car to the height you are happy with make sure you get an alignment done immediately and ensure that the locks on the springs and struts are all tight.

And here are the results for Yurtle who is currently on 18×9 +45 TE37SL’s and 245/40/18 Falken Azenis:

Thank You,