How-To: Install Whiteline Front Sway Bar on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this sway bar directly from us HERE

Description:

Whiteline’s 2 hole 27mm adjustable sway bar allows trimming of oversteer/understeer through varying the sway bars ability to resist weight transfer via increasing or decreasing the effective arm length of the sway bars mounting position. If desired you can even set one side at the “hardest” position and set the other side at the “softest” position to achieve your desired effects.

A bigger front sway bar will give the car more understeer where a bigger rear bar will give the car more oversteer.

Details
Part #: WHI BMF57Z
Brand: Whiteline
Return Policy: RallySport Guarantee
Mfgr. Warranty: 1 Year
Adjustable : Yes
Bushings Included : Yes
Mounts Included : No
Sway Bar Diameter : 27mm
Sway Bar Type : Solid

Definitely a little bit of a time intensive installation for anyone looking to tackle this one make sure you have the better part of the afternoon as well as a transmission jack to support the subframe since this will need to be lowered.

To get this project started it is best to have access to a lift to get the car up in the air and give you plenty of room to work with.
You will want to remove the longer support brace in front of the catalytic converter by removing all nuts and bolts circled below.



Set the hardware and brace aside in a safe spot.


Remove both rear subframe bolts and the bolts holding the bracket to the chassis.

Move up to the front of the car more and remove bolt of the 14mm endlink nuts.
**This car has low miles on it so I was able to simply remove these nuts with a socket and wrench. On older vehicles you will need to use a box end wrench and allen key to keep the endlink from rotating with the nut**



Remove both of the 17mm bolts which will release the sway bar on the top side of the subframe.

At this point you will want to toss the jack up to support the subframe before pulling the remaining support bolts out. You can go ahead and remove the exhaust hangers from the downpipe as well.


The next thing we need to do is remove the 2 front sub frame bolts. Here you will need a really long extension to get to the 2 bolts, they are quite a ways up and there is an access hole on both sides of the car through the lower control arm. These are going to be 17mm bolts.


The steering rack bolts will need to be removed so that you can pull the subframe down far enough that you can remove the sway bar. There are a total of 3 17mm bolts and you’ll need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the lines to the rack.
One picture that is missing is you will also need to remove the rear motor mount during this phase so that the subframe is not connected to the transmission.


At this point you can pull the subframe down while lowering the jack in order to get enough access to remove the front swaybar.
Same thing as with the rear, Whiteline includes 2 different sets of bushings. The larger of the 2 sets you will not sure.


Toss the lateral locks on the front bar loosely along with the new bushings and factory brackets and go ahead and toss it up on top of the subframe.

Line up the swaybar brackets and toss in the bolts to secure the bar to the subframe torquing them down to 89-120ft/lbs.


At this time you will want to tighten the lateral locks while you can still get to them. Center the bar as best as possible and install them 3-4mm from the bushing.


Crank the jack while lining the subframe holes up with the chassis.


Insert and torque down the front subframe bolts to 65-85ft/lbs

Reinstall the steering rack hardware.

Reinstall the remaining bracing and subframe bolts and torque to the correct specification.


Last but not least reinstall the factory endlinks and torque to 32-44ft/lbs.

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