How-To: Install cp-e Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount on 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

You can purchase this Rear Motor Mount directly from us HERE

 

First, let’s give you the rundown about the mount itself.

Mfgr. Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Color: Black
Durometer: 75A
Material: Aluminum

It is well known that the stock rear motor mount on the MS3 is a weak link and cp-e™ has chosen to think outside the box on this and come up with a completely new design. To do this cp-e™ carefully studied the layout of the stock MS3 Engine Mounts. While designing the side engine mounts it was determined that a better design could be achieved on the rear mount as well.

The way the Mazda engine mount system works is that the two side mounts provide a rotational mounting point, if just these two mounts are installed without a lower engine mount the bottom of the engine is free to swing like a pendulum. Now if you take the stock engine mount and put it in place with its horizontally mounted bushing and you apply some power, it will stop the engine from swinging but you are now stressing the bushing in two directions. These types of bushing are not really meant for this.

So cp-e™ came up with a way to stress the bushing in only one direction, by remaking both sides of the engine mount cp-e™ was able to mount the bushing vertically so now the pendulum affect of the engine is stretching or pushing in only one direction. This also increases the durability of the engine mount substantially.

To accomplish this two blocks of aluminum, starting at 15.81 lbs are slowly whittled down over the course of a couple of hours in our CNC machine to a final weight of 3.53 lbs. This process takes a lot of time but was necessary to give our customers what they want.

Here’s a list of the tools you’ll need to do this yourself:

3/8 ratchet

Sockets: 19mm, 17mm

Wrenches: 19mm

Torque Wrench

Jack, Jack stands, or lift


This is how your mount will come packaged. I am really impressed with CP-E and their attention to detail. Their product packaging is an obvious example of this. You know when a company takes time to package their products this well they really care about what’s inside.



When you pull everything out of the box you will be in awe at how badass this mount is. Everyone here was thoroughly impressed when I was opening ours up for the install. CP-E includes awesome color instructions, hardware, a sticker, thank you card and they even have an employee check off each part that goes in the box and initials. I am very impressed with their attention to detail. No one likes being in the middle of a project to find out not everything was included in the package. You won’t have to worry about that with CP-E.


This install is very easy and anyone can do it in less than an hour if you include time to get the wheel ramps or jack stands out and the car up on those.
Pull out your sockets, ratchet wrench and box end wrench.

Here is a shot of the stock mount before being uninstalled. Very easy to access all the bolts and no need to worry about supporting the engine when removing this.
Go ahead and pull out the 3 19mm bolts holding the mount to the transmission and the 2 17mm bolts that are left. Set your stock mount in a dark corner of your garage because you will never want to install it after the new ones in.

Prep the new mount by taking the long bolt and putting a washer on it before inserting it through the CP-E mounts.

This part is pretty self explanatory but slide the rear portion of the mount into the crossmember.

Go ahead and toss 1 of the 17mm bolts you just pulled out of the stock unit back in and set the left over one with your factory mount. Install all 3 19mm bolts back into the front portion attaching the mount to the transmission.
The tolerances are very tight and didn’t see starting with one bolt versus the other to really matter but you might have to put a little pressure up on the engine to line up a few of the holes before the bolts will go in.

Ensure you take the 2nd washer CP-E includes and put it over the end of the bolt before installing the lock washer and bolt.

Snug up all the bolts.

Grab your torque wrench and set it to 85ft/lbs and torque all 5 bolts down. You will need to grab your 19mm wrench and hold the head side of the bolt while you have the torque wrench on the nut side to get it to 85ft/lbs.

Here is the finished product. This mount looks amazing on the car!

I was a little worried about how much noise and vibration I would get inside the car with this mount but I am very impressed. There is very little at all. Getting in the car and starting it up for the first time with the new mount you can feel the engine starting which I love and then it purrs like a kitten. You will get a little vibration in your rear view mirror but nothing to compared to when I have the stereo turned up.
Pulling out of our shop I could immediately feel a difference. I had urethane inserts in the stock rear motor mount previously which were nice but this CP-E Stage 2 setup is completely different. Steering and gear shift feedback is awesome, much more precise and no jerky 1st gear starts because the engine is rocking with this thing. Previously shifting into 2nd or 4th was a little notchy with the stock mount and inserts but every shift now is super smooth and exact.
This is definitely one if not the first upgrade I would recommend on these cars without a doubt. Very easy installation and for the price you won’t regret how much better your car drives.

Enjoy this comparison video:

 

Thanks,

Tanner

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