How-To: Install cp-e Nviscid Turbo Inlet Hose on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Turbo Inlet Hose directly from us HERE



For those looking to upgrade their inadequate factory plastic turbo inlet pipe and want the most performance possible, look no further. The cp-e™ Nviscid™ Pipe is without a doubt the optimal solution for both stock and GT series turbos thanks to its versatility, low-restriction design, and thermal insulation properties.

Turbos work most effectively when they have no restriction on the inlet side. The Nviscid™ Pipe poses the lowest restriction to stock and GT turbos alike because it offers a tremendous 3-inch cross-sectional flow area throughout. This is accomplished thanks to the pipe’s non-uniform cross-sectional area, which is made possible by the silicone construction.

The silicone also doubles as an excellent thermal barrier. Cold air is denser than hot air, and will ultimately have more power producing potential. To illustrate just how good silicone is at reflecting heat, it’s about 1000-times better at insulating than aluminum.

The pipes also come with slick details like steel wire re-enforcement to prevent collapsing under vacuum, it features all stock brackets and mounting tabs, and also utilizes steel inserts for cold air intake and bypass valve recirculation attachments. Now you can have a true 3” turbo inlet without all the normally associated headaches.

Both the GT series and stock turbo inlets will fit without any modifications to the vehicle, and come with all necessary hardware for installation.

This turbo inlet is for cars with a 3″ aftermarket intake and the stock turbo.

Part #: CPE MZR23NIPS3.0
Brand: CP-E
Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Piping Color: Black
Piping Material: Reinforced Silicone
Layers: 5

Another great product from CP-E, top quality packaging and manufacturing/.

The install on this is moderate to easy, there isn’t much more you have to do after removing the intake to get the turbo inlet off.
With everything you do in the engine bay on this car you’ll need to start off removing the intercooler shroud with a 10mm socket.

You can see here I’ve already removed the intake, battery and battery box. These parts are very easy to remove and are covered in the Autotech internals installation write-up I did if you need to reference it.

Remove everything connected to the factory turbo inlet.

This part is a little tricky because there is little space to work in. Go ahead and remove your factory intercooler by removing the 3 12mm nuts holding it down as well as loosening the 2 hose clamps, one on the inlet side and one on the outlet. This will give you more room to work with when removing the factory inlet and installing the new one.

This part is a little tricky because there is little space to work in. You are going to remove the vacuum line from the turbo inlet to the solenoid as well as unscrew the worm clamp holding the turbo inlet hose to the turbo inlet. I used a pair of needle nose pliers on the small clamps and stubby phillips to loose the hose clamp.

Factory turbo inlet hose removed exposing this tiny turbo.

Everything has been removed that needs to be in order to install the new inlet.

This shows how pinner the factory inlet is compared to CP-E’s.

You will need to remove the rubber bushing from the factory inlet for use on your new one. Remove the metal sleeve from the middle of the bushing and install onto your CP-E inlet. Install the metal tab on your inlet onto the factory stud and install the washer and nut.

Take the vacuum hose CP-E includes with the inlet and trim it down to the length you want because it is a bit too long out of the box. Reinstall with your factory clamps.
CP-E includes a new clamp for the inlet to the turbo but I opted to reuse the factory one which worked well.

Position the clamps on the inlet appropriately so that you can access the screw on them and also keeping everything away from the engine harness so no damage occurs over time.

Reinstall your battery box.

Go ahead and start putting everything back in the way you removed it and you are almost done. 
(Don’t mind the filter in these pictures it was a temporary unit until I was able to obtain the oil kit for the CP-E intake).

Now download the appropriate map from Cobbs website to your Accessport and reflash the cars ECU prior to driving and you are done .

Yurtle heads to the dyno
Stage 1 CP-E Nano + CP-E Inlet + CP-E Catback

Event: Dyno Tune/ Product Testing
Location: ZipTie Dynoworks, Salt Lake City Utah.
Ambient Temp: 80
Elevation: 4600ft
Effective Altitude: 4410ft
Weather: Sunny
Car: 2013 MazdaSpeed 3
Tuner: Cobb Tuning AccessPort
Dyno Info: Mustang
Transmission: 6spd
Gear: 4th
Peak HP Stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 239WHP Corrected
Peak Torque Stage 1 Cobb Accessport: 271WTQ Corrected
Fuel: 91

Engine/Power Modifications:

Cobb Tuning AccessPort Stage 1 + CP-E Nano Intake + CP-E Inlet + CP-E Catback



Unfortunately we didn’t see the gains we were expecting. I believe in part due to the temperature being very hot compared to the dyno prior and the facility did not have the proper amount of ventilation. This inlet is still a very highly recommended upgrade and I suggest everyone to put this on their mod list.

Here is a video of the dyno with the Stage 1 + CP-E Nano Intake + CP-E Inlet Flash






  1. EdmENsays:

    Can you please let me know if this fits exactly the same as the Stock Turbo Inlet Pipe? I have an INJEN CAI and tried installing a CorkSport TIP, the TIP was too low and wouldn’t fit. If this is the exact same height and lenth as the stock Inlet Pipe I’ll go with CP-E in a flash.

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