How-To: Install Eibach Pro-Alignment Rear Camber Arms on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase these Camber Arms directly from us HERE


Last week I installed a set of the Eibach rear camber arms. Since installing coilovers and lowering Yurtle a decent mount I’ve been running close to -2.7* of camber in the rear. With winter coming up quick I need to switch to a winter / all-season tire and don’t want them wearing unevenly. The factory rear upper arms are nice units but they do not have any adjustment so to be able to correct the alignment these Eibach arms were exactly what I needed with their adjustment range of up to +5* to -1.5*.

First things first, we need some tools. Here’s a list of all the tools you will need to perform this installation:

1) Jack or Lift
2) Jack Stands
3) 1/2″ or 3/8″ Ratchet Wrench
4) 17mm Socket and Wrench
5) Torque Wrench
6) Crescent Wrench
7) Pry Bar

Lets take a look at what Eibach includes.

Let’s get to work! You’ll want to get your car either on a lift or on jack stands before you start on this project. Now that it’s in the air, we can pull both rear wheels off to reach all the necessary bolts. Starting on the drivers side the arrow in the picture below is pointing at the stock upper arm and the circled bolt is the first 17mm you will need to remove.

Once you have the outter bolt removed, remove the inner 17mm bolt.

With both of the 17mm bolts removed you can pull the factory arm right out.

In order to ensure my camber in the rear didn’t get too out of wack before I could make it to the alignment shop I stacked the Eibach arm on top of the factory arm and put one of the 17mm bolts through both.

Grab your crescent wrench and use the largest nut on the Eibach arm to rotate the end until the hole lines up exactly with the factory arm underneath.

To ensure you adjusted it the correct length both 17mm bolts should slide through the holes on both arms without any force.

With the drivers side Eibach arm adjusted to length go ahead and install it using the same procedure to remove the factory unit but in reverse.

Moving onto the passenger side arm the procedure will be nearly identical with the exception that the inner bolt is a litte tricky to remove, at least on our 2013 it was. I assume this will apply to all years.

In order to remove the inner bolt you’ll have to get it to clear this shield.

To solve this problem I used a long pry bar against the arm to angle the bolt up just enough to clear the shield.

Once the passenger side arm is out I used the same procedure of matching up the inner holes with a 17mm bolt and adjusting the outter end on the Eibach arm to match the hole up exactly to the factory one and reinstalled.

Now that both Eibach arms are installed you want to ensure that you torque the 17mm bolts and the 13mm bolts on the arms to the proper specification.
The factory service manual states to torque all 4 17mm bolts to 57-75ft/lbs.

Eibach wants the lock bolt/nut on the arms torqued to 20ft/lbs but you can’t exactly get a torque wrench in there so just don’t try to overtighten it. It is fairly easy to reach 20ft/lbs with a ratcheting wrench.

Reinstall your wheels and ensure you torque your lug nuts properly and you are DONE!

Ensure you take your car to get an alignment done as soon as possible.


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