How-To: Install Autotech Hi-Volume Fuel Pump Internals on a 2010+ Mazdaspeed3

Purchase this Fuel Pump Internals Upgrade kit directly from us HERE

Autotech Fuel Pump Internals
Lots of tools
Bench vise
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner
Clean rag/towels
Very clean spot on your work bench
E8 inverted torx – I picked mine up at the local Autozone

There is more than one way to get to the CDFP (camshaft driven fuel pump) on these cars. This is the route I took to get complete access to everything and it provides a clear view of everything.

We are going to be removing all of this to gain access to the fuel pump.

All the fuses will be identified on the under side of the fuse box lid. You will need to remove the large blue one shown as “Circuit”. Once removed you need to hop in the car, start it, and let it run until it dies.

Next remove the battery. Both cables require a 10mm wrench or socket for removal.

To remove the battery box you will use your 10mm socket.

Grab your needle-nose pliers to carefully remove all 3 clips on the front side of the battery box.

Remove the cover over the ECU by releasing the tab and pulling up. Once removed unclip the harnesses to the ECU and remove the ECU.

Be careful with these zip clips that you don’t break them. If you grab a super small flat head and stick it in the underside it will release the band so you can move the positive cable aside.

Do the same here to be able to unplug the mass air flow sensor and move it aside.

Loosen the hose clamp with a 10mm and unclip the top half of the airbox and remove.

Use your 10mm again to remove the bolt holding the lower half of the airbox and remove it along with the filter.

Your engine bay should look like with everything that has been removed.

Pull out gently on the tab in the middle to pull up and detach the wire loom. Once detached push it aside.

Using a 10mm socket remove the 2 bolts in the engine/intercooler cover and remove.

Depress the blue tabs on both sides and pull up on the breather hose to remove from the intake hose.

Using your 10mm again loosen the worm clamp to remove the intake hose.

Remove the nut holding the turbo inlet down with your 10mm. Using pliers squeeze the tabs on the clamp holding the BPV recirculation hose while pulling the hose off of the turbo inlet hose. Using needle-nose pliers squeeze the white clip holding the wire loom to the turbo inlet hose and push it through the other side to detach.

With your 10mm, loosen the worm clamp holding the turbo inlet hose to the turbo inlet.

Everything should look similar to this at this stage.

Remove both of these 10mm bolts and move the bracket attached to the wire looms aside.

You now have plenty of room to remove the connector on the top of the fuel pump and to disconnect both the yellow and blue fuel lines.

To disconnect the fuel lines all you need to do is think of the yellow and blue bands as collars that are holding everything in place. If you very gently spread both sides of the collars and lift up on the fuel line they will come right off of the fuel pump.

You will now want to disconnect the fuel line to the bottom of the pump. You want to be somewhat careful with this part.
Place a ziptie or a rag like me in the hole where the line comes up to the bottom of the pump. This will prevent the compression nut from falling down below.
You need 17mm and 19mm open ended wrenches. The 17mm will be placed directly under the pump to ensure that fitting does not rotate at all. Place your 19mm wrench on the compression nut below and break the 19mm loose while ensuring the 17mm does not move. Once broken loose you should be able to spin it down by hand.
In my picture you can see the line is still sitting in the fitting off the bottom of the pump. you’ll have to get brutal and move the line down enough to get it of the way just enough that the pump can be removed once we remove the 3 E8 inverted torx

Grab your E8 socket and wrench and you will carefully loosen the 3 bolts holding the fuel pump 1 turn at a time between each bolt so that it comes out evenly.
The reason to be very careful here is these bolts screw into aluminum and the pump is going to have a decent amount of pressure pushing on the bolts. If you take one bolt out then the next and then go to remove the 3rd you risk the threads getting deformed since there is only 1 bolt taking all that stress.

Once the three bolts are out you can remove the pump and place it on your designated clean area on your workbench.

Grab your pump and secure it tightly in your bench vise. Grab a deep 18mm 6 point socket and a breaker bar. Break the 18mm nut loose below the spring and retainer assembly. Remove the assembly from the pump. Once removed place everything on your clean workbench.

Pull out your Autotech internals that you picked up from the awesome guys at RallySport Direct .

Unpackaged, you can see the Autotech parts next to your stockers.

Pull the outter portion of your stock parts on the bottom out and push the shaft up to remove it from the other end. Ensure everything is very clean, at this point if you need to clean anything use your non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Get the shaft from the Autotech kit and lubricate it with engine oil. Slide it up through the bottom of your 18mm stainless nut assembly.

Grab the large outer ring of the Autotech kit and lubricate the inside with engine oil. With the larger diameter end going in first very gently slide it over the end of the shaft. DO NOT FORCE THIS. It should slide on very smooth and easy.

Ensure that the spring is correctly seated.

Get the retainer that came with the Autotech kit and place it over the top of the shaft and seat it all the way on the spring.

Grab the 2 Autotech keepers, ensuring that they are oriented correctly you can set them between the shaft and the retainer.

There is more than one way to seat the keepers to finish this part up. I was able to grab a socket the same diameter as the retainer and applied downward force very carefully to compress the spring enough that the keepers dropped in.

Letting the pressure off of the spring very slowly the keepers will seat and you are done with the hard part.

At this stage you need to ensure that your pump is spotless inside and out. Use a little engine oil to lubricate the o-ring on the internals assembly and hand tighten them back into the pump. Get your torque wrench and with the pump in the vise and with the 18mm you used to remove the internals you will tighten them down to 45ft/lbs.
The pump is assembled and ready for reinstallation. Use some engine oil and lubricate the o-ring on the fuel pump and complete the steps above in reverse order to put everything back together.

When reinstalling the pump you will tighten the E8 inverted torx bolts from 80 to 97 inch/lbs. Again be careful here and tighten each bolt with equal torque over a number of passes to balance the pressure across all bolts.


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